Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted October 21, 2021 Share Posted October 21, 2021 This thread has a little discussion on the rods used, might answer a question or 2. https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/16998-robb-gunther-and-karl-schuler39s-anvil-repair-process/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vinito Posted October 22, 2021 Author Share Posted October 22, 2021 Well I just completed another filling session. I'm guessing I've put maybe 100 rods on the sides so far. I dunno, that might be an overestimate, but the pile of stubs I swept up looked like about 50 both times. 1/8" rod... I think. Could be 5/32 but I'm halfway sure it's 1/8" rod. You'd think a guy would know these things laying it down for a while, but I just dove in and didn't care. Best I can figure I've added a little under 5 lbs. of metal so far based on cubic inches of 1/8" rod. Less than I thought it might be but not nuthin' I guess. I'll try to figure out the top surface thing eventually, but there's other things to beef up in the meantime. Making some progress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caotropheus Posted October 22, 2021 Share Posted October 22, 2021 Keep the pictures coming. We like pictures and videos, a lot of them from different angles. And we like details, what rod/wire are you using for the filling? Is the anvil standing on top of two big steel slabs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vinito Posted October 22, 2021 Author Share Posted October 22, 2021 I realized I didn't specify which rod after I clicked "save" but figured nobody was interested. Since I was wrong, it's an old case of Lincoln jetweld LH-70 which is equivalent to 7018. Verified it is indeed 5/32" and not 1/8" It's just setting on a little wooden crate for a table to work on. Here's a couple more snappers I think I missed a spot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vinito Posted October 23, 2021 Author Share Posted October 23, 2021 I cut out some steel filler pieces for the back and welded them to it tonight. There are 4 of them across the back which are spaced out to help leave the thru holes thru while also making for a guide for filling weld in between. Also aiding that is 5 brass bars fitting the holes to help keep me from getting weld into them mostly. I may have to occasionally drive them out maybe and then file or ream the holes to smooth them up when I'm done, but no big deal. These brass guards should help when I'm hardsurfacing the top one day too. I'll be filling more, but probably not until tomorrow. I'm just kinda beat for tonight. Might be obvious, but the brass is just the stock I have. They'll be shortened to useful lengths once I start needing them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caotropheus Posted October 23, 2021 Share Posted October 23, 2021 It looks great, you are almost there. The more bits and pieces you add, the more full penetration weld you add, the heavier the anvil will be and generally in blackcmithing, heavier anvil is better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vinito Posted October 23, 2021 Author Share Posted October 23, 2021 It's apparently an anvil. It's not fully baked yet, but it's adequate for some light cooking. Took it over to my brother's forge and tried it out. I'm blown away by how much better it functions than the makeshift rail track thing we used before. I'm giddy. Below is a pic of THE FIRST thing I've ever actually forged. I started by just trying a bit of drawing out some 1/2" round bar to a small taper so I could curl it. I was just goofing so didn't intend to make anything, but figured heck, it could be a coat hanger somewhere, so straightened it back out a bit so I could make a flat and poke a hole, then curved it back and chisel-cut it off hot. No big whoop and not a fantastic piece, but I'll be darned if I didn't make a little something. Did I mention I'm giddy? This is getting fun. First pic shows my brother roughing something out on my anvil. It works!!! It just gets better from here, right? My first ever thing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
USANewbie Posted October 23, 2021 Share Posted October 23, 2021 Nice hook Vinito. Blacksmithing is addictive, i get a little excited too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 23, 2021 Share Posted October 23, 2021 Not bad Vinito, a good first thing. The finial scroll should turn the other direction so it can't snag on clothing. A longer shank and two holes makes a more sturdy coat hook. I don't know about you but I own a parka that's too heavy to hang on a free standing coat rack. . . Unless you count the folded up treadmill that is. Oh yes, playing with HOT fires and beating things with hammers is more fun that most anything requiring clothes. