45-70nut Posted March 30, 2019 Author Share Posted March 30, 2019 This has truly been a challenge, but I am already thinking of another one. The scabbard still needs a chape but for now I have a functional and fully tested sword. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted March 31, 2019 Share Posted March 31, 2019 Good looking blade. Nicely done. I confess that I myself am nowhere near considering making a sword, so kudos to you for taking the plunge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted March 31, 2019 Share Posted March 31, 2019 How much does it weigh? What alloy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 31, 2019 Share Posted March 31, 2019 5 hours ago, JHCC said: kudos to you for taking the plunge On a roll today aren't you John? Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted March 31, 2019 Share Posted March 31, 2019 I'm just grinding them out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mandragoran Posted April 1, 2019 Share Posted April 1, 2019 Way to crack a joke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 2, 2019 Share Posted April 2, 2019 We expect that kind of gritty action from you John. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted April 2, 2019 Share Posted April 2, 2019 It's my abrasive personality. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 2, 2019 Share Posted April 2, 2019 Oh come on John that's just a clever rouge to hide real polish. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
45-70nut Posted April 2, 2019 Author Share Posted April 2, 2019 Steel is 5160 and weight is 2 lb 13 oz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 2, 2019 Share Posted April 2, 2019 A good alloy, Heat Treat? The weight is a bit on the high side, perhaps more distal taper on the next one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
45-70nut Posted April 2, 2019 Author Share Posted April 2, 2019 The heat treat is good, a bit on the hard side but has been tested extensively, including snapping two inches of the tip by driving it into a log and flexing as far as it would take, and I couldnt be happier with the performance. Weight was kept high intentaly to be used for heavy chopping. The next one will be lighter, as i believe a fuller will help greatly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil K. Posted April 12, 2019 Share Posted April 12, 2019 If you like it, that's what's important. A great learning experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cavpilot2k Posted April 12, 2019 Share Posted April 12, 2019 Nice job! You've inspired me to consider my first sword build for the summer: A falcata. It's my favorite classic sword shape, is relatively short, curvy, and single-edged, so I am reducing the number of challenges I am imposing on myself first time out. I will be forging it though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
45-70nut Posted April 13, 2019 Author Share Posted April 13, 2019 Thank you. I chose to do a stock removal process because it is the fastest way to make a sword, thats the easy part. I know I can forge a sword, what I was most nervous about was the heat treat as I have never done anything that big before and didnt know what to expect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 13, 2019 Share Posted April 13, 2019 There's nothing wrong with stock removal, doing it well is a LOT harder than forging a preform. Without stock removal it's not a blade it's a black scale covered shape. Not that I don't like brushed or as forged shapes but it takes stock removal operations to make a blade. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 13, 2019 Share Posted April 13, 2019 Forging a preform is definitely an easier way to get proper distal taper in a sword blade. Stock removal blades tend to be overweight as grinding multiple axis tapers evenly by hand is a tough skill and takes time; but forging them in is almost automatic. A lot depends on what skills and what equipment you have and have trained on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
45-70nut Posted April 13, 2019 Author Share Posted April 13, 2019 I have access to a modern production forge, where my skills have grown at forging, but spend more time grinding because its quick, and yes, its a hard earned skill. I do prefer doing things the traditional way, it just takes more time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted April 13, 2019 Share Posted April 13, 2019 Of course once you grind the weight down to a better amount; that will have added time to the "modern" method too. Watch your "traditions" too; remember Moxon published in 1703 "He that will a good edge win; must forge thick and grind thin." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 13, 2019 Share Posted April 13, 2019 Humans have been grinding blades since the stone age. Take a look at the pictures of King Tut's meteoric iron dagger; forged first then ground. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
45-70nut Posted April 14, 2019 Author Share Posted April 14, 2019 Ok, by tradition I mean my perfered meathod, forging over a charcoal forge using homemade charcoal. It just so happens I also have access to 5160 bar stock, a burr king grinder, and a free supply of 3M cubitron belts. I couldnt pass up the latter. Forge thick grind thin has always worked for me but I more respect the smith who can forge and finish with a file and stones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 15, 2019 Share Posted April 15, 2019 21 hours ago, 45-70nut said: I more respect the smith who can forge and finish with a file and stones. Only if he doesn't complain about not making a decent wage. I have a couple friends who won't have electricity in their shops: forge, file, sand, polish, fit and finish by hand but complain incessantly they can't find a customer who'll pay what all their work is worth. There's nothing wrong with hand work it's certainly respectable but it's not necessarily superior, that's a philosophical choice. When I was in school, you passed the class and shop tests for hand work before you had to do the class work and test to touch a power tool. In jr. high metal shop 1 we hand sharpened all the shovels, spades and hoes the agg students used. I can still put a shaving edge on an ax with a draw file very quickly, even if it's been rocked. If it has a blade it's supposed to be sharp. Yes? Ever use a sharp spade? Give it a try sometime. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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