dickb Posted May 5, 2018 Share Posted May 5, 2018 No big deal. Simply back the car up to an Engine lift or to a fork lift. Use chains to secure the anvil to the lifting device and lift it up. Then turn the car around and lower the anvil to the hood (bonnet ?) and again securely chain it in place. Drive to the location where you want to place the anvil and remove the chains and let nature take its' course. You could also carry it on the roof of the car but it might attract unwelcome attention. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gerald Boggs Posted May 5, 2018 Share Posted May 5, 2018 Weakness is a terrible thing :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted May 5, 2018 Share Posted May 5, 2018 That’s good — I was about to suggest taking a cutting torch to the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted May 5, 2018 Share Posted May 5, 2018 One never knows just how strong they are until the chips are down. Glad to see you got it out Nick. EDIT - Nevermind... I got it out... turns out I'm strong enough, my neighbours are not.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted May 5, 2018 Share Posted May 5, 2018 That was going to be my next suggestion, cut the lip of the boot and roll it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted May 5, 2018 Share Posted May 5, 2018 Simple machines, levers, incline planes, pipe as roller bearings, etc make life easier. They are sometimes slow to use but they work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Owen Posted May 5, 2018 Author Share Posted May 5, 2018 I'm sure the company I rent my car from would understand Fair wear and tear damage that is.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the iron dwarf Posted May 5, 2018 Share Posted May 5, 2018 may be able to make an anvil stand on monday as you are heading back this way, depends on having the right metal here and you knowing the height and base of your anvil ( and you wanting me to make a metal one ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 5, 2018 Share Posted May 5, 2018 Hmmm; I've used the tree with a chain and comealong method---but be very sure it's strong enough!!!!!! (Don't ask...) For my previous 1920's garage I would put a piece of wooden 4"x4" against one of the cross beams of the roof and use two lolly columns to hold it up and then use a comealong and a chain. For my 468# anvil: it has 2, 1.5" hardy holes so we stuck some strong pipe through each hardy hole and had 4 college guys over for a smithing day lift and carry it into my garage. (Note: they lifted it and carried it over BEFORE I had unlocked the door, eeled my way through the packed interior and opened the garage door to bring it in...book smart but life dumb!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Owen Posted May 5, 2018 Author Share Posted May 5, 2018 6 hours ago, the iron dwarf said: may be able to make an anvil stand on monday as you are heading back this way, depends on having the right metal here and you knowing the height and base of your anvil ( and you wanting me to make a metal one ) That would really be something if we could! I'm sat here scratching my head at the idea of it and I don't like the original 4x4 wood stack that I was going to go with.. For anyone in England looking for a great source of help, Iron Dwarf is your guy. Will post up photos and reviews of his solid fuel forge once I get it up and running My cup floweth over from the font of useful information I've already cracked from his head Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the iron dwarf Posted May 5, 2018 Share Posted May 5, 2018 and you have not met john yet. go measure your anvil and check for markings at the same time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Owen Posted May 5, 2018 Author Share Posted May 5, 2018 6 hours ago, the iron dwarf said: and you have not met john yet. go measure your anvil and check for markings at the same time All in good time Drawings are not to scale, just rough outlines but hopefully these measurements should be useful? Excuse the mess in the photos, I'm completely redoing my kitchen so the outside is being used as storage and construction yard She's loud too... Think I might have to do the anvil work inside the extension on I'm going to drive my neighbours loopy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted May 5, 2018 Share Posted May 5, 2018 You can damp that loud ringing down. When it's mounted in the stand a good bead of silicone calking compound under the base will do the trick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Owen Posted May 5, 2018 Author Share Posted May 5, 2018 I'll be pulling all of the stops out to damp it out calking, magnets/chains and making sure it's securely down. I'm an end row house so my garden joins on to six others and I don't want mad neighbours Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the iron dwarf Posted May 5, 2018 Share Posted May 5, 2018 ok, all I needed was 30.5 by 34 and you will want the height of it the size of your hardy holes is something to check so you know if tools will fit tap lightly all over the top to see if the sound changes, these may be areas of delamination, the area where the top has broken away is where you dont want to be using it or that can spread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Owen Posted May 5, 2018 Author Share Posted May 5, 2018 Derp. Missed those off of the sketch! The anvil is 32.5cm tall. The big Hardy hole is 1.25inch square, the small 0.75 inch. Is that the right measurements? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the iron dwarf Posted May 5, 2018 Share Posted May 5, 2018 yup, we can make a stand and maybe a hardy tool or two and metric or imperial is ok with me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Owen Posted May 5, 2018 Author Share Posted May 5, 2018 Yes. My casual switching between imperial and metric doesn't go unnoticed. I'm a child of the metric generation but Hardy holes are always discussed in inches Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the iron dwarf Posted May 5, 2018 Share Posted May 5, 2018 how about a hot cut to fit your 3/4"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Owen Posted May 5, 2018 Author Share Posted May 5, 2018 Well I'm unlikely to say no anvil stand is my true love though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 5, 2018 Share Posted May 5, 2018 Let me set up a program to convert measurements into MRC: Milli Royal Cubits...Oh no need there is already websites to do inch and meter to cubit conversions...(someone has way too much time on their hands...) As all the American anvils hardy holes were done in Inches and most of the English anvils were done in inches---England went metric in my lifetime---Inches make a good baseline to talk about them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the iron dwarf Posted May 5, 2018 Share Posted May 5, 2018 if on monday you do well you may be making a hot cut too Thomas did you know that about 50 years ago both US and UK inches changed? and that the US uses 2 different inches or that there used to be many different inches and feet from IIRC 11 inches to 17 inches to the foot, wales and england and germany had many systems and then you get to fingers, palms, shaftments and ells Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 5, 2018 Share Posted May 5, 2018 In the HRE all imperial towns were allowed to have their own Measurements. I've been to several in Germany where their yard/ell/whatever was forged from wrought iron and mounted to the exterior Rathaus wall so all the merchants could check theirs against it. As for changes in the inch, perhaps in the definition, Krypton wavelengths over platinum/iridium? Or were you referring to the Survey Inch being off from the regular inch? Anyway the measuring scales from the 1900's seem to work just fine for me when mixed in with the modern versions. Of course as a blacksmith I try for a tolerance of the "thickness of a worn shilling"---if it was good enough for Watt it's good enough for me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted May 6, 2018 Share Posted May 6, 2018 8 hours ago, Nick Owen said: I'll be pulling all of the stops out to damp it out calking, magnets/chains and making sure it's securely down. Start with a good stand and calking. You may not need the other stuff. Trying to kill all the vibration (ring) can get out of hand. There are many other sources of noise in the shop that would need your attention by that time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the iron dwarf Posted May 6, 2018 Share Posted May 6, 2018 about 1960 IIRC when we both started using the same standard inch one of us had to add and one subtract a millionth of an inch to make them both the same. your survey inch is older and still in use Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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