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I Forge Iron

Removing lead paint from salvaged stock


JHCC

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As noted elsewhere, I just rescued a bunch of pieces of WI flat bar from the chapel roof renovation job at the college where I work. Most of this was from protected locations and is quite clean, but some (that were exposed to the weather) appear to have been painted with what I suspect (given the original 1908 construction date) was lead paint. 

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I thought about burning it off in the forge, but I don't want to create any health hazards by putting lead oxide in the air. I've got some paint stripper, but that stuff is really nasty. Anyone have any environmentally friendly suggestions?

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I've used 3M "Safest Stripper" to remove 3 coats of old 1950's oil based enamel from furniture. I brushed on a thick coat and let it sit over night. In the morning I brushed a little more on areas that had started to dry, went and ate breakfast, came back and scraped off the three layers. As the stripper is water based I used hot water and a scrub brush to remove the last stubborn bits. Check with your local regulations on disposal. Here we have to let the scrapped off goo dry and then wrap in a couple of layers of 4 mil poly and it can go in the weekly trash pickup.

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3 hours ago, JHCC said:

appear to have been painted with what I suspect (given the original 1908 construction date) was lead paint.

From my experience while in the USCG stationed on lighthouses it looks like red lead primer to me. When we had to remove it for repainting we used a chipping hammer and hand wire brush. Some of that paint was a half inch thick on the stations that were built in the 1800s. I would try that first wearing a dust mask. What little that is left probably would not create a problem to be burned off in an open fire.

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Well, I am no expert but I cast my own projectiles out of wheel weights and either silver solder or pewter when I can get ahold of it. But anyway when I melt my lead I work in a ventilated area (outside) and I wear my respirator and so far Im still alive and kicking. But in my experience if you are uncomfortable doing something it is best to go with your gut.

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There's a place one town over from where I live. I just sent them an email and am waiting for a reply. Thanks for the tip.

ADDENDUM: They're asking $140 for the sandblasting, which strikes me as a bit pricey for my budget. I'm going to contact the town sanitation department to ask their rules on lead paint residue disposal.

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27 minutes ago, Tommie Hockett said:

What did you figure out JHCC? Im curious

I haven't yet decided on a stripping method*, but I am confident that it's safe (and legal!**) to dispose of the residue in the trash.

*leaning towards a long soak in Simple Green.

**at least in Ohio.

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I am no expert on a lead hammer but, if it needs to be hard add pewter to wheel weights when you melt them down. It adds antimony.....(i think thats what its called^_^) which makes it stronger and harder. If you go up to your local tire shop with a bucket they will normally fill it up for $10 or there abouts with used wheel weights... donut rule still applies if you want an ongoing relationship with them lol.

Sorry for the long post I got excited to talk about something on here that I have a working knowledge of lmbo:lol:.

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4 hours ago, Glenn said:

What about the paint stripping materials (chemicals and mixes) that are available. Put it on, let it loosen the paint, and wipe or scrape it off.

Mentioned it in the original post, @Glenn! ;)

 

6 hours ago, Tommie Hockett said:

I am no expert on a lead hammer but, if it needs to be hard add pewter to wheel weights when you melt them down. 

 The current plan is to use a section of heavy-wall square tube with a thick plate welded on either end, with the space in the middle filled with lead. In other words, the steel provides the strength, and the lead provides the weight. 

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UPDATE: Just spoke with my town's Director of Public Works, who tells me that the only regulations the town has on the disposal of hazardous materials is: "Nothing that's prohibited by state or federal law". In other words, the Ohio EPA rule that lead paint residue is okay to dispose of in household trash is okay by them.

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18 hours ago, Tommie Hockett said:

I am no expert on a lead hammer but, if it needs to be hard add pewter to wheel weights when you melt them down. It adds antimony....

Most of the old wheel weights had antimony to begin with, they were not pure lead. A friend of mine who probably cast a ton of bullets over his lifetime would add wheel weights to pure lead to get the hardness up. Today a lot of wheel weights are zinc due to environmental issues with lead, and the ones my friend has in his motorcycle shop are coated steel. 

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3 hours ago, BIGGUNDOCTOR said:

Most of the old wheel weights had antimony to begin with, they were not pure lead. Today a lot of wheel weights are zinc due to environmental issues with lead, and the ones my friend has in his motorcycle shop are coated steel. 

True however I like to add more to the mix I find it improves my accuracy. However eveyone that reloads does things different as the saying goes there is more than one way to skin a cat. Also I have ran across the coated steel and the zinc weights before. I hate them they throw me off waiting on them to melt lol. I have started to check them with pliers so I know whats what. Dents mean they get melted no dents mean they get thrown in a bucket. But so far I am still able to get lead ones I got 2 five gallon buckets full a month or so back.

 

59 minutes ago, ThomasPowers said:

 What's really missed is linotype; excellent for hardening bullets and hard to find these days.

Never heard of linotype before. I will have to look into that!

 

8 hours ago, JHCC said:

The Ohio EPA rule that lead paint residue is okay to dispose of in household trash is okay by them.

Great news!!!!!

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1 hour ago, Tommie Hockett said:

Never heard of linotype before. I will have to look into that!

It was used for old printing presses and an even harder type is monotype. I have about 150 lbs of each from a printing shop that went to all electronic printing. Pure linotype will make good rifle bullets and added to pure lead good pistol bullets. I have reloaded and cast my own for 50 years. I have about 70 different caliber molds. Most of the stick on wheel weights are pure lead which I use for my muzzleloaders.

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