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vinito Posted October 23, 2021 Author Share Posted October 23, 2021 I realized similar things about my hook Frosty. Thanks for the tips. Cool thing is, I can reheat it and get a little practice with tongs next time and save it. The edge above the hole is rougher than I like so I can smooth that out a bit too. I was trying to keep it simple and not get above my raisin, so I figured that hook was actually kind of a good basic thing to try for a first outing. The simple act of adding some tongs to it will be a new thing for me as well so that's actually cooler than it probably seems to you veterans. I just got done with another filling session on the anvil. I don't stretch them out too long because I get a little punchy after a while. I figure after about another 5 or 6 sessions that part will be done I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 23, 2021 Share Posted October 23, 2021 It's a good first hook, keep it as is and make the next one with changes. That will let you evaluate changes and track your progress. A change might NOT be an improvement and it's good to have something to compare. A wall hook doesn't need to be for clothes, there are plenty of things that hook is just right for. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vinito Posted October 23, 2021 Author Share Posted October 23, 2021 3 hours ago, Frosty said: ... there are plenty of things that hook is just right for. True. I could probably use a ton of these in the shop come to think of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vinito Posted October 24, 2021 Author Share Posted October 24, 2021 Did another fill session. One side is almost full and I started a little on the tail. Included a shot of my little work area, which is comfortable and keeps the dirt & smoke out of the shop. Also a shot of my cute little welder It's a sweet old machine for stick welding. The TIG attachment doesn't hold a candle to the new technology so I don't use it anymore, but the main unit is just fine. Must weigh 600 lbs., which might be an over-estimate but it sure is a beast. The duty cycle spec. in the manual should just say "much longer than the operator's duty cycle". Supposed to rain tomorrow so not sure if I'll finish this before the weekend is over, but I'll try to figure it out. Progress continues. Ain't exactly pretty, but it's full of weld... Hard to brush this out so you can't see much... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vinito Posted October 24, 2021 Author Share Posted October 24, 2021 I have a couple design questions for you experienced guys. I have the options of adding a shelf extension on the top face and an upsetting block on the base. Can anyone chime in as to whether those shelf things are desirable? I don't want to assume I want it and discover that in reality it gets in the way, or something like that. I could also put a couple bending pegs out the side or maybe all of the above? What do you think? Maybe since this anvil is relatively short (7" or so overall), the upsetting block won't be as useful as otherwise? I mean I haven't hardsufaced it yet so I could just add the stuff and try it out, then cut it back off if I don't like it before I do add the hardsurface layer maybe. I'm rambling, but any feedback is welcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted October 24, 2021 Share Posted October 24, 2021 I wouldn't recommend either at this stage. Wait until you have enough experience with actually using the anvil before you start adding too many bells and whistles -- you may find that they get in the way you like using the anvil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted October 24, 2021 Share Posted October 24, 2021 I have used an anvil with the shelf by the horn and found it to be in the way more than it's usefulness. An upsetting block at the base is useful, but a piece of plate on the ground is just as handy for upsetting long stock. For short stock I just use the anvil face. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vinito Posted October 24, 2021 Author Share Posted October 24, 2021 Great. Thanks guys. Probably a good approach at this time for me is to just keep things simple and not making this too frilly. Even on the bending pegs, I commonly see a hardie attachment for that which makes sense too. I'll just call this design "done" then and concentrate on finishing it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George N. M. Posted October 24, 2021 Share Posted October 24, 2021 Hardie tools are more useful than permanent, built in features because they can be put out of the way when you are not using them. You don't want to turn your anvil into a multi tool or Swiss army knife that does a lot of things but none of them well. It's better to have a dedicated tool or accessory for a specific purpose. "By hammer and hand all arts do stand." