CHUCK M Posted August 18, 2017 Author Share Posted August 18, 2017 On 8/18/2017 at 4:28 PM, Charles R. Stevens said: You need to dress that cross pein... Dressed the face, pein is on to do list.... On 8/18/2017 at 3:41 PM, arkie said: Chuck, in lieu of taking classes, have you checked into any blacksmithing clubs or organizations in your area? There is a New Jersey blacksmith association, but only checked the website out briefly...will be hard to find the time but plan on looking into further Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arkie Posted August 19, 2017 Share Posted August 19, 2017 4 hours ago, Charles R. Stevens said: You need to dress that cross pein... No cross dressing allowed on this site........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted August 19, 2017 Share Posted August 19, 2017 No one cares if you forge in a dress, arkie. Men have been doing so for mellinia. Chuck, I would recommend about a 1" radie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 19, 2017 Share Posted August 19, 2017 I don't know Charles, folk who've seen Arkie's legs might care. Lou: The martial arts teaches you to index using your skeleton and it can be applied to virtually anything else. Keep those elbows IN! Sensei barks. When I'm having to develop real power in my blows I forge in a front stance. For regular work I'm in a ready stance. Funny how that works eh? Chuck: Don't try to apply all that advice at once and take your time all rushing will do for you is make your mistakes permanent faster. Most importantly have a good time this really is fun. I believe Brian Brazeal has a good leaf video, Youtube I think. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lou L Posted August 19, 2017 Share Posted August 19, 2017 I used to copy an open handed style my cousin used (he was ranked the #2 amateur black belt in the country by Black Belt Magazine or some such, and my sense I would walk past me in class and whack my loose hand and I would punch myself in the face. Those lessons stick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 19, 2017 Share Posted August 19, 2017 Heh, Heh, Heh. I think Senseis are the same everywhere. One of Sensei little Bill's favorites was to thrust kick which ever leg was out of position and give you a little bump on the shoulder. It illustrated why a good stance is a good way to not lay on the ground. I think we all socked ourselves in the nose a few times. Even after 30+ years out of the arts the reflexes are still there, not up to snuff but still there. For some reason we never did figure out one of the guys I used to work with lost his temper and poked me hard in the chest. The look on his face when I didn't so much as quiver while his finger bend over backwards was a Kodak moment. Neither he nor the other two guys there noticed how I raised myself at the moment of impact so his finger had to bend. I didn't do anything consciously, pure reflex. Our dojo was a self defense club we didn't follow A style it was a deliberate mixture of what worked best in the owner's evaluation. It was mostly Kempo and Shotokan. Kempo for the philosophy of deflection and misdirection and Shotokan for some power and straight up the middle when it was time. My hammering technique is pure Kempo, fluid, round motion and snap on impact. My grip is an adaptation of a fencer's grip and gives my swing another pivot point. Every pivot is a force multiplier and my grip isolates my joints and bones from the impact energies. Sorry Chuck, we're not really hijacking your post we're just chatting till you ask your next question. Think of this place like a big cocktail party. Yeah, like I've EVER been to a cocktail party. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted August 19, 2017 Share Posted August 19, 2017 Amazing how those hard wone reflexes have kept me out of the hospital around horses and other less than safe things I do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHUCK M Posted August 19, 2017 Author Share Posted August 19, 2017 On 8/19/2017 at 1:46 PM, Frosty said: Sorry Chuck, we're not really hijacking your post we're just chatting till you ask your next question. Think of this place like a big cocktail party. Yeah, like I've EVER been to a cocktail party. It's all good....enjoying the conversation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lou L Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 My dojo was similar. We focused on self defense and weren't allowed to fight outside of the dojo. My sparring partner was bowed out of class for having been in a fight that was instigated by someone else. Sensei believed fighting was always a choice made long before the fight happens. We focused on three styles: Savate (French kick boxing for stand up, long range defense), jiu jitsu (for close, aggressive defense), and aikido (for philosophy and body control). I miss those days. I don't miss running in place while sensei delivered stomach blows that's sent you backwards so you could run up for your next hit. That sort of martial arts school would be sued into oblivion now. I gues, in keeping with this thread, it's important to have structure to your movements at the anvil. In the dojo we practiced easily