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Forgemaster 2000, Double Burner Forge


Scrambler82

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Hello to all, warm or cold, it is about 75 here in SoCal and going to the 80's today.

Here where I live at 2000 ft there is a nice breeze to keep things cool.

When I built my barn people asked why I pointed it toward the prevailing winds...  to keep things cool, the breeze blows in the large front doors and out the roof vents.

Anyway...  I was looking at the Forgemaster Forges and was wondering about anyone opinions f Forgemaster itself and the Forgemaster 2000, see pic below.

image.jpeg

I am 70 years old and do not want to build a forge, I do not want to lug around coal or make my own charcoal, I just want something to heat up small pieces of steel to make small ornamental items,  max bar size will probably be around 1" rd stock, maybe a little larger, maybe some flat stock too.

As an Amatuer Radio Operator I was an appliance operator, that's a person who uses prebuilt radio and does not tinker with them, so I am headed in the same direct when bending metal, the end result !

Anyways... I am looking for a decent forge I can do my small stuff in and if needed some larger pieces and was hoping to find a GREAT pre made forge so I can get started.

I HAVE READ A LOT OF POSTINGS AND THREADS ON THE SITE and can not pin point what I really need but I am getting closer to actually forging here in SoCal now that the new shop is up.

 

Thanks ahead of time for any comments about the forge posted or any other forge or about me and my methods... go for it !

ltr

p.s.   I just checked the temperture...  83 going to 87...  Sorry I stand corrected !

 

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If you have been reading much lately about turn-key forges here, you should know that Chile forge and Diamondback forges are about the only models that consistently get good reviews. If you aren't using a hydraulic or air hammer, the prices on Diamondback will probably seem more reasonable; they are also considered easy to maintain by their owners. I am sure you can find someone who likes Forgemaster forges, if you look long and hard enough; just my two cents worth.

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4 hours ago, Mikey98118 said:

If you have been reading much lately about turn-key forges here, you should know that Chile forge and Diamondback forges are about the only models that consistently get good reviews. If you aren't using a hydraulic or air hammer, the prices on Diamondback will probably seem more reasonable; they are also considered easy to maintain by their owners. I am sure you can find someone who likes Forgemaster forges, if you look long and hard enough; just my two cents worth.

Thks, I will look at the Diamondback brand a little more.

 

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I used a diamond back for a couple of years before I burned the box up after relining it several times.  I do a lot of cable Damascus and that's messy.  I still use the burners in another brick forge that is even better insulated that the original.  It can get hot enough to red short 52100 bearing steel.

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My problem is I read TOO much !  Get too much info, can't keep it all in, all I need is a good simple forge, easy to set up and use.

I was just reading about the Devil Forge, so far they seem like a nice simple but efficient forge and can be purchased in 1, 2, and up burners.

Guess I need to read more.

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I have suggested some of the Devil Forges featured on eBay give the customers their mony's worth; those were the tunnel forges without gas hose and regulator; since then they have come up with a method to use their hoses and regulators on fittings pretty much around the world. Also, since then they have introduced an oval forge that looks to be worth the money.

I still don't approve of their box shaped forges. I think they are over priced. If you buy one of their tunnel or oval forges, you will still need to add brick baffles, or some other means to partially enclose their ends. I would also strongly recommend rigidizing their ceramic blanket insulation, and sealing the wall surface with a hard coating from Wayne. In other words the forge models that are good deals cannot also be considered as turn-key. 

 

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For what you're going to be doing, a one-burner forge is plenty big enough.  A two-burner wouldn't be bad for the larger things that might come along during your next few years of learning.  However, a three-burner is simply far too much forge unless you're heat-treating long blades.  I can't remember the last time I used the third burner on my forge.

Stay away from Majestic forges.  Inefficient, etc.

The key things I've found are the size of the openings on the ends.  While having the side door is nice, having an end that opens to a good size really makes things easy to work with.  That end opening should be around 3x5 so you can get small scrolls in and out easily.  You don't want something too big because it will just let the heat out when you're doing your little work like warming up the end of a bar for making a bottle opener.

Everything's a toss up.  Balancing the good with the bad, trying to find that decent middle ground, is the fun part.

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Ok been reading too much, confused... whittled it down to two manufacturers... Diamondback and Chile, although the Devil Forge  was a close third.

I did a search on Diamondback Forges, every review was good to great, never a bad one.

The two burner blacksmith forge looks like a nice one and would allow for my growth without changing the forge AND the price is under $500.00 and shipped to SoCal around $600.00.