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 24, 2021 Share Posted October 24, 2021 Ditto George on this one. Bottom tools for dedicated uses are out of the way when you don't need it. I upset on the anvil often, horizontally into the step between horn and face. Depends on length. Keep it simple, you can make fancy stuff any time, trying to guess what you'll use later when you don't know how to use what you have isn't such a good strategy. It's a common practice though but best kept as speculation or mind trips. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vinito Posted October 24, 2021 Author Share Posted October 24, 2021 A tad more progress Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 24, 2021 Share Posted October 24, 2021 I think you should be using it. Grind and polish when your arm's tired. A way to know it's time to take a break or stop smithing is when you start making mistakes you had whipped earlier. It doesn't advance you to work when tired especially learning. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vinito Posted October 24, 2021 Author Share Posted October 24, 2021 I used it once so far and it worked great. I'm short a forge so far so I'm stuck hauling it over to my brother's (we've been calling it "Forge Friday") so I have nuthin' but time to work on the anvil until I scare up a forge of my ownie. So what if I had absotively nothing "whipped" earlier because I'm brand new? Keep on hammerin'? Taking lots of breaks while working on this anvil, if that means anything. I guess I'm practicing for the real fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted October 24, 2021 Share Posted October 24, 2021 Make a JABOD. All a solid fuel forge is, is something to hold a fire that lets you apply forced air to the coals. Another way to look at it is a forge is a hole in the ground, smart forges are elevated to a comfortable working height. You have a couple things pretty well whipped in your first session. Your taper is darned good, just a little practice and it won't be curved like a REALLY long football. That isn't a criticism, even a critique. That taper is very organic and will be perfect for vines and such. Yes? You also made a darned nice finial scroll, darned near as good as it gets. Next session make 3-4 hooks. If #4 wants to curve while you're tapering it you're arm is getting tired. Hmmm? Taper square, when it's almost there, forge the corners into an octagon then round it up. This is called "SOR" Square Octagonal Round and the way to draw steel / iron down with the minimum of fish mouthing. It's also more effective than trying to keep it round as you draw it down. Tired yet? Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vinito Posted October 25, 2021 Author Share Posted October 25, 2021 Thanks for the lesson Frosty. I'll do just that... but I don't know what you mean by "fish mouthing". Other than that I think I follow ya. I'm a fan of systematic approaches to learning, so your tips for my next steps is more helpful than you know maybe. I need to look at my hook again for analysis. One thing I do know is that I tapered the whole thing at once rather than what I've seen since then, which is to get the tip to size first and working my way back, so I did it backwards I guess. I'll keep at it and learn. I took a minute and weighed the anvil. It's up to 127 lbs. That seems like a great middle of the road useful weight and I'm pretty stoked about that. I think this anvil will serve me well. I'll look into building a coal forge. Safe, adequate (if not preferred) and not difficult to build - at least not for someone with my background I guess. The only thing remotely tricky is the blower. I'm sure I'll run across something for next to nuthin' that will fill that void. I can sure see the benefit of having one right here at my own house, i.e. my learning would happen tons faster with a blacksmith setup here at my own place. While using my brother's forge, I've noticed that it seems larger than necessary for the stuff we've been messing with so far. It's about 3' x 4' with the coal firepot in the center, but the bulk of the table seems to just be storing coal off to the side. I'm kinda thinking the forge table could easily be a 3' square and maybe even 2' square and still be quite useful for a long time. I'm leaning toward 3' square but at the same time my shop is already cramped. i suppose I could make sure it's covered well and keep it outside buildings since I have plenty of yard. I'll think on it for a few days. But fabricating something halfway decent and mostly complete should be a one-day project I think. Maybe another part of the next day to attach the blower and fan control or whatever. This is just all wild guesses, but based on experience nonetheless. I have a bunch of 11ga steel from which I could make the table, and if necessary some 1/4" from which I could make the firebox, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted October 25, 2021 Share Posted October 25, 2021 7 hours ago, Vinito said: I don't know what you mean by "fish mouthing". Take a look at this: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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