Melw45

NWGS - no weld grinder

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I started a no weld grinder.

Last weekend  I hit the steel supplier.

I picked up the tube a flat stock needed.

Over the last few days i have been picking up the hardware I need as well.

First thing i had to do was cut the bad torch slag off of one end. So out came the old Harbor Freight 4x6 bandsaw.20170628_101956.thumb.jpg.cd3540b3c9b4aeca266cab8af7aa0139.jpg

Then i had to true up the cut end so the holes will be in tbe correct place.

Some grinding witn a angle grinder and filling I was ready to cut it to length.

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Back to the saw and cut to length.20170628_123025.thumb.jpg.496f1d061ccf63e7de68e3514d457cbe.jpg

I got the side holes layed out and drilled to size.

Then the mailman showed up with the bearings.

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Yes I made notes so I put the holes on the right end.;)

Thats all for now will post some more when I make some progress.

Thanks for looking!

Mel

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Thannks for the replys. i did not get to work on it today. My wife had other things for me to do.:D

Mel

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My wheels came in the mail today. They are the glass filled nylon ones.

Here is a photo I swiped from the eBay add. Nice looking.

Mel

s-l1600.jpg

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Doesn't your cut off saw cut straight? Usually it means the blade is dulled on one side or incorrectly tensioned.  Just take a wire brush and clean rag to the steel before you cut it, just a little grit will blunt the teeth and turn a blade into a wonky cutter. It's an easy precaution when cutting old steel and pays for itself in blade costs. I use a Jet 7" x 13" HV band saw all the time and blades run about $20 ea with shipping to AK. I have a cup brush on a peanut grinder that hangs out next to it. They're part of a set. I brush steel before I chuck it up, it's way less work than grinding things square and to dimension afterwards. My blades last WAY longer too.

Frosty The Lucky.

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On 7/6/2017 at 1:15 PM, Frosty said:

Doesn't your cut off saw cut straight?

I have adjusted it. The movable jaw on the vice had crept over and was touching the guide. Now it just takes a few strokes with the file to close up the gap.

The other thing was the stock not down flat in the vice. I have found that a bar clamp on the outside of the blade keeps that from happing.

I guess ineed more hands.

Thanks for the advice. I have some dirty tube to cut next.

Mel

On 7/6/2017 at 11:51 AM, Dylan Sawicki said:

Those are the same wheels I have on mine! There the ones from oregon blade maker right?

Yep.

Thanks for looking.

Mel

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I have made some progress yesterday.

Both uprights and the tool bar holder.

Here are some photos.

Mel

20170707_084601.jpg

20170707_084019.jpg

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Yesterday I made the tension arm and the tracking wheel parts. Today drilled the mounting brackets for the tracking assembly. I also cut the clamps.

Still need the 3/8" holes in them. Here is a photo.

Mel

 

20170709_201043.jpg

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On 7/6/2017 at 1:08 PM, Melw45 said:

I have adjusted it. The movable jaw on the vice had crept over and was touching the guide. Now it just takes a few strokes with the file to close up the gap.

The other thing was the stock not down flat in the vice. I have found that a bar clamp on the outside of the blade keeps that from happing.

I guess ineed more hands.

Thanks for the advice. I have some dirty tube to cut next.

Mel

Yep.

Thanks for looking.

Mel

 

Wouldn't you know it, I had a simple piece not line up properly and took a square to it to see why. Turns out the vise jaw on my cut off had moved or been bumped out of square by a couple degrees. Thinking back I'm pretty sure I bumped it loading a piece of heavy stock a while back. I have a couple roll helpers and they make it easy to bump the saw. 

A protractor square should be on or right next to a cut off saw. Checking only takes a couple seconds, pay back comes with the first piece you don't have to grind square. Here's a kicker, I had to hunt for my square and a light so I could see the gap in the vise's heal jaw. <sigh>

Frosty The Lucky.

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Frosty

Glad you found the problem.

I finshed drilling the 1x 1/8 bars for the clamps. No photos today.

I also started the tool arm.

Then had to run some errands so i will drill more tomarrow.

Mel

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It's a little embarrassing it was out of square, I usually check it pretty often. At least it didn't bite me in the butt, it must've been a good Karma day. 

Frosty The Lucky.

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A pic of the latest parts. Allmost time to put it togather.

Still need to cut the keyway in the drive shaft and deside about the step pullys.

Mel

20170716_091959.jpg

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No photos today. Just cut the tubing for the tool rest. Still need to drill some holes and tap some threads. 

Mel

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Made a bunch of progress over the last couple of days.

Made the parts for the table and cut some ugly keyways in the drive shaft.

I now have a large pile of parts.20170720_185236.thumb.jpg.6ea583188a65624a1a8d98c4cc71d4d1.jpg

Next I did a test assembly.

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Staaarting to look like a grinder.

Thanks for looking.

Mel

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Will do.

I have identified some areas that need adjusting.  the angle iron i used was larger then called for and needs some relief cut in.

Next is to take it apart and paint it then do the final assambley with the lock nuts and washers.

Still need to find the step pulleys.

I am thinking about the pillow blocks. I might add some angle iron to the back to spread them out.

Thanks for looking.

Mel

 

 

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I picked up a Harbor Freight farm duty 1 hp motor. This is the dust proof one. Saves me the work of building a filter system for the motor.

I had a 25% off coupon that sweetened the deal.

Progress continues. 

Mel

 

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Today I pulled the grinder apart and addressed some issues I found in the test assambly.

The first was the fit of the platen.

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As you can see in this photo it is proud of the large plate.20170726_103748.thumb.jpg.6f7307010134078d8a30794c2a87cf3e.jpg

The bolt heads are pressed on the angle iron. 20170726_110313.thumb.jpg.1952b071f255ffb2bf124ea4fffb594f.jpg

I drilled two new holes to fix the problem.20170726_110747.thumb.jpg.202558cf87306609ecbba2daee527146.jpg

in this photo you can see the screw adjuster for the tracking wheel. Near as I can tell I let the tap cut the threads at a angle.

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After some drilling and file work it now passes through.

As you can see in the other photos some of my tubing came from some rusty stock.

I would welcome any advise on removing it before painting.

I was thinking wire wheel might do the trick.

Thanks

Mel

Edited by Melw45
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The wire wheel cleaned mmost of the rust off the parts.

Today I finished  priming the parts that I will be painting.

Guess i will need to start thinking about some belts.

Thanks for looking.

Mel

 

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Looking good.  You've probably seen this before, but imho the ceramic belts are worth the extra cost.  They cut better, run cooler, and last longer than the alternatives so the up front cost is more than offset by the performance.

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