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Sorry Frazer, I get carried away sometimes. My last remarks about moving the building was supposed to be friendly funning but I worded it poorly. My bad.

I'm sure you wouldn't have worked on the foundation last if you had a choice. You aren't an idiot.  Frosty The Lucky.

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It's all good, actually, the goal was not to touch the foundation at all. All I was doing was building up a good base for the slab.. Perhaps I am just quibbling over terminology. If I were making any changes to the foundation, the process would have been more complicated with the town. 

I think your last point is still up for debate ;)

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I get it..  I never planned on making the demo trailer the item it is now..  One thing lead to the next.. 

Kinda the same thing on my shop..  I have a thing about doing the best I can do.. Which translates into taking the long route..  And waiting to save more money when things are out of reach till I can do it. 

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I hear you on that. Anything I start I always try to do to the best of my abilities given the numerous individual constraints that we all have. While our situations are very different as this is my first house and my first go at building a shop -- with my admittedly limited experience -- I'm doing the best I can to get myself set up properly. I'm also trying to get out of my dad's house while living within my means.  

"One thing lead to the next" could be the motto for buying a fixer upper and trying to make it into what you're envisioning. Fortunately, the unavoidable delays with the chimney have allowed me to take the long route on a lot projects in the house. Maybe not as much with the garage floor, but all things considered I don't think I cut any corners that will be detrimental to it in the end.

--

I got 50' of #5 rebar in and the mesh is down. Concrete will be poured this morning.

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Ha, I agree. It will remain relatively clean for the next ~20 days so I can put down some sealer. After that I'll start the blacksmithifcation process. 

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I ended up going with Consolideck concrete protector SB.  

It probably isn't necessary to seal it at all, all things considered. Still, I figure it can't hurt. 

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I still have a picture of my shop after it was newly finished.  Now you can't see anything that was in the original picture, except parts of the floor and window!

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Boy was I ever happy when my electrician said we could run the conduit up near the roof and just drop down connectors to go to outlets at 4-5' off the floor.  Means I didn't have to unload the shop and then reload it!  Of course once I have electricity I'll need to move everything around anyway...but it can be done piecemeal.

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Arkie, give me 2 months or so. You'll hardly recognize the place.

TP, In the end it was essentially that logistical concern that led me to do the floor now. I knew it needed to be done at some point, but it's much easier to do it now -- before I move all my stuff in -- than it would be down the road. In the second case I would need to pull everything out, store it somewhere that is secure (covering with a tarp and tying it to the deck out back with a Gordian Knot doesn't count) and then move it all back in again. Do-able, but not ideal. I'm glad you were able to avoid the hassle. It's much easier to move things around one at a time at your leisure vs a full unload on a project timeline. 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Mail call!

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Installation is scheduled for May 27th. It took 5 months to get here, but at least I'm in the home stretch. Very exciting.

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Congratulations!   

The electrician stopped by yesterday evening.  Had the formal quote for us.  I had allocated 10% overrun from the informal quote; but it was 20% + tax.  There goes everything I had saved for LG parts + my "allowance" for the next 4 months! (No scrapyard visits for me!)   On the other handThey will start trenching Wednesday!

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I'm not surprised by a 20% increase.. Prices are certainly on the rise. I hope they will readjust and come back down, but it might take a little while so I won't be holding my breath. 

Oh yea, no more scrapyard visits for you. Perhaps a few trips to the "store" to get some "milk" though...? ;)

That's great though. I hope you won't end up in the hole by the end of the project!

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I'm already in the hole; I'm just hoping it's not filling with water faster than I can bail!

The rise in prices is why we decided to go ahead as we expect it will be over a year before it drops due to supply chain issues and pent up demand.

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I popped in my local big box store last week and in a big display at the entrance was a big stack of Advantech 4'x8' sheet lumber.  Price:  $71.  A short while back it was $25/sheet. 

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Ayup, lumber is 3x$ and going up with demand and inflation.

I am sooooo happy I don't have any building projects on the books!

Frosty The Lucky.

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It's not just lumber either. I picked up a 4' x 8' sheet of 16g HR for the hood and it set me back about $260 after tax. Pricey.

Ah well, complaining isn't going to bring the price down. On the bright side, the hood is almost done. I still have some more welding to do, one more part to make, and then cleaning off all the spatter, but it's more or less together. I left a few apprentice marks, but not bad for cutting everything out with an angle grinder. If it weren't a hood I'd give it a once over with some paint and my welds might even be taken for passable.

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How to cut a circle with an angle grinder..

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Me too, I'll be claying it one of these days (before it gets used). 

I would honestly prefer if it were painted. I'll talk to the company installing the chimney and see what they think about coating it with some high temp (1200F) spray paint.  The hood will never get that hot so I don't see any reason why I shouldn't. Still, I'll defer to their opinion before I paint anything.

I finished it today. Turned out pretty nice IMHO. We'll see how it works. The opening over the firepot is 7.75" x 9".

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I'm not much of a welder and I didn't have a good way of holding these pieces together while stopping them from warping. I also knew that because I was cutting everything with an angle grinder the fit between all the parts wasn't going to be perfect. So I made a frame from 3/4" angle iron and welded all the panels to that. The angle iron bridged some of the gaps without compromising the final dimensions. It actually worked out better than I expected.

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Looks great..  

I just use gloss Rustoleum in the oil based variety.. 

Reasonably priced and looks good on all  equipment. 

There is a stove paint you could use and it does stand up to temperatures better than Rustoleum..   But, with this I just grind off the paint some and put on another coat. 

The stack in the trailer was made originally in 2003 IIRC..  i used 1/8" for durability and have remodeled it 2 times since the original build.. 

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The guys who service our stove and sweep the chimney give our stove and slip joint a fresh coat of paint every time they're out. The stove surface hits 400f+ when it's rolling and the paint stays shiny for some time. Cat hair and house dust tend to bake on and dull the paint but I've given up trying to clean the dust stuff off after it's been baked on.

Automotive header paint comes in a number of colors if you'd like some flash and it's not going to be effected on your forge hood. B) 

Frosty The Lucky.

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