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I would imagine this has been asked so many times but I'm not seeing my questions I need answered.  I am contemplating building a small gas forge and have a Freon tank as my shell. I have made a 3/4" burner using 1 1/4" to 3/4" reducer as my inlet end and a 1" to 3/4" reducer as my nozzle . In testing it throws a nice flame. What should I line this tank with that will stand up for some time? I have made some liquid glass and sand mixture for refectory in a char coal burner, would this work? I see some use the wool stuff but I have no experience with it. How thick would I have to line this thing? I have watched some YouTube videos for ideas for the outside design but the inside I'm at a standstill. Thank you Guys

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2" thickness 8# density 2600 degree insulating blanket, colloidal silica rigidizer, 1/2-1" thickness Kastolite 30 on the walls, 1/2" Mizzou on floor and opposite burner port.  Of course you could do something else entirely if you don't want to use a forge the way I do.

Door design is critical. 

No idea if your homemade burner will perform in the size forge you outline.  Good rule of thumb seems to be a 3/4" NA propane burner is good for up to 300 cubic inches of interior volume or so, but what you believe is a "good flame" may not be.

No your homemade refractory will not work if you are looking for thermal efficiency and longevity.  Yes this has been answered many times, please read back in the gas forge forum for more detail.

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Check out Wayne Coe's site. there are supplies and materials in small quantities at reasonable prices so you don't have to buy a 50lb. sack of refractory. He also has good plans for a propane forge and burner plans.

Your proposal for refractory is a poor one even though you see people using it and worse mixes online. As Latticino says, two 1" layers of rigidized ceramic blanket refractory for the outer, insulating liner and 1/2" - 1" hard castable high alumina refractory for the inner liner, flame face for durability and chemical erosion resistance. A final kiln wash with an IR re radiating material is icing on the cake.

This is discussed here almost constantly so there are hundreds of posts archived in the gas forge section of Iforge. Virtually any question you have has Probably been answered repeatedly ad to length. It's well worth pulling up a comfy chair beverages, snacks and doing some reading. I'm not saying this because I don't want to answer questions I just prefer answering better questions. The more you know the better your questions and the easier it will be for you to understand the answers.

Frosty The Lucky.

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I suggest that you start out checking out the Build a Gas Forge on the Forge Supplies page at www.WayneCoeArtistBlacksmith.com.  For a Freon tank forge you would need:

1' of Inswool

3 bags of Kast-0-Lite and

one pint of Metrikote.

This is certainly not the only way to build a gas forge but it a way that I have found to be a good, efficient, long lasting forge.

Let me know if I can help you.  You can send an e-mail.


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The others have covered things pretty well, but have touched on the burner a little too gently. The problem is that a 3/4" burner in that small a space is going to need to be turned down to the lower end of its range; when you do that most burners tend to produce a softer flame, and with most burner designs the flame then also becomes more reducing. None of this causes insurmountable problems; rather they are irritating tendencies that can be countered. I will assume you built something like a Reil burner? If so, go back to his burner pages, and you will see that he used a 1-1/2" x 3/4" reducer. You can read about the Tweeco tip modification, which involved changing to a  2" x 3/4" reducer and inserting a tapered Tweeco MIG contact tip in the side hole of the gas pipe. By changing between .023" and .030" contact tips you can manipulate the flame between hard and very hard; tweaking it to to nicely manage such a large burner in such a small forge. The best part is that you can do most of these changes before you need to install the new assembly on the burner's end; all of them if you make a second gas pipe:)

If you position the burner tangentially in the forge, you don't need a flame nozzle. The smaller reduce fitting does work as a flame nozzle, but only in a very limited way, since it cannot be adjusted; therefore it is of no value to you inside the forge.

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