Plboyd98 Posted January 6, 2018 Share Posted January 6, 2018 So now that it's only 20 degrees or so outside I'm having trouble getting and keeping my paint can forge at an appropriate temperature. I closed off ends with fire brick which helped a little but not much. I'm using a swirl flame torch as a burner until I can make a better burner. Is the burner my main issue? Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Binesman Posted January 6, 2018 Share Posted January 6, 2018 Well how is your forge insulated? What size is the forging chamber? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Irondragon Forge ClayWorks Posted January 6, 2018 Share Posted January 6, 2018 Welcome to IFI, if you edit your profile to show your location you may be surprised how many members are near you and a lot of answers are location dependent. That said we need more information to help. What type of fuel (natural gas or propane)? What type of regulator? If propane how large is your tank? Pictures of your setup and burner would help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plboyd98 Posted January 7, 2018 Author Share Posted January 7, 2018 Propane from a Bernzomatic TS8000 torch, nothing very fancy since it's my first forge. I'm in Virginia, I'll get the profile info updated. It's a paint can forge, 2-1" layers of kaowool for insulation. Rough chamber is 3"x8". Right now it's just the torch head attached to one of those blue 14oz canisters, torch goes through hole in side of forge. Thanks in advance for any help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Binesman Posted January 7, 2018 Share Posted January 7, 2018 So you have nothing for thermal mass. Wool is great at holding heat in an area but it does not absorb heat very well at all. Even a well built forge pushing a 3/4" burner would have trouble in cold weather with an open ended forge with wool only. Order a pint of matrikote from wayne and paint your wool that will help a lot. Also close the end up as well as you can (if tou have some extra blanket you can cut to shape and coat in matrikote as a plug then put some bricks behind as well) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted January 7, 2018 Share Posted January 7, 2018 The best solution is to build or buy a 38" size propane burner, like the one pictured write now on Burners 101 thread. In meantime, their are much hotter propane torches to use: https://www.amazon.com/Mag-Torch-MT245C-Propane-Pencil-Burner/dp/B000646QRG/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1515298192&sr=8-7&keywords=Mapp%2Fpropane+torch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted January 7, 2018 Share Posted January 7, 2018 Well the best solution is to come on down here; it's 68 deg F and sunny today! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plboyd98 Posted January 8, 2018 Author Share Posted January 8, 2018 True 68 and sunny sounds pretty good right now. I think I'm gonna shoot for the 1/2" burner in Mike's book. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 Well, it can be turned down low enough...but I think a winter break in El Paso sounds better. A word to the wise. Any well made miniature burner (3/8" and under) Tends to be very hot running. So you could get what you want from a typical linear burner for less fuss...just a thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 A Bernzomatic torch isn't going to generate a lot of BTUs at 20f, the flame might get hot but the BTUs per second is what makes things hot. A coat of hard refractory will make the forge more durable but more importantly prevent ceramic fibers floating in your breathing air. The air we breath is 70% nitrogen which is quite a heat sink any fuel air flame has to heat the nitrogen as well so a lot of the BTU output of the flame is absorbed by the nitrogen. If the air is cold the flame's BTU output is reduced proportionally. No nitrogen is why an oxy fuel torch is so much hotter and has a higher BTU output. If your forge was hot enough on warmer days don't sweat it on cold days. Besides wouldn't you rather be kicking back with a warm toddy and your feet up? I used up my enjoying working outside oi the cold years ago. It's 7f. here now and I'm only running outside for a couple pieces of stove wood, to walk the dogs or maybe drive Deb to work. Otherwise I have things in the warm house to keep me occupied. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 On 1/6/2018 at 8:09 PM, Plboyd98 said: It's a paint can forge, 2-1" layers of kaowool for insulation. A bit off-topic, but you don't say if your kawool is rigidized and/or lined. If not, STOP USING IT NOW. Inhaled ceramic fibers can wreck your health permanently! @Binesman's metrikote suggestion will certainly help, but you should take a good look at the other threads under Gas Forges (especially Forges 101) for advice on lining the forge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plboyd98 Posted January 18, 2018 Author Share Posted January 18, 2018 Hey JHCC. It's currently lined with a few layers of hi-temp stove and furnace cement. I believe it is Imperial brand. Does that sound like it would be ok? It definitely doesn't seem like any fibers could move around since it's dried to a hard surface. I'm definitely up for recommendations if it doesn't sound like enough. On a similar note. Do you have any recommendations for a type of respirator that would protect against those fibers and also be a good choice for any other things one would run into making knives and using a grinder and such. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikey98118 Posted January 19, 2018 Share Posted January 19, 2018 A good quality paper respirator, which means that is has a built-in exit valve, two elastic strings, and an aluminum strip over the nose area is capable of stopping hazardous dust from ceramics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted January 19, 2018 Share Posted January 19, 2018 For the money I would ( and do) go with a 3m 6000 series half face respirator. They come in different sizes so get the one that's the best fit for you and don't forget to do a fit test. It's really inexpensive for the quality. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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