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About St.patty

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  • Location
    South MD, US
  • Interests
    Knifemaking, wrought iron work

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  1. Yeah, from the scale of it I think our forges may be very similar in cubic inches. Mine is simply cylindrical rather than a rectangle, and has 2 small burners vice your 1 larger one. At any rate, lots of wicked smart people here, I'm sure with some help from these guys you'll have it running like a top in no time. Good luck with (the last 10% of) your build!
  2. So, I had to look up what an mpa is, not gonna lie. If my conversion-fu is working that works out to about 14 psi. I am just as new as you are to all this, but, for what it's worth my forge runs happiest at 4 or 5 psi (.027-.033 mpa, again assuming correct conversion) and that's on 2 1/2" burners. Long story short I suspect your psi may be a touch high, but if I were you I'd wait on one of the old salts here to confirm or deny, please dont change anything just based on my word alone.
  3. Okay thanks, hadnt known that. I already have some refractory so today I will get on making a floor in it.
  4. So would you not recommend putting a fire brick in for the "floor"? That was my plan, and when I get said fire bricks I will be building the wall as well; for now I have a crude lid that I have been using to get the heat up. As far as rotating you mean have the burners vertically oriented and on top? I had considered it but was worried about losing too much heat from the burner openings. Edit: picture was taken at 4 psi after ~4 minutes of burn time.
  5. In keeping with the other guys who have recently finished theirs, I do believe I'm done. What do yall think? This was my attempt at 2 1/2 Frosty Ts spaced evenly through the forge body. It's a "cylinder" that measures roughly 10" deep by 7" diameter. Ignore the railroad spike that's just something I was heating up while testing so I didnt feel like I was burning propane for funsies.
  6. Those look eerily similar to the ones I just finished up, but mine were 1/2" tubes and had a couple other differences. I decided to stop posting so much about it and start just doing more, and tonight I finally started putting refractory on. Just my .02 here, Ill throw it in with the "listen to Mikey" crowd. Frankly I'm suprised he still has patience for new guys like us. Good luck with your build!
  7. Care to elaborate? I'm no electrician but I have quite a few 3 phase motors around, just havent been able to concoct a way to make them work.
  8. Alright, another day, another update I guess. I only had the time to get this one picture while they were running but! Following Mikey's advice, I made some sleeves for the back of the T and re-drilled them for the MIG tip to fit through, making sure it was aligned properly down the burner. Following that, I added on a couple of 3/4"x1/2" reducers i had laying around from my last attempt at this. I assume the holes in the sides of these are doing me no good, so they will be replaced shortly. When this picture was taken they were running somewhere around 6 PSI. But just with these 2 modifications (moving the MIG tip pack to where it is only 3/8"" or so inside the T, and adding the cones) I THINK has gotten me a lot closer to a pair of real burners. Thoughts? P.S. Im not sure why the two flames are so different, in theory they should be the same, no? I will take a close look at them tomorrow for any minor differences I may have missed.
  9. Alright, I'll stop being stubborn and go read the whole thread then. Thanks again for your advice
  10. Yep that's because they're not soldered in place yet, and this is why! I wanted to make sure I had it all dialed in before it's set forever. When lit, I can move them around and adjust a bit. So you're saying the tip needs to be about 3/8" away from the outside wall of the T, right? I'll adjust and update. Thanks for all your help btw
  11. Okay! I have more pictures today.What i've done here is basically stick just the tip (heh) of the MIG tip inside the back end of the T, wrapped in kaowool just to be sure. in the picture with both burning, the one on the left is the one thats been modified, whereas the one on the right is the same as last night. EDIT: Inside the garage this time with the door closed, so no more wind issues.
  12. Well in their defence, that was outside and the wind had kicked up a bit, but I see what you mean. The end of the MIG tip is right at the intersection of the T, maybe about 1/4" down the pipe. I figured that made for a decent spot. I'll get the pictures tomorrow, thank you!
  13. Okay! So I'm a little bit sorry for resurrecting a dead thread, but, back in the original there was some interest in seeing 1/2" burners... To sum it up, i decided that rather than have 1 3/4" burner in the middle, i wanted to have 2 smaller, 1/2" ones offset, for (hopefully) more even heat distribution. Well I'm posting tonight to tell you I've finally gotten them to work! What I ended up doing was: 1"x1"x1/2" T fitting, cast iron 8" long 1/2" iron pipe In the back end of the T fitting i drilled a hole out to 1/2" and then CAREFULLY bored it out further until I had the brass nipple sitting on the shoulder between the threads and the body (I plan to solder this properly later once it's all finalized) My forge tips are 1/4" x 2.5" long brass nipples, with a 1/4" cap on the end. In the cap I drilled and tapped a hole to fit a MIG welding tip (this was a 1/4" 28 TPI tap) and used a .023 MIG tip for my "injector" of propane. They lit right up on the first try! And from what I can tell it looks like I have a decent flame. Spray bottle of soapy water later and I did find 2 leaks, so I shut it down for the night- tomorrow I will be chasing down those leaks and sealing it all up. I've attached the only picture I managed to get before realizing I had leaks. Hopefully this helps someone who was looking at doing 1/2" burners, and if yall have any questions I'll be around! **QUICK SHOUT OUT to all the people far smarter than me on this board, I leaned heavily on the math and knowledge here for everything I've done so far. Thanks!
  14. Got one end assembled and about to start drilling holes. This will be my forge body, it's now lined with 2" of ceramic wool I found a local supplier for (atlantech, for those of you who live in MD. They're in Elkridge.) Its rated for 2600 continuous use. My remaining area is an 8" circle 9.5" deep- little smaller than what I wanted but it'll do. Time to go make my mold and pour.
  15. You'll see as the pictures go on, man. I've always kept a clean shop but I JUST moved in here so it's kind of a train wreck still.