Back to personal preference again: I like my peens, cross and straight, large and smooth; my favorite straight peen looks like a 1" dia rod welded onto the hammer and I use it along with an anvil horn to draw in 1 dimension.  However I also have a narrow peen that I use for ornamental work like ginko leaves.

I know other smiths here like smaller peens for all their work which is great---makes the large peen hammers cheaper and more abundant at the fleamarkets!

And after *many* years I have finally picked up a diagonal peen sledge.  As soon as I have electricity in the shop I will dress it and handle it and see if it helps when striking. I remember at a SOFA meeting one smith took a commercial square face double face single jack and heated it up and put it in a hydraulic press on a 45 and in two bites per face made a double diagonal peen hammer with alternating directions.   Using a head that had the flats on the corners already and it was rather trivial to get a beautiful result.

Thanks Thomas. Ill try out some forging with it this week. It might be good as it stands, but if I have some trouble Ill definetly shoot yall a message. Thanks!

I'm not online on weekends; but hope to be back on Monday (Just had to point out to my Boss that I have been working in my office and not from home because I don't have internet access from home!)

Lol

if you can mount it solidly at the right height im sure it will feel a lot better and help you on your learning curve.

another option perhaps for the future might be to flip it 90 degrees clockwise ( as viewed from the first photo) and then build a base to hold and support it solidly. the working face would be smaller but it would have more mass under the hammer and you would also be able to use the round section as a horn for drawing out.

for now the big wide surface will help you to position the work and not be dropping things all the time whilst learning. 

 

Thanks, that is a great idea!

Ok, here is a report back. I havent dressed the hammer yet, but I did a test someone mentioned. I set piece of wood about 1/4 inch thick on the anvil. A gave it a whack (like I would when forging), and there was a nice circle in the wood. It feels comfy too (before the picture it was a foot tall, made my back hurt). I also like the peen, it works nice. Now I have got a question. So as you can see the hammer has a plastic (I think) handle. Most blacksmith hammers I have seen have a nice wooden handle that is contoured to the hand of the weilder. I am pretty happy with my hammer head, but I dont know if a wooden handle is better. Is it a good idea to remove the current handle and buy wood? Any advice? (I know that this is an anvil thread, so sorry about that) God Bless

Just on the other side of the intersection from Walmart in fargo is a Harbor Freight on Main Ave.  They have a  2 Lb. Hardwood Engineer's Hammer for under $6. Plus you can get a 20% off coupon on line.  They also have a 3# cross pein for under $9 which I think would be too heavy for a beginner.  Both have wooden handles.  

The 2# hammer has 2 faces so you can practice your dressing skills.

Why remove and replace the plastic handle? Use it to compare plastic to wood and make your own decision.

While your there pick up some safety glasses, a full face shield, and some ear plugs.  It will save you a trip later.

Don’t forget about the ball pein hammers, Glenn. 

Another gem are the long needle nose pliers that can be quickly modified to make a sevisable set of light tongs. 

 

Ill make sure to pick up a ball peen. 16 oz or 32 oz? And also, can you tell me more on the needlenose tongs. Right now I use standard pliers, which dont really work to well. Thanks!

Ball peen hammers can be cheaply sourced from flea markets or yard sales.  

Ok, sounds good.

I happily pay US$1 for a decent sized ball peen, may go to $2 for a huge or hand forged one. Dealers keep telling me that you can't find them for that; but I'm working on my third 5 gallon bucket full bought that way. Traded one bucket off for some steel I needed and I'd take one to Quad-State and double my money on them.  A lot of beginners like to make hawks from them and so my classes use up some too.  Of course I am usually buying just the heads.  Not a problem when they will be going in the forge and so need re-handling anyway.

BTW being "stuck" at home is a great time to make handles and rehandle hammers that need it.

3 hours ago, Daniel95 said:

16 oz or 32 oz?

Yes... and heavier if you can find them.

Ok. Thanks!

Here it is. It isnt perfectly dressed, but hopefully it is properly dressed. Sorry, the lighting isnt the best.

Need a photo from the side at 45 and 90 degrees please.

24 and 32 oz

As to long nearly nose, You have to cut the tip and adjust it the ones with a 90d bend are nice to modify as well. This is only good for small/thin stock

Thanks Charles. I can see how those would work well.

Here you go Glenn:

Sorry, My phone camera isnt the best.

I would say it needs more work.

Ok. Thanks for letting me know. Do I need to keep sanding where the flat meets the curve?

Use the clay or mud method for testing the right curvature.

Ok, that sounds good.

There's some stickies in the hand hammer forum that would help you get a better idea of hammers in relation to blacksmithing.

Pnut