Pancho07 Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 I’m building a set of spurs for a local guy and made a stupid mistake on one of the shanks. Wen I was cutting the towel slots I tried to speed tings up by drilling out as much as I could and got one of the holes way out of line( the rest were cut with a hacksaw). This may be a moot point if he wants them left silver but if he wants them blued I’m wondering how much that spot will show up if I fill the divot in with the tig or mig welder and grind it back smooth. It’s not huge but if I leave it it will be noticeable. I’m not averse to making a new shank but would rather not if I can avoid it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 So, if I understand you correctly, the inside of one slot has a divot from a misaligned hole? Why not grind both slots larger, mig or tig the inside of both, and regrind the slots? It will cost you a bit in time and material, but that way both slots will be identical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pancho07 Posted November 9, 2017 Author Share Posted November 9, 2017 That’s basically what I’m planning on doing I’m just wondering if the mig/tig filler will show up after I blue them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 If it does and you've relined all around both slots, it will look like you did it on purpose. It's a feature, not a bug! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 Colour mismatch Depends on the filler material and the spur material. As JHCC says; if you both to match it's a design feature! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pancho07 Posted November 9, 2017 Author Share Posted November 9, 2017 I spose that’s one way of looking at it haha. My biggest worry is I’m already losing money time wise. I just had an idea though, fill the divot and wrap the shanks in copper with some decorative ingraving on it. Then the fill won’t show up at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 Before anything else, I'd get in touch with the customer and ask if he wants them blued. If no, you're fine. If yes, do a test on a piece of scrap and a spot weld to see how well it looks. If it's okay, it's okay. If it's not, consider the copper wrap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swedefiddle Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 Good Morning, Another day of life lessons!! Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pancho07 Posted November 9, 2017 Author Share Posted November 9, 2017 Here’s what I’m working with. I’m thinking I might be able to just cut that back to the back of the divot and be good. That side is too thick anyway. Took a step back and I don’t think it’s as bad as I thought it was last night. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genesaika Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 Could you drill out that spot on both and call it a clean out for any debris that accumulates? It might make the arms a bit too thin though. I'm not sure on spur design. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pancho07 Posted November 9, 2017 Author Share Posted November 9, 2017 Spurs are generally self cleaning I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted November 10, 2017 Share Posted November 10, 2017 You need a bit of slop. Spurs should spin with out binding. Your honestly not seposed to jab the horse with them. Yes opening up the side tord the notch should work well. Take a page from TP and make your own saw blades from bandsaw blades. 18TPI blades suck for thick stock. 8TPI would cut much faster. As a horseman I prefer the larger rawls and would there for suggest cutting the slots dealer on all sources to accomidate them. Bidder rawls are less severe. You can always go smaller with out modifications, but to go larger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pancho07 Posted November 10, 2017 Author Share Posted November 10, 2017 I just opened that side up some more and while not perfect looks a lot better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted November 10, 2017 Share Posted November 10, 2017 2 hours ago, Pancho07 said: I just opened that side up some more and while not perfect looks a lot better Picture? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pancho07 Posted November 11, 2017 Author Share Posted November 11, 2017 I’ll put one up this weekend I’m planning on doing another pass with the file first though. Asked him what finish he wanted and said to leave them silver so that will make things easier, just fill in and polish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JNewman Posted November 11, 2017 Share Posted November 11, 2017 Radiusing the corners will get rid of most if not all the weld on the visible face. You will still have weld on the inside edge but that face is hidden by the round piece (rowel ??). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pancho07 Posted November 12, 2017 Author Share Posted November 12, 2017 I’m going to just fill the top an bottom divot to hide it. It will probably eventually wear through but I’m not too worried about it after a normal wear in period. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.