twenty different defenses for the basic roundhouse punch thousands of times each with the intent that just one of them would become a reflex. The same goes for hitting metal at the anvil. I'm still getting the reps I need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHUCK M Posted August 24, 2017 Author Share Posted August 24, 2017 Finally got out to the shop tonight, after over a week of not forging. Was going to give the 2 sided taper/leaf project another try, but this time take all the advice given, really worked on stance, rhythm, and not bring the hammer down like Thor....and wow couldn't believe how much of an easier time I had, at no point did I feel like I was fighting it. Didn't set any speed records and took many many heats but I could not be happier with the results of my leaf shaped object...started with 3/8 sq. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lou L Posted August 24, 2017 Share Posted August 24, 2017 Wow, nice job. You need to make a small tool from an old chisel to put the veins in. Basically just round off the end a little si it isn't too sharp. The you can add texture to your leaf. A narrow pein on a hammer works as well. I bet that felt good, eh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted August 24, 2017 Share Posted August 24, 2017 Well done Chuck! You're catching on quickly. A little practice and I see nice heart key fobs in that general profile. A couple dull file make good veiners I made my center veiner a little larger and rounder, the lateral veins can be smaller and sharper. Not sharp but sharpER. If you want a drip edge draw a sharp thin tip on the preform. Serrated leaf edges can be made with a bolt as the die. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHUCK M Posted August 24, 2017 Author Share Posted August 24, 2017 11 hours ago, Lou L said: Wow, nice job. You need to make a small tool from an old chisel to put the veins in. Basically just round off the end a little si it isn't too sharp. The you can add texture to your leaf. A narrow pein on a hammer works as well. I bet that felt good, eh? i have a coil spring that i am planning on making some chisels, punches, and fullers from...in due time. 1 hour ago, Frosty said: Well done Chuck! You're catching on quickly. A little practice and I see nice heart key fobs in that general profile. A couple dull file make good veiners I made my center veiner a little larger and rounder, the lateral veins can be smaller and sharper. Not sharp but sharpER. If you want a drip edge draw a sharp thin tip on the preform. Serrated leaf edges can be made with a bolt as the die. Frosty The Lucky. i was having some problem with the original tapering i believe its call fish lipping? also, are you talking about hammering bolt onto the edges of the leaf or vice versa? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted August 24, 2017 Share Posted August 24, 2017 Point the work first and work the tapper from point to body. If you aren't coming to a point, then chamfer and work the taper back. Another couple of things that will contribute to fish mouthing is heating to fast, it's possible to get the outside up to temp wile the inside is still relatively cool and using to small a hammer. I know we talk about not using to big of a hammer, but at a certain point you have to have enugh mass to move the inside of the stock. It's not unlike bumping a stud wall into place with a sledge. Not even a dent, wile using a framing hammer will tear up the studs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHUCK M Posted September 2, 2017 Author Share Posted September 2, 2017 On 8/24/2017 at 12:20 PM, Charles R. Stevens said: I have tried a few different things to no avail, but if I just quickly dress the sharp cornea on the metal prior to forging seems to do the trick. Been out to the workshop (I think I can call it a shop now?) twice more....1st was to heat up and finish up the quick v-bit tongs, definitely needed them for the next projects. I have a coil spring that I cut into sections, forged a little neck knife that came out ok, a 3/16 and 3/8 round punch, also a slot punch that's not fully finished yet. When the slot punch is done I will get my first experience hardening and tempering everything. Let me know what you think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted September 2, 2017 Share Posted September 2, 2017 Any hot tool, such as a slot punch or hot punch need not be heat treated as the hot steel is going to draw the temper anyway. Some folks do, and will quench the tool every 2-3 hits. I don't care to quench spring between hits, tho a bit of bee's wax as lube is how I was taught. I don't mind quenching shaft and sucker rod, as the large mandrills get hot on the holding end, as do tongs. Obviusly a senterpunch or a blacksmiths punch and cold chisels should be heat treated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 5160 does well with just normalization; however S-7 or H-13 profit from proper heat treating as their draw temps are higher than usual working temps. (gotta love a steel whose tempering temp is in the *glowing* range!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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