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How high should my anvil be roughly?

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I’m just getting into blacksmithing and was making a stand for my little RR anvil. I was just curious how tall I should make the stand. I’ll post a pic later of how it is currently, but I was just wondering if there was kind of a standard to shoot for.

  • Author

Thanks, appreciate the help!

7 hours ago, Irondragon Forge & Clay said:

Also look around a little. This thread address you question.

https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/40341-anvil-height-how-can-you-tell-if-it-is-the-right-height/

 

Party pooper ... :)

That thread about anvil height, never mentioned that for the one given blacksmith, and one given anvil the ideal height depends of the job at hand. of course once you build your stand you are sort of committed to the one height so you tend to believe that is the one and only height. 

I agree with the wrist height folks, however ... if it is winter and you have your heavy boots and triple socks on, or if it is summer and you have your tennis shoes on, your own heights can vary as much as an inch, ( I suppose ladies don't forge in heels :) ) so ... there goes the wrist height theory.  

I always played with the idea of building a tripod for another anvil that has one car jack in each leg. A Toyota screw car jack upside down would be ideal, cheap and sturdy. After all, the leg only takes the weight, and the strike even from a sledge is taken mostly by the mass of the anvil. 

 

Use this on all my anvils works fine. But allready shown in the post Marc mentioned. Good luck.

Anvil hight.jpg

2 hours ago, Marc1 said:

That thread about anvil height, never mentioned that for the one given blacksmith, and one given anvil the ideal height depends of the job at hand. of course once you build your stand you are sort of committed to the one height so you tend to believe that is the one and only height. 

I wonder if you could outfit it with a barber chair type thing :ph34r: Jack it up with your foot. Would be super convenient. 

I can't even walk in high heels. I cannot imagine forging in them.

Several anvils at different heights would be a stellar answer to that. That being said, mine is set to  about the middle of my knuckles and wrist. 

Ha ha, yes, that would be something. I have no idea since I never worked on an adjustable stand, but adjustment would be an occasional event that does not need to be instant. That why I thought a screw jack on each leg would be just fine. Hook up the handle and wind each leg up or down is a matter of a minute. 

If I ever build it I will be posting pictures for sure :)

Since I teach I try to have a number of different height anvils around to meet student needs.  The ones for the 6'4" student and the 5' student see the least use...

Easiest way to lower an anvil is to stand on a platform.  

If the anvil is adjusted often, build a box, fill it with sand, and then add or subtract sand between the base of the box and the bottom of the anvil. 

Usually one fellow working with one anvil sets the anvil at a convenient height for them.  Depending on the project it may need to be adjusted for that project, and then returned to the original height.  If they make those projects on a regular basis, then two different anvil stands will solve the problem or two different anvils.

Jymm Hoffman (PA) used wooden clogs, with horse shoes nailed to the bottom as ware plates, when in his blacksmith shop. 

Everybody just needs more anvils! I have three and I wouldn't mind them having more friends. This makes me think I may set up the old Vulcan for my little nephew. Or put him on a platform. Thanks, that sparked an idea

16 hours ago, CrazyGoatLady said:

outfit it with a barber chair type thing 

If only I would have thought of that when my wife retired and sold off all her beauty salon equipment. The chair bases were heavy with very sturdy 30 inch round footprint, and a large hydraulic cylinder to adjust the height.

Too bad! Y'all reckon it could really work? I like Marc1's idea and the one pictured above

Here is one we use, this was a prototype, better if two legs were facing to rear, and one under the horn

2083788731_Adjustableheightanvilstand.thumb.JPG.a25a06b3ad8b4eb60efe4973b5a7af5d.JPG

  • Author

Thanks everyone for the tips and suggestions! I think I have it a little high at the moment. May have to take about 2 inches off. Although I was considering just burying the bottom since I’ll be working on gravel/dirt. Not sure yet. Got to figure out how to get some holes in the dang thing first lol. RR tracks aren’t very easy to drill..

 

No and not easy to cut down either. I have one we started trying to cut and it's still sitting there intact

5 minutes ago, CrazyGoatLady said:

Well that's pretty slick

They have proved useful, the inside support legs also have holes drilled in which give a height adjustment in 1/2" increments.

Also made some portable leg vise stands to use at shows or in the workshop, bottle screw at rear allow adjustment if floor not flat.

Portable leg vice stand (2) - Copy.JPG

10 minutes ago, 0Dustin0 said:

May have to take about 2 inches off. Although I was considering just burying the bottom since I’ll be working on gravel/dirt.

Before you do anything, build a platform that increases YOUR height in relation to the anvil and try it out for say 40 hours of hammer time.  Digging a hold for the legs is an easy fix. You can always adjust the depth of the hole.

Best to be sure that is what you want before you start cutting.

  • Author
7 hours ago, Glenn said:

Best to be sure that is what you want before you start cutting.

Good point. I’ll come up with something. Should have some plywood around somewhere to make a little stand.

8 hours ago, John B said:

Here is one we use, this was a prototype, better if two legs were facing to rear, and one under the horn

Seems like that would be hard to adjust though. How heavy is that anvil?

20 hours ago, Hans Richter said:

Use this on all my anvils works fine. But allready shown in the post Marc mentioned. Good luck.

Anvil hight.jpg

The picture seems to show a half open hand like when holding a hammer and a fully stretched arm and the person is standing up like a soldier that has seen the sargent coming in. No one forges that way. Increase the hight by 3 to 4 inches. 

For me anyway 

And no sargents please ... :)

The old "knuckle height" seems to have been more common when used with strikers and top tools. Few of us have those luxuries these days or tend to work as heavy a stock by hand.  I find for smaller "precise" work wrist height works better----less back strain.  Of course my striking anvil is lower.   Finding the height that allows you to do your best work for the longest time is the goal; not to try to fit yourself to someone else's methods.

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