The Chile Forges look good and have good reviews but the prices are double the Diamondback.  I like the Cheyenne Oval, 2 -burner, is interesting and I read somewhere that the oval has better flame travel; after adding a stand, extra floor plate and door opening brick... Price shipped to SoCal is around $1500.00, ouch, a little over my budget !

For what it is worth, based on opinions here and reviews both here and on other sights out there in Web Land, I will be buying a Diamondback Forge.  Probably the 2-burner blacksmith Forge.

Thanks to all for your comments and guidance.

 

 

 

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Mikey98118,

You mentioned in another thread about coating the interior of the ceramic board with a material but I did not catch what !

Could you direct me to the proper thread or material, please ?

Also, I believe the front door or larger door, uses a different material, would the use the same coating material ?

Thanks for your time, appreciate it !

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There are several coatings that can be used; any of them will help lengthen the life of ceramic fiberboard. Two of the best are sold by Wane in small quantities. Metrikote seems to beat out Plistex, with some customers, for heat reflection. Larry prefers Plistex for toughness. I have no idea which you should prefer; you can always devil Wayne about that (Oh...what a bad old Mikey)  How many materials these coatings will work on is something else to ask Wayne about :)

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On May 3, 2017 at 9:36 PM, Mikey98118 said:

There are several coatings that can be used; any of them will help lengthen the life of ceramic fiberboard. Two of the best are sold by Wane in small quantities. Metrikote seems to beat out Plistex, with some customers, for heat reflection. Larry prefers Plistex for toughness. I have no idea which you should prefer; you can always devil Wayne about that (Oh...what a bad old Mikey)  How many materials these coatings will work on is something else to ask Wayne about :)

 

Thanks for your time !

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Plistex and Metricote are both pretty inert chemically so there shouldn't be any problems with compatibility coating any refractory.

Kiln washing metals is a different story and ITC makes specific products for "kiln washing" metals at ITC prices of course.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Thanks for the posting.

A little to late sorry, I already purchased a Diamomdback, 2 burner Blacksmith Version.

All the small shop talk up their Forges, can't blame them, but to me they all do the same thing.

Diamondack got the best reviews, most love them, and one,of the main reasons I went Diamondback was the main door is a full length piece.  The door is full length and width allowing for larger pieces to be used.

 

Again, sorry, yours looks great and would have a contender !

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14 hours ago, Scrambler82 said:

Thanks Mikey and Frosty.

I contacted Wayne and an order will be placed for the Metrikote.

Wayne told me to use a thin coat, similar to Stain, brush it on.

ltr

 

Yeah the first time I used Metrikote I misunderstood the instructions to make it like 'paint' and mixed it far too thick, this flaked off when it got hot. This time I mixed it much thinner and so far it has stayed put, in fact I fired up the relined forge yesterday and it got to forge welding temperatures pretty easily.

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1 hour ago, EnglishDave said:

Yeah the first time I used Metrikote I misunderstood the instructions to make it like 'paint' and mixed it far too thick, this flaked off when it got hot. This time I mixed it much thinner and so far it has stayed put, in fact I fired up the relined forge yesterday and it got to forge welding temperatures pretty easily.

EnglishD, 

What is the mix you used that stayed in place ?

this could help a lotofpeople !

Thanks

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59 minutes ago, Scrambler82 said:

EnglishD, 

What is the mix you used that stayed in place ?

this could help a lotofpeople !

Thanks

I just added enough water to the Metrikote poweder so it was a very thin suspension (almost like milk) and applied it in two or three coats over a few nights. The ambient temps here are high so it dried quickly between coats. This was applied over the top of a rigidized Kaowool blanket. I did also make sure to thoroughly wet the surface of the blanket with a sprayer before brushing on the Metrikote (thanks to Frosty for his advice on 'buttering' for the latter trick)

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  • 4 weeks later...
On May 8, 2017 at 3:44 PM, EnglishDave said:

I did also make sure to thoroughly wet the surface of the blanket with a sprayer before brushing on the Metrikote (thanks to Frosty for his advice on 'buttering' for the latter trick)

You are saying to spray water on the walls of the forge before applying the Metrikote ?

If so I am glad i re-read the thread.

I need to order the Metrikote, been putting it off too long.

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Yes, wet the forge walls first, "butter." It's just like laying masonry if you apply mortar to dry brick the brick flash dries the mortar and leaves a layer of dry powder that prevents the mortar from bonding. Mortar is water set it doesn't dry and make bricks stick. It's like concrete it absorbs moisture forming a hydrate and that's what sticks stuff. Metricote works the same way buttering whatever you're putting it on makes it bond much better.

