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Michael Cochran

Portaband table

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At the request of JHCC here is a little bit of information on my portaband table I built today. 

The base is a RR tie plate turned upside down (I plan to build a stand to fit the track space allowing me to swap out tools like my belt grinder) and the uprights are 1 5/8” 16 gauge square and 1 5/8x3” rectangle. The uprights are about 9.25” tall with a .25” piece of plate on top for the table. The table is 7x5”. I used the bandsaw to cut the blade path then I widened it with a cut off disc on my angle grinder. I welded the table down the outside and spot welded it several times on the inside. In order to find my hole placement I took the factory foot off, turned it upside down, and run a pencil around in circles around the inside of the hole. I did get one hole just a little off but it wasn’t enough to give me too much trouble. Right now for my trigger holder I have an old cold cut tied to the plate on one side and run through the handle back through the plate.

If I had heavier tube and heavier plate I’d used it instead but I used what I have “in stock”.

If anyone has questions feel free to ask. 

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You’re welcome, John. 

Real tree, yes, at this point the only support for the saw are the two screws from the table. I’m wondering about adding more support but for now I’m going to use it as is and see if anything actually has to be done. 

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I built a stand for my porta-band and I have to say it's the handiest!

The last photo in the series reminds me: the lower guide bearings take a beating. Small pieces, grit etc all pass thru that slot in the top plate. Keep a set of replacement bearings and screws on hand.

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Steevo I actually wondered about that when seeing the metal dust piling up under the saw as I used it for a little bit. I’ll definitely try to remember to get some the next time I’m at the store. I have a good spot just for that kind of thing in my top drawer of my filing cabinet in the shop. 

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I built something similar at least 20 years ago and it's been a very useful addition to the shop. I held the trigger closed with a hose clamp and put a switch up front to turn the saw on and off.

Some time ago I built an accessory stock support that makes it much safer to cut irregular pieces that won't sit flat on the table . This is also much easier on the blades .

The narrow  stock support is made with two pieces of angle iron  bolted together with a spacer for the blade. It gets clamped to the table and would work with any kind of vertical bandsaw. I made one out of wood for my wood cutting bandsaw.

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I just had some pieces that didn’t sit flat I had to cut. I tried my new setup here instead of the cutoff wheel on my angle grinder and ruined a blade. I will definitely be making that angle iron setup you have there. 

I have a foot pedal switch I’m thinking about putting that inline on my saw cord and making a more permanent trigger holder. 

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There's a stick lubricant available for use on bandsaw blades that helps with both speed and ease of cutting.

The brand I use is Castrol ,but there are others.

I find that good quality  Lennox or Starrett 10-14 variable tooth blades seem to last the longest on general  cutting in steel 

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I didn't see this post until this morning.

I just ordered this on Monday. I ordered it with the optional foot switch. http://www.swagoffroad.com/SWAG-V10-Portaband-Table-_p_64.html

Michael, I doubt that I would have been able to turn out something half as well built as the table you made... Very well done!

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I haven’t tried saw lube on a portaband but I do use Lenox variable pitch blades and rarely have any difficulty cutting anything. 

Shady, this was thrown together with junk. It’s a simple enough project anyone with a welder, a measuring device, and a little patience should be able to do. 

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