Hello I'm knew to the fourm and knew to blacksmithing. I am however a professional welder/fabricator. so I decided to build my own forge. however I was limited on my budget so I have a straight burner made with black steel 3/4" to 1 1/4" flares and brass fittings with 1/16" hole for propane flow, and a 18"x9"x6" hot box. now here is the problem my burner works great when it's not attached to the forge, but as soon as I attach to the forge the blue torch flame disappears and the forge starts backfiring almost. to where it burns and then like sends out a blast of air every couple of seconds and if I increase pressure in just gets faster anyone have any advice?

The reducer fitting is way too small for an air opening, and the gas jet is way to large. Red Burners 101, and try again.

If you follow the directions for a T-burner you could be up and running a good burner in no time.  Mikey literally wrote the book on the topic, I’d do whatever he says.....

Thanks guys

12 hours ago, Mwelder2018 said:

I'm knew to the fourm

Welcome to IFI. If you edit your profile to show your location, you never know if there are other members near you that can help.

I always suggest reading this to get the best out of the forum. READ THIS FIRST

Thank you for the welcome. I look forward to learning as much as I can from this fourm and hopefully one day help others to learn.

If you post pictures of your forge and burner, I'm sure it will help in getting it right. Beside that you may have guessed we love pictures. Just make sure the pictures are G rated.

Hey guys is there any blacksmiths near woodford va 22580

Have you checked here?

 

No not yet ty oh and here are some pics and video of my forge I took Mike's advice and build new burners oh and can this be used to seal ceramic wool and steel be able to reach welding temps

 

 

It's refractory CEMENT and NOT intended to be in contact with the flame, it won't last very long as a flame face forge liner. You want a "castable refractory," if it has cement or mortar ANYWHERE in the name it's the wrong stuff. Contact Wayne Coe another Iforge member, he sells small amounts for reasonable so you don't have to buy a 50lb. sack to use 2-3lbs. 

Turn the Ts on your burners 90* so the intake ports aren't facing each other. Its a minor thing but they'll be competing for combustion air in their current position. The mixing tubes look awful long, what's the ID and length?

Frosty The Lucky.

I suspect that your burners actually aren't running all that great outside of the forge either. Your mixing tubes look to be way too long. The "T" burner achieves a hot flame, which is surprisingly soft for all that; which means that it would suffer badly from being further softened by over long mixing tubes; that could be why they fail from the small amount of back-pressure made by the forge. On the other hand, the answer to your problem could be provided by a few minutes with a hacksaw, if I'm right. Ask Frosty.

Id is 3/4" x 10" ... oh and frosty I was reading your liner thread and am I understanding correctly if im using ceramic wool to line with all I need is rigidizer and a reradiant?

The rule of thumb ratio for tube length is: L= 8 x Dia. 8x 3/4" is NOT 10". Right?

If you read what I said about lining a forge to mean that. Read it again carefully.

In order shell inwards: ceramic wool refractory blanket, two 1" layers, rigidized. 1/2" high alumina, water set,castable hard refractory. Last and optional a thin coat of Kiln wash. Applied with a brush at about thick latex paing consistency.

Frosty The Lucky.

Right thank you frosty

Thanks irondrogan and frosty and everyone for the help

Welder,

Welcome from a fellow new smith. Beautiful forge box. Can't wait to see the beautiful things you make with it. 

Those look eerily similar to the ones I just finished up, but mine were 1/2" tubes and had a couple other differences. I decided to stop posting so much about it and start just doing more, and tonight I finally started putting refractory on. 

Just my .02 here, Ill throw it in with the "listen to Mikey" crowd. Frankly I'm suprised he still has patience for new guys like us. 

Good luck with your build! 

Yeah, Mike gets just as aggravated as any of us but when someone gets it, it makes it worth the little stuff.

Frosty The Lucky.

Hey guys thanks for all the help I just poured my hard slab for the bottom of the forge waiting for it to set got the ir reflective on the way should be up and running fixed the issue with the length of the burners once I have it completed I will posted some videos and pics of it also found a good supplier on just about anything need to build forge so if anyone needs help getting supplies let me know oh also is it worth taking the time to round the inside casting of my square forge?

Yes and no; it depends. Most people worry way too much about cold spots in their forge. But as forge and burner improvements have moved heating equipment out of the strictly "flame heated" category in to radiant ovens-=--not so much

Please no videos, they don't really tell anybody very much. Good stills work better, you can pick a spot and zoom in on it and they don't jerk around nor play annoying music. More importantly for all the folk on the forum who don't have high speed but rely on dial up connections and pay by the minute stills convey the info for WAY less bandwidth.

Frosty The Lucky.

10-4

Ok so got everything almost finished now just cureing the liner one problem tho burners seem to keep acting funny back pressure from the forge flame also coming out where burners connect to forge should I drill bigger hole and but burners in burner holes ?