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I Forge Iron

First fire test on my new gas forge


kniven

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32 minutes ago, Glenn said:

Should the main fuel be coming into the T and then going out of the 2 branches for a better pressure balance?

That sounds logical, don’t know why I didn’t think of that.

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40 minutes ago, Mikey98118 said:

 

Flashback into a burner's mixing tube makes a distinct sound; I hear it in your video. turn up the gas pressure, and see if that solves the problem.

Thank you, Im planing to do some reading about burner tuning. Thats a good start :)

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Are they Devil Forge burners?

I would replace the worm-drive hose clips with 2-eared "O" clips. I am slightly (?) anal about it and use 2 of them at 90-degrees to each other. You squeeze up the ears on the O-clips with end-nips. The worm drive ones tend to drag the hose to a sort of D-shape and are more prone to leakage at the corners of the D in my experience (and yes I did use the recommended size).

If you are using parallel-threaded fittings, use a good anaerobic pipe seal. 

As said above, you may need quite a lot more pressure to overcome burn-back up the burner tube. Moreso when you open up the chokes for higher flame temperatures.

 

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One burner burning back rather than both tells me you need to turn the T fitting so the lines to the burners are opposite each other. Connected as shown the gas will deliver more fuel to the burner in line with the supply line so the one connected at 90* will receive less. Putting the supply on the 90* leg will equalize pressure and delivery to both burners.

Ditto Mike, turn up the psi. 

And ditto Tim, those are not particularly safe clamps, they do leak more often than the spring clamps described by Tim.

Frosty The Lucky.

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17 hours ago, kniven said:

Yes they are devil forge burners, thanks for the ideas. Will check if we have those Clips here in Sweden. 

Well, if they don't, a little bit of gasket sealant, on the barbed ends of hose fittings, should make a nice end run around gas leakage.

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Dear Kniven, a nice box forge, given its size well heated with two professional burners, maybe a little overkill.
Apart from the hose connections whose density you can check with soapy water, the rubber hoses are very close to the burners and the creeping heat after the burners have been turned off can still affect them. The burners are also aimed directly at the workpiece and you will soon have to deal with a load of mill scale caused by the oxygen that the burners drag through the venturi. My reason for choosing a vortex operation of the burner(s) in the forge chamber. Also look at the dragon's breath and the loss of a lot of energy as the forge is still open on both sides. finally, the 9kg gas cylinder will freeze  with two burners and the flow rates called off. All in all lessons that I have been confronted with in recent years and that I have tackled piece by piece. I also agree with the advice of my colleagues regarding pressure and distribution of the gas supply. Either way you will get a nice glowing blank from the forge that is easy to forge. The rest is 'progressive insight' and a learning process. Cheers, Hans

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1 hour ago, Hans Richter said:

Dear Kniven, a nice box forge, given its size well heated with two professional burners, maybe a little overkill.

Thanks for the lengthy reply with a lot of good advice!

maybe I can switch the hoses close to the burner for metal pipes. And for doors I’m planning to use bricks.

I realise it’s not an optimal forge, I found this website after I already built the forge so I missed out on a lot of great information. It’s been a trend for me during this build not knowing what I’m doing hehe.

But I hope I can learn from my mistakes and build a better forge in the future. Right now I’m  just really exited and want to try hitting some metal with a hammer. 

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