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About beaudry

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    Eastsound , Washington
  1. What size propane tank do you have & why?

    I have a 500 gallon tank that is plumbed into the shop that runs three different gas forges and a big oxy/ propane rosebud torch. The torch is supported by two 250 cubic ft. O2 tanks manifolded together. This gives me the best price and avoids the time and hassle of running to town to fill smaller tanks. The local gas company comes out and fills it about twice a year
  2. Some ID help for this vise ?

    Does anybody know what would be the advantage of a vise where the back jaw moves back by turning the handle ?[ like this one does] It seems that it would be much less useful in not being able to put a long piece vertically without hitting the bench. There was some´discussion on these vises over on the vise thread at garagejournal and it was suggested that these were useful in confined spaces where there wasn't room for a conventional forward opening vise, like in a submarine. Cool vise regardless, I want one! Is the thread on the screw a reverse thread ?
  3. Help wth upsetting

    We all like gas forges because you gan get a long even heat on whatever will fit in the firebox. Has anyone successfully built a gas forge specifically designed for a short intense heat in the middle of a bar ? This is probably one of those applications where an induction forge would really be the ticket.
  4. Help wth upsetting

    A coal or coke forge is easier to control to get a localized heat in the middle of a bar. There's less time wasted cooling the rest of the bar from the long heat of a gas forge. Upsetting works best with a high heat, more so than for drawing. For short localized heats, I find that a big oxy fuel cutting tip [ #2 or 3 ] works better than a rose bud and consumes a lot less gas and gives better control. Having your torch run through Gas Saver is much more efficient and will pay for itself quickly in gas savings and reduced frustration. Good ones are made by Smith or Victor These are a shut off valve installed inline between the tank regulators and the torch. The torch is connected to the gas saver on the outlet side by a pair of short flexible hose whips. They have a pilot light built in . Set the mix on the torch, heat the part , hang the torch up on the hook which shuts it off, do the work , pick the torch up again , light on the pilot and reheat as needed. Once the mix is set on the torch there is no time wasted adjusting the knobs or shutting the torch off and setting it down while the part cools. These are designed for different fuel gasses and also work well with a brazing torch or an oxy propane rosebud tip up to a #10 for larger heating jobs. These are well worth the money. Fabricate a stable stand for it so you can bring it close to the work. A decent welding supplier will usually have them in stock and can make up the short hose whips .
  5. Don't grind on it, Just strip the paint off if you want and oil it. Using it will smooth it out . You can actually peen that one edge back cold with a hammer . The tip of the horn and any dings can be dressed with a hammer as well The hard face plates on those old english anvils are usually pretty thin [ maybe 3/8'' or so ] Mount it solidly to a base anchored into the floor with the top about wrist height and you are good to go. I like to have a solid timber base slightly smaller that the length of the footprint of the anvil. Orient the grain of the block vertically. This can be one solid piece or built up from smaller timbers. Through bolt two pieces of heavy flat bar [ 1/2' x 6'' maybe ] on each side of the block with the top 1'' of the edge of the flat bar pinching the feet of the anvil. This will hold it really tight to the block and kill the ring at the same time. Loosen the bolts to remove or reorient the anvil on the block. If you are lucky enough to have a dirt floor in your smithy, cut the block long enough to bury it about two feet deep . Pour a couple of inches of concrete in the bottom of the hole , set the block in and fill the hole around the block with more concrete . Bring the last few inches up to finish grade with dirt. If you have a concrete floor, make a base for the block with some angle iron and anchor it into the floor with concrete anchors drilled into the slab. Lead lag shields will enable you to unbolt it and move the block around if you change your mind or need to get it out of the way. With this method you can stand right up next to the anvil in any position for the most effective stance. Having an anvil mounted solidly so that it doesn't move at all will mean that every hammer blow goes into the work instead of pushing the anvil around. Mocking up the location and height and orientation of the anvil will help you get it right the first time.
  6. It looks English, maybe a Peter Wright . The numbers is the weight marked in the old hundredweight system ; First 1=112 lbs [ one hundredweight ] second 1= 1/4 hundredweight = 28 lbs last number =21 lbs for a total of 161 lbs , pretty close to your scale weight of 155 lb good anvil in decent shape at a good price
  7. Rivetless Scroll Tongs

    How does it hold up with the sideways twisting torque that is common with scroll tongs ? I'm assuming that unless the parent stock can fit through the hinge mortise both the working end as well as the reins have to be shaped after the two pieces are assembled Is there some advantage with a joint like that ?
  8. Bronze for the first time

    In the US, try Alaska Copper and Brass in Seattle , Portland or San Diego or Atlas Metals in Denver. For small quantities in limited alloys try onlinemetals. For forging, best to use silicon bronze or naval bronze . Naval bronze in my experience is easier to forge with a slightly wider range of forging temperatures. Also quite a bit cheaper . Silicon bronze is a bit redder in color, but they both look about the same with age or a darkening patina. Be prepared for some expensive mistakes if you forge it hot . Temperature is really critical with the material falling to pieces above an orange heat , but it moves easily at orange all the way down to black heat. It shows tool and hammer work beautifully and is great for carving and stamping with hot work chisels. I make all my hot work chisels and gouges with thin sharp edges or narrow profiles from S-1 , forged at yellow and allowed to cool in air. The bronzes weld well with Mig with a HE-Argon- Co2 mix and a fair amount of preheat . Also can be Tigged with He. or gas welded with bronze rod. I just finished up the last bit of a 4' x 8' sheet of 1/4'' Naval Bronze plate that I bought about 15 years ago for about $1,200 . Probably double that now. Free machining leaded yellow brass is less expensive and is noticeably easier to file ,saw, drill or machine than the bronzes but difficult to weld. I doubt that it is forgeable because of the lead and high zinc content.
  9. Colombian Leg Vise

    I have a 7'' Columbian post vise that was obviously dropped forged. Your vise still has the parting line from the drop forging dies clearly visible running vertically down the centerline of the front and back jaws. They are stout vises for their size and seem of more recent manufacture than a lot of other vises by other makers. One common feature of the Columbian post vises that I have seen besides the short back end of the screw box is the U-bolt that holds the spring and the back leg to the mounting plate. This is different than the tapered wedges and mortised mounting plate usually found on most other vises. This seems like a much stronger mounting system and I have retrofitted most of the vises in my shop with mounts of this type. Easy to do with a piece of angle iron and some round bar threaded on each end.
  10. Morgan Vise Co Chicago 60

    Great vise and a steal of a price. Big American made heavy machinist vises are getting hard to find. A vise is only as good as it's mounting. Hopefully you have or will make a solid bench to bolt it to that will enable you to use it to it's full capacity.
  11. Nice hammer. Keep us updated on the rebuild. You probably know this already but you want to cut that top die key off flush with the ram once it gets finally fitted , so it doesn't bugger up the guide when it comes powering up to the top of its stroke. A lot of those hammers have damage to the underside of the bell housing from a long die key hitting the guide. I put a punch march on the top of the key when it's fully set sight so I can get a quick visual to see if it's starting to work loose. A thick copper shim on top of the key in the dovetail made all the difference in keeping the die and key solidly in place. Mine has a short locating pin between the bottom of the upper dovetail in the ram and the top of the upper die to keep it centered. Does yours ?
  12. Putting it on a piece of plywood is a waste of time. Get real about this and try and do it right the first time. Draw the footprint of the hammer on a piece of plywood . Indicate the dies and their orientation on the template. Set the template on the shop floor and move it around until you find the right location where you can work a bar both straight in through the dies as well as across the length of the dies. Do this with the longest bar you can imagine handling [ probably no more than ten feet . ] Work out an efficient path from the forge to the hammer , with maybe a stop in the middle for a secondary operation on the anvil, like straightening. Do the same mockup with the anvil and the vise. Take your time. This will probably indicate a work area about 12' by 12' ,maybe a little more. Think efficient work flow from forge to hammer to anvil or vise. Repeat. If you do big architectural pieces like railings and gates you might want spread it out a bit. If you make knives and small items you could tighten it up a bit. Pour a substancial footing for the hammer [ 2' deep at least ?] Keep all the concrete below grade if you are committed to staying with a dirt floor. Fasten the anvil solidly at the proper height to a solid timber set vertically in concrete . Mount the post vise to a solid bench or post anchored to a wall and or into the floor. Dont't waste your time and energy chasing an anvil around the shop or in a vise that moves with every hit. The human body only has a limited amount of power. Mount your basic tools solidly to make the most of it. Mocking it up and playing with the space will usually indicate the best and most efficient setup. Usually there really is only one way that works with the space you have. With a dirt floor you can dig it up to run power or air or water lines in the future. Rake it flat and smooth every week or so.
  13. Vactra 2 way oil is designed for heavy pressure and slow speeds [lathe and milling machine beds for example ] Works great for most open flow through type bearings commonly found on mechanical power hammers . It's relatively cheap and is available in gallons or 5 gallon pails from most industrial supply houses. Not as sticky as bar oil so it doesn't hold the grit and dirt . Use lots, to keep things running smoothly and flush out the dirt. Oil is always cheaper than parts or downtime. If the hammer has grease fittings or grease cups use a light grease suitable for heavy loads, slow speeds .
  14. Pour a separate foundation block for the hammer. Put the top of it level with the future floor height if you think you will eventually pour a slab. The hammer will hit harder and with more control if it's bolted to a heavy foundation block. Bury a heavy wood block even with the floor where your heel rests when you work the treadle . A dirt floor is great to have in a blacksmith shop. Easier on your body, easier to pick up dropped hot pieces and sparks and hot cutoffs don't fly in all directions. There are lot's of pictures of big industrial shops with dirt floors. I've had a dirt floor in my forge shop for 25 years and love it. The machine shop has a concrete slab and the wood shop has a wood floor
  15. The wood blocks I have embedded in the floor are flush or just below the grade of my dirt floor. They measure about 2'' x 12'' x 15'' and are lagged into the top of the concrete foundation block which is 2'' below grade. The only purpose of these blocks is to provide a solid consistent surface in a otherwise soft floor, not raise my foot in any way . With a flat concrete or wood floor around the hammer I would not need these blocks. The flat part of the lowered treadle is about 3'' by 12'' so there are various options to where I can push down with my toe while the heel is always firmly planted on the floor [ or block in my case ] Most work is done straight in to the hammer, but just like working around an anvil at various angles with a hand hammer, I tend to work around the the power hammer die as the shape develops . Being able to move side to side while working a piece, and still standing solidly on both feet seems much safer, easier on my body and allows me better control of the hammer. This is most apparent in handling heavy and/or long pieces. I often find it easiest in using hand held top tools to lay the work across the length of the die and bring the tool in from the front . This gives me the clearest visibility of the set up and position of the tool relative to the work . I also find that it works much better to finish long smooth tapers in solid or hollow pieces with the work laid almost corner to corner on large flat dies. Notice the use of such terms as usually, often , works best in my case, for my application , with my hammer etc. etc.