June 18, 20196 yr I need to make a metal cutting tool (a reamer). So it needs to be as hard as it can be. The question is: should I temper it after quenching? The steels I have for the reamer are O1 and 5160. It's for a one time job, and needs to cut annealed steel. Thanks,
June 18, 20196 yr Yes. If you're reaming a hole in metal, you're putting some significant twisting force on the reamer itself, and a hardened but untempered tool could snap.
June 18, 20196 yr If being used to cut annealed steel I would certainly temper the new tool to avoid brittle breakage. The free online version of Machinery's Handbook will likely give you good guidance, but I don't have time to research it for you: http://www.woodworkslibrary.com/repository/machinery_handbook_for_machine_shop_and_drafting_room_1914.pdf
June 19, 20196 yr Author Thanks all. Laticinno - that book is AMAZING! G-son - First, I have never done this, so my plan is no more than hope. That said, the plan is to turn the reamer on a lathe to the general shape. Cut longitudonal grooves (with a Dremel), leaving several "blades". File the top of those blades at a slight relief angle, except for a narrow strip at the cutting edge. and finaly harden and sharpen with a stone.
June 19, 20196 yr Serious question: given how much work is going into that, might it be a better use of your time and money to simply purchase a reamer? Or is what you want not available/too expensive where you are?
June 19, 20196 yr Yes the Machinery's Handbook has been around forever and was once an essential reference for any machinist, metal worker or mechanical engineer. I think it has made it up to a 30th edition at this point, but I have an old hardcopy of the 14th, and the information within is still very relevant (particularly for low tech blacksmith work).
June 19, 20196 yr Author 3 hours ago, JHCC said: Serious question: given how much work is going into that, might it be a better use of your time and money to simply purchase a reamer? Or is what you want not available/too expensive where you are? Two parts answer, and it too is serious: 1. Those of us that blacksmith for a hobby, could also find a more productive use for their time and money. But the chalange and the joy of making, are my (our?) reward. Same with the chalange of making a reamer. 2. The reamer is of special shape and not available. But it is needed for a project that is "only" for fun. So back to 1.
June 19, 20196 yr A special shape? Any rotating cutter will make a round cut / hole. Are you using the wrong term for what you want to make? Describe what you wish the tool to do or we can't be of much use to you. A reamer turns like a drill bit and can NOT make a "special" shape cut. Different diameter and depth, no problem. Different or "special shape? Nope, not a reamer. Frosty The Lucky.
June 19, 20196 yr Seen from above, certainly. However, lyuv might need to make a hole with a specific taper or unique counterbore. I'd still like to see a picture, though.
June 19, 20196 yr Ayup but a taper is still a round cut. A reamer ONLY cuts one direction so there is ONLY that orientation that can be used to describe the reamer or results, looking down the length of the hole. Yes? A reamer is a specific tool with specific results, I'm trying to determine what he actually wants to do so we can maybe help him. A fluted reamer is an exercise in grinding. It's not a beginner's exercise, even sharpening a reamer is an expert or automatic process, let alone making one. A reamer is NOT a trivial project. Frosty The Lucky.
June 20, 20196 yr Author 21 hours ago, Frosty said: A reamer turns like a drill bit and can NOT make a "special" shape cut. Different diameter and depth, no problem. Different or "special shape? Nope, not a reamer. Not all reamers are straight or plain tappers. Here is an example of a speciality reamer. Mine also has a radius thrown in...
June 20, 20196 yr The answer to your question is yes, you need to temper. And there is a proper temper needed for this steel for your job. speaking generally, you may not want the temper to be the hardest, you may want a temper more suited for wear resistance. Again generally, and i use this for O1, the hardest temper(light straw) is used for wood tools, not for removing steel. If its too hard, your tool will chip
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