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I Forge Iron

Hammer and Anvil Making

Glader Gold Fire

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I'm assuming you want to make a shop sized anvil of 100-150 pounds: There's different ways of making them using different materials.  Of course it will probably be a LOT more expensive to make your own London Pattern Anvil---or very cheap to go with an improvised anvil.

If you cast the anvil it will need to be made from high carbon steel and you will need to use a custom foundry to do it---they my require their own pattern maker to be used, then of course there is the heat treating and finishing---probably run you about 5 times what buying a good anvil will.

If you weld up an anvil then the *face* needs to be HC; but the body can be mild---there has to be a full penetration weld between the face and body.

If you want to do a traditional forge welded face to body, the face still needs to be HC and it's a tricky weld to make!  SOFA did one as their Friday Night demo; they had several CENTURIES of forging experience in the team doing it and it still took 4 tries (IIRC) to get it done.  You will also need a team and equipment to move large chunks of steel at 2300 degF, safety equipment, forges, etc

Now the London Pattern anvil has only been around for a couple of centuries but the anvil below is a design that has been around for several thousand years, (This one is based on one in a Museum from Roman times:  Turned on it's side to show the mounting spike.) Smaller than most modern anvils; of course they were forging real wrought iron.


And of course making stake anvils from old sledge hammer heads is pretty easy too:


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When it comes to hammers. That depends on how they are to be used. For hammers that are to be hitting struck tools (top tools, chisels, punches, etc. You want a softer hammer than the tools struck, so not high carbon. For hammers used to hit hot steel on the anvil, I like 4130. It hardens reasonably well and tempers to a range of colors. Of course one can always use wrought iron and forge weld a steel face on.

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Just because it's medium carbon and can be hardened doesn't make track plates suitable for an anvil. Even using one as the face requires a full contact surface weld or the unbonded area will suck energy and effectiveness from every hammer blow.

Take a little time in the Improvised Anvil section for a wide selection of GOOD home build anvils.

Frosty The Lucky.

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I agree with Frosty.  I've tried for years to come up with a good use for track plates.  If it wasn't for the flanges on one side you could stack them together on edge with bolts through the holes to make a block anvil. Grinding the flanges off would take too much time, work, and money for grinding media.

"By hammer and hand all arts do stand." 

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