the iron dwarf Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 well I think he knows best and has more years of experience than us lot so I dont think we can help any more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L0RDR4G3 Posted July 25, 2017 Author Share Posted July 25, 2017 17 minutes ago, JHCC said: The standard test for rebound is to drop a ball bearing from a known height and measure how far back up it bounces. To quote @Frosty, "Use a ruler if you're not good at eyeball guesstimating that sort of thing. The higher the % rebound the better, below 65% is pretty poor. 90% and up is outstanding. In between is decent to good." ahh okay. so i need a ball bearing. does the size of the bearing have any effect on the result? and 65% original drop height? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 Just now, L0RDR4G3 said: does the size of the bearing have any effect on the result? No. 1 minute ago, L0RDR4G3 said: and 65% original drop height? Yes, that's right. The easiest way to do this is to hold the ball bearing at the 10" mark, spot the measurement of its bounce, and multiply by ten. So, a 5" bounce = 50% rebound, a 7" bounce = 70% rebound, an 8½" bounce = 85% rebound, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the iron dwarf Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 65% is poor 1/2" to 1" would be a good size try over different parts of the table cast iron is bad cast steel CAN be good if it has a tool steel top or is made from a very good grade of steel. a decent new one can cost you over a grand but there are a million bad ones for each good one. who is the maker or is it a no name chinese import that you can get for 50 quid at the wholesaler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L0RDR4G3 Posted July 25, 2017 Author Share Posted July 25, 2017 11 minutes ago, JHCC said: No. Yes, that's right. The easiest way to do this is to hold the ball bearing at the 10" mark, spot the measurement of its bounce, and multiply by ten. So, a 5" bounce = 50% rebound, a 7" bounce = 70% rebound, an 8½" bounce = 85% rebound, etc. Okay kool will test this once i find a ball bearing. I think my son may still have some laying around his room somewhere from his old Magtastix sets . (the magnetic stick and ball building set things, i think thats what it was called) And i believe the stamp on it says Stilsen? can be certain at the moment as its locked in the shed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 If the ball bearing is magnetic, it's not going to bounce very high! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L0RDR4G3 Posted July 25, 2017 Author Share Posted July 25, 2017 lol yeah didnt think of that. need to check first. lol anyways signing off for now need to sleep for work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 26, 2017 Share Posted July 26, 2017 Large ball bearings have less trouble with pitted anvil faces; but on a clean flat face size has no effect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted July 26, 2017 Share Posted July 26, 2017 12 minutes ago, ThomasPowers said: Large ball bearings have less trouble with pitted anvil faces; but on a clean flat face size has no effect. Good point. Another advantage of a larger bearing is that if it leaves a dent, the face of the anvil is probably too soft. 21 hours ago, L0RDR4G3 said: And i believe the stamp on it says Stilsen? can be certain at the moment as its locked in the shed Some image searching online shows me an identical anvil made by "Neilsen", but I haven't found anything to reliably indicate its material or quality. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L0RDR4G3 Posted July 28, 2017 Author Share Posted July 28, 2017 On 26/07/2017 at 6:11 PM, JHCC said: Good point. Another advantage of a larger bearing is that if it leaves a dent, the face of the anvil is probably too soft. Some image searching online shows me an identical anvil made by "Neilsen", but I haven't found anything to reliably indicate its material or quality. I believe it is the Nielsen one, I bought it under the recommendation of Paul MacDonald of the Macdonald Armouries in Edinburgh been a busy week so haven't been on the computer much (or home for that matter) been lookin for a good sized ball bearing for a while to make a large monkey knuckle. biggest I have laying around are 20mm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the iron dwarf Posted July 28, 2017 Share Posted July 28, 2017 dont drop a ball bearing on that anvil any bigger than 20mm, hope you did not pay much for it, yes I know who the wholesalers and importers are of that, a bit of rail or fork lift fork would be far better, they are £69.99 but worth about £6.99 as a boat anchor or door stop. model number is CT2736 from cannon tools who import from india and china and sell tools to market traders and car booters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the iron dwarf Posted July 29, 2017 Share Posted July 29, 2017 if you bought it on a certain auction site and it was described as steel start a dispute for SNAD item significantly not as described you will get your money back and the seller will have to pay to get it sent back to them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 29, 2017 Share Posted July 29, 2017 Any offshore oil drilling scrap around? They can have very large bearings in things like cranes and drilling rigs... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the iron dwarf Posted July 29, 2017 Share Posted July 29, 2017 awaiting a delivery of 200kg plus of bearing balls ( about 1/5th of a ton ) up to 100mm dia (4" ) new ones Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L0RDR4G3 Posted July 29, 2017 Author Share Posted July 29, 2017 3 minutes ago, the iron dwarf said: if you bought it on a certain auction site and it was described as steel start a dispute for SNAD item significantly not as described you will get your money back and the seller will have to pay to get it sent back to them does it matter how long ago it was purchased? and how would you go about proving it isnt steel. most descriptions i can find for these do state steel or cast steel. also when hammering on it i havent had any issues with it. no denting or anything. so whats wrong with it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the iron dwarf Posted July 29, 2017 Share Posted July 29, 2017 yes it has to be recent drill a tiny hole in the underside of it, cast iron bbonsswarf will be powder of small flakes, steel will be longer ribbons. cannon recently got done for wrongly labeling stuff, fined £25,000 for selling things with a ce mark they should not have and I think stock was destroyed too. hit a corner or the face with the hammer at an angle our main shop anvil is in good condition but dates from 1730 ish and it gets regular heavy use and abuse, that thing would not last us a week but it is your money to spend as you like ( and I know how the scots like to spend it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 29, 2017 Share Posted July 29, 2017 touching a grinder to the base and looking at the sparks generated will also work as I can guarantee that they would NOT be using any of the high alloy (read as EXPENSIVE!) steels that produce sparks similar to cast iron! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L0RDR4G3 Posted July 29, 2017 Author Share Posted July 29, 2017 3 minutes ago, the iron dwarf said: yes it has to be recent drill a tiny hole in the underside of it, cast iron bbonsswarf will be powder of small flakes, steel will be longer ribbons. cannon recently got done for wrongly labeling stuff, fined £25,000 for selling things with a ce mark they should not have and I think stock was destroyed too. hit a corner or the face with the hammer at an angle our main shop anvil is in good condition but dates from 1730 ish and it gets regular heavy use and abuse, that thing would not last us a week but it is your money to spend as you like ( and I know how the scots like to spend it welp im screwed either way then lol. bought it way back when i started gettin stuff together to set up. so we're talkin maybe as far back as november last year. its a pain in the ass and just need to be chalked up to experience. also kills me that my neighbour 2 doors down has a great big bugger just sitting in his garden as an ornament lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 29, 2017 Share Posted July 29, 2017 Swap it out one dark night and tell him it shrunk in the rain? Offer to trade him a hand forged sundial for it? Or a garden bench? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L0RDR4G3 Posted July 29, 2017 Author Share Posted July 29, 2017 6 minutes ago, ThomasPowers said: Swap it out one dark night and tell him it shrunk in the rain? Offer to trade him a hand forged sundial for it? Or a garden bench? lol tried everything to get it from him. he got it for nothin in a house clearance but hes still not willing to give it up. theres also a full length or railway track about 5 minutes walk from me between the fence for the railway and the fence for the park. its length they took off and replaced and just left layin there. tried talkin my buddy into beingin his mobile crane from london and helpin me get it lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the iron dwarf Posted July 29, 2017 Share Posted July 29, 2017 keep looking and you will find one, use what you have got for now, look out for a large chunk of steel, even a big sledge hammer head. there is a vid of smiths in nepal making blades for kukris using a sledge hammer head between their feet as they sit on the floor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted July 29, 2017 Share Posted July 29, 2017 Score the rail with a cold set, prop it up and give it a good wack so it breaks (old school) or use a porta band to salvage pieces of that rail. Any large fabricators? A drop from a 4" plate that has had 2' circles cut out or 4' circles mane fast double horns. Even a 2" multi ball class 3 draw bar works. Your predecessors would have been thrilled with a 10# sledge or the back of a splitting maul. Lots of options. As to the forge, build a smaller unit for general work and reserve the monster for latter. A single 3/4"-1" tuyere will give you a 6" zone at forging heat, unless you have a power hammer you will run out of heat befor you can forge that much to shape. Just google Viking era forge and Viking era anvil to see what swords were forged on in your area 500 years ago. Yes Andricite will burn in a side blast forge with a steady air supply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
L0RDR4G3 Posted July 29, 2017 Author Share Posted July 29, 2017 1 hour ago, the iron dwarf said: keep looking and you will find one, use what you have got for now, look out for a large chunk of steel, even a big sledge hammer head. there is a vid of smiths in nepal making blades for kukris using a sledge hammer head between their feet as they sit on the floor yeah. its not the tool that makes the blade but wielder of the hammer. even in a pinch the concrete pillar i made to stand the anvil on is solid and steady. evrethings on the back burner again anyway as i have added more to my workload lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted July 29, 2017 Share Posted July 29, 2017 Spalding concreat is worse than flying slag. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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