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About G-son

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  1. Allrighty! A 3/4" sch 40 pipe has an actual internal diameter of 0.824". that converts to 20,9296mm, I'll round it off to 20,9. A 20,9mm diameter hole has the area pi * 10,45 ^2 = 343mm2 300cu/i is 4,916l 350cu/i is 5,755l 343/4,916 = 69,8 343/5,755 = 59,6 So, we want a mixing tube diameter that gives us roughly 60-70 mm2 of hole for every liter of forge volume. For 1l: 2√(60/pi)= 8,74 2√(70/pi)= 9,44 For 2l: 2√(120/pi)= 12,36 2√(140/pi)= 13,35 Forge volume per burner vs. mixing tube internal diameter (actual diameter, not advertised sizes!) 1l: 8,7 - 9,4mm 2l: 12,4 - 13,4mm 3l: 15,1 - 16,4mm 4l: 17,5 - 18,9mm 5l: 19,5 - 21,1mm 6l: 21,4 - 23,1mm 7l: 23,1 - 25,0mm And so on.
  2. Yeah, right... I looked here because this seemed like the most logical place to have that info, but no luck. I know the info is out there, hiding in plain sight somewhere in the burners 101/forges 101 threads, but those have a combined length of 113 pages and 25 posts per page. Someone who knows what they're talking about would probably be done long before I've had time to plow through these threads from start to finish yet another time. (I really need to copy & save all the juicy parts when I find them to make the info easier to find again, I can't remember it all. )
  3. G-son

    Burners 101

    There are several types of low silver content solder (or "solder"). There's the tin with a few percent silver in, that's a soft solder with a relatively low melting point and somewhat limited strength - higher temp than lead/tin, but still low temperature in the world of melting metals. There is also the phosphor-copper brazing rods for brazing copper pipes in plumbing, the phosphor content makes it "self-fluxing" on copper. Sometimes used w/o silver, sometimes a few percent silver is added to make it flow better into the joints.
  4. G-son

    Burners 101

    I agree. Brazing gives so many possibilities, and particularly silver brazing (incorrectly a.k.a. silver soldering) is great. Anyone with a descent size hand held propane burner can silver braze things of limited size using high silver content brazing rods, bronze brazing has similarities and the lower price is nice, but the higher working temperature requires a bigger torch that can bring the metal up to more like orange heat. Still easily done with most DIY torches discussed in this part of IFI, but hard to do with the small store bought hand held torches. This burner was built almost exclusively by silver brazing (the mig tip was soft soldered in place, for easier removal if needed, everything else is 40% silver brazing rod). Not a pretty build, but most of it came out of a scrapheap...
  5. Take a look at shipping containers. Four walls and a roof, sturdy construction, if you have lots of rain in your area you may want to add a sloped roof on top, nothing fancy needed. Also, once you don't need it anymore you can sell it, or move it if you need to.
  6. Aluminum or even plastic tubing may be an option for long, light weight handles. Not very forging related, but sometimes you just need the best solution for the problem at hand.
  7. Are you sure the jaw moves freely? Disassembly, cleaning and a little fresh grease can work wonders for things that are supposed to move but don't want to.
  8. Well, people may read answers without replying to them, or even being logged on.
  9. "I measured once, cut twice, and the XXXXXX thing is still too short!" Prototypes get extra length where practical, much easier to cut off excess later than adding more if it's too short.
  10. If you use filler rod for TIG or oxygen/acetylene welding you don't have to deal with any flux.
  11. G-son

    Burners 101

    We want the air and the gas to mix as good as possible, if I've understood correctly this is usually achieved with a rotating flow (a.k.a. swirl) or some other kind of turbulent flow through the mixing tube, correct? Is there such a thing as too much swirl? (I think someone has said there's no such thing in a naturally aspirated burner, but that implies there can be such a thing somewhere.) Has there been any known attempts using multiple gas jets in a burner to create/increase swirl? Say, for example, one gas jet in the conventional location, and one or more (possibly much smaller) jet placed at an angle somewhere in the burner to cause the air-gas mix to rotate as it goes down through the burner?
  12. G-son

    Burners 101

    Thankyou, that's interesting.
  13. Interesting. I'm thinking that the internal thread means you need to keep that mostly as is, you can't grind it down to reduce how much it affects the air flow past it. The type in the first picture would probably be fine no narrow down quite a bit. Not sure how much that would matter?
  14. Okay, so the nozzles not ideal. If you do try them, please let us know how it works, while they probably aren't perfect they may be good enough for some of the times we don't need perfect. I have been looking a bit at glue dispensing tips, but I'm not happy with them being partly plastic with just a stainless tube. Might work, but I'm not sure I'd want plastic pieces in a burner. Cannibalizing the metal is an option, and removing the plastic. I put the data together mostly to get a better view over it all for myself, but I thought there may be more people here that find it useful. Also, if I put it here I know where to look for it next time I need it... Never miss an opportunity to tell people to think for themselves, too many of them don't. Nice to see you thought this deserved a thread of its own, not just a spot in burners 101. But perhaps a topic that describe the content a little better might be suitable? Something like "Gas jet size vs mix tube diameter, actual diameters" - something along those lines, not sure how long the topic can be here. The headline on the picture was mostly for the times the picture ends up somewhere else, without the rest of text, as a discussion topic leading to the picture something a bit more descriptive might help people know what it's about.
  15. G-son

    Burners 101

    Which brings us to the topic "how short is too short?" (Keep your girlfriends out of this one.) Looking at the jets in store bought small burners the orifice seems to be quite short, a couple of millimeters at the most, and often there's a filter of sorts mashed down into the mouth of the jet too so there's no laminar flow into the orifice for sure. Not a perfect design by what we have learned around here, but it seems to work. With smaller diameters shorter orifices would seem to be acceptable, but how much is enough?