Tzelik Hammar Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 I'm working out a plant to make a war hammer, but I want it to be triangular (including the back spike). I have everything figured out except how to draw the taper out. Closest I can figure is drawing it square and then trying to angle it with diagonal blows. Is this how to do it or is there a better way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 You need to make a swage. I've never had any luck forging triangle "bar" unless it was very flattened. The swage block I have has an equilateral triangle V swage. It's that or a right triangle by forging into the step on my anvil. If I needed one I'd either weld one up or forge and grind an equilateral top chisel and drive it into a piece of REALLY HOT stock. The dress it with sander and files. Now I'm hoping someone who actually knows how to forge a triangle taper speaks up, I'll be watching. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Coke Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 Greetings Randell, Your kinda all over on your projects .. Hand forging a tapered triangle I'm sure is possible but it would take forever... i have done it before but I cheated... It's simple .. Just forge a tapered square then cut in half on the diagonal With a band saw.. Post some pictures or drawings of your completed projects or drawings it would help with suggestions.. Forge on and make beautiful things Jim Hows dat Frosty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Judson Yaggy Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 Yup, triangle swage is the best way. You can also forge a round taper, set it into the step of the anvil horn, and forge the taper with a cross pien and drive the round stock into the V of the step. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tzelik Hammar Posted September 14, 2017 Author Share Posted September 14, 2017 I'm kinda all over in my projects because I have years of backlogged ideas eating at my brain and I love learning new techniques. Couple that with how much fun i have forging just about anything and I bounce from project to project like a pinball. I have 2 knives in various stages of finishing, my first "forge to finish" knife to heat treat, and 3 other projects on Deck: the hammer, an axe, and a tanto style blade for a friend. I have an aggressive take on the learning curve, a pile of supplies, and no shame in failing. Speaking of failing, every forge session I attempt to make tongs. Something about them hates me and I have yet to forge a good solid functional set from scratch. Looks like a brief break until I figure out how to make a swage block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 You don't need to make a swage block; just a swage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 MAN you old farts are tricky Jim! It's a good one. I've had better luck deliberately forging a rombused square taper for an awl so cutting it corner to corner is . . . Good Dat. Another thought for a swage. A while ago I wanted to forge hollow faces on a square taper and came up with a semi successful proof of concept spring swage. I put a hair pin bend in 1/2" rd stock and welded them to my old stand by spring swage spring and shank thingy. Doing similar for a triangular taper would be easy, the bottom die would be the hair pin and the top die would be a single. Ah your message just loaded Randell. You and I could be dangerous if we lived close enough to interact, I like to say my interests are eclectic to the point of schizophrenia. AND there's Thomas with my next suggestion, make swages forget the block! Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 When I'm making a gunner's stiletto I generally find a 3 sided file and go from there. My warhammer is 4 sided...like the ones I based it off of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 Why did't I think of a 3 sided file? There you go Randell, buy a 3 sided file and you can file a swage! Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tzelik Hammar Posted September 14, 2017 Author Share Posted September 14, 2017 Excellent advice. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 Why not just weld a piece of angle iron to a hardie plate, V up. May want to support the sides if it is to get a lot of use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tzelik Hammar Posted September 14, 2017 Author Share Posted September 14, 2017 Another great idea! As to swages and swage blocks, any reason it cant be a plate like they use to hold railroad ties down with a bunch of interchangeable hardies? I would assume the mass might be a concern, but maybe just for short term until i can get my paws on a real block to shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 A lot of guys try rail plates for various things including a stake plate. I've never tried it, even in the field but I have doubts. The spike holes are only 5/8" sq. but that's not so bad, easier to forge bottom tools with a 5/8" shank. Heck use RR spikes. Mass would be an issue. Personally I'd go with a portable hole easy to build even if all you have is a hack saw and hand drill. Nuts and bolt are good joinery. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tzelik Hammar Posted September 14, 2017 Author Share Posted September 14, 2017 Ok, thanks. I welded my guillotine to one and im working on a suitable stump to attach it to, since i have a small xxxx (can i say that?) ASO. Working on turning a piece of rail into a better surface, hopefully get that done tomorrow before the weekend's forge-time. No you can not say that here I appreciate you taking the time to line me out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will W. Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 11 hours ago, Glenn said: May want to support the sides if it is to get a lot of use. The first idea that came to mind concerning this would be to take a piece of slightly larger angle iron and fitting your actual swage piece inside of it, then arc weld the two together, thereby doubling the thickness and rigidity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 If you're going to weld then laying two pieces of angle iron in contact side to side makes a much more solid swage. You can also prop the outside edge up to achieve a more acute swage. It all welds solid if you put it on a plate. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 Two pieces of round stock tacked to a plate will suport the 2nd and 3rd side wile you hit the 1sr. Keep rotating. Round your square taper first. You will get a hexagon first, then as you now have appropriate flats you can work back and forth on the anvil and the round stock. A pair of bolt heads or nuts may also be helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tzelik Hammar Posted September 15, 2017 Author Share Posted September 15, 2017 Excellent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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