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Welding spatter


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I was using my stick to tack some shanks to a couple hardy tools. I had everything seated and clamped in place, in the hardy hole.

Using someone's advice, might have been from here (likely), I sprayed the face of the anvil with PAM cooking spray (my wife buys the store brand, but it's the same stuff).

Everything wiped right off, but again, this was just a couple tacks. Don't know how this would hold up under a hot 'n heavy welding session.

Don

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I use Pam in my MIG gun both at work and home. Posted here some time back but got the idea from Alex Ivey from the SWABA group in N.M. The goofy guy that bought it for me at work got the butter flavored Pam and I always have a craving for popcorn while welding with wire....:)

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As far as removing splatter that sticks in spite of sprays to prevent sticking goes, an old file with a single faced bevel ground (like a wood chisel; not a cold chisel) on the end makes a wonderful chipper. The bevel doesn't need to be severe. Just less then square. Maybe 70 or 80 degrees. Too sharp and it won't hold and edge or it will chip. Used with the bevel up and with the action similar to scraping paint, it wedges under most spatter and it knocks right off. More stubborn "dingle balls" as we called them, could be persuaded with a few light taps on the other end of the file with a hammer. This was the common method for removing splatter used in the production welding I did. Part of quality assurance was to be sure any splatter was removed. The reason was not only for appearance but also to prevent corrosion from the spatter possibly coming off after the product was painted or galvanized. If all else fails, there's always the grinder ;)

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I've used CAT brand high-temp antiseize (the copper colored type) when welding near exposed bolt threads. It's kinda pricey, but it worked great though. I like the PAM idea, I'll have to give that a try. And as far as my welding bench or welding table.... well.... their both rusty enough that, for the most part, the spatter doesn't really stick at all. When I do have to remove spatter, I have an old cold chisel that has a really acute angle to it, it works great for scraping it off.
-Aaron @ the SCF

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for my welding table I paint it with CHEAP spray can primer that take's care of mig
spatter problem--now bepending on you're welder you now have a grounding problem
to table just clean a small area for grounding or what I have is a short ground lead hook
to the table so I can ground something set on a piece of plywood let say a alluim head
I don't want to arc though the table lead also handy work just next to the table

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Actually they make slag chippers if you wish to invest. Some farriers tool companies make wide ( hoof ) chisels that work well for removing plasma plummies and splatter. Scott, I like your use of a file idea. Norton makes a cup wheel ( rock ) that will remove tacks and splatter off of a table and leave it nice and smooth ( also works well for leveling up some stuff you build ). 6" wheel and yes you can't have the guard on. A piece of 1/4 x 1 bar stock will work ( or something similar ) to remove boogers on a piece you have just welded if you are not close to the table. Flap wheels work nice yes Richard. I have 3 electric grinders. All dedicated. 7" has a Makita rock on it. One small has a Pearl rock and the other has a flap wheel. Different die grinders have different rocks or burrs. I weld through enough paint at work and hate to do it at home. Pam spray works nice. Somewhere Glenn has a disclamer on the site. YOU and YOU alone are responsable for your own shop safety. I've got the scars , eye pics from FOD removal and other body issues to prove my point. Be safe. Staff Sargeant Murphy lives.

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