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I Forge Iron

Custom burner and forge having problems


Mwelder2018

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Hello I'm knew to the fourm and knew to blacksmithing. I am however a professional welder/fabricator. so I decided to build my own forge. however I was limited on my budget so I have a straight burner made with black steel 3/4" to 1 1/4" flares and brass fittings with 1/16" hole for propane flow, and a 18"x9"x6" hot box. now here is the problem my burner works great when it's not attached to the forge, but as soon as I attach to the forge the blue torch flame disappears and the forge starts backfiring almost. to where it burns and then like sends out a blast of air every couple of seconds and if I increase pressure in just gets faster anyone have any advice?

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It's refractory CEMENT and NOT intended to be in contact with the flame, it won't last very long as a flame face forge liner. You want a "castable refractory," if it has cement or mortar ANYWHERE in the name it's the wrong stuff. Contact Wayne Coe another Iforge member, he sells small amounts for reasonable so you don't have to buy a 50lb. sack to use 2-3lbs. 

Turn the Ts on your burners 90* so the intake ports aren't facing each other. Its a minor thing but they'll be competing for combustion air in their current position. The mixing tubes look awful long, what's the ID and length?

Frosty The Lucky.

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I suspect that your burners actually aren't running all that great outside of the forge either. Your mixing tubes look to be way too long. The "T" burner achieves a hot flame, which is surprisingly soft for all that; which means that it would suffer badly from being further softened by over long mixing tubes; that could be why they fail from the small amount of back-pressure made by the forge. On the other hand, the answer to your problem could be provided by a few minutes with a hacksaw, if I'm right. Ask Frosty.

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The rule of thumb ratio for tube length is: L= 8 x Dia. 8x 3/4" is NOT 10". Right?

If you read what I said about lining a forge to mean that.:huh: Read it again carefully.

In order shell inwards: ceramic wool refractory blanket, two 1" layers, rigidized. 1/2" high alumina, water set,castable hard refractory. Last and optional a thin coat of Kiln wash. Applied with a brush at about thick latex paing consistency.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Those look eerily similar to the ones I just finished up, but mine were 1/2" tubes and had a couple other differences. I decided to stop posting so much about it and start just doing more, and tonight I finally started putting refractory on. 

Just my .02 here, Ill throw it in with the "listen to Mikey" crowd. Frankly I'm suprised he still has patience for new guys like us. 

Good luck with your build! 

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Hey guys thanks for all the help I just poured my hard slab for the bottom of the forge waiting for it to set got the ir reflective on the way should be up and running fixed the issue with the length of the burners once I have it completed I will posted some videos and pics of it also found a good supplier on just about anything need to build forge so if anyone needs help getting supplies let me know oh also is it worth taking the time to round the inside casting of my square forge?

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Please no videos, they don't really tell anybody very much. Good stills work better, you can pick a spot and zoom in on it and they don't jerk around nor play annoying music. More importantly for all the folk on the forum who don't have high speed but rely on dial up connections and pay by the minute stills convey the info for WAY less bandwidth.

Frosty The Lucky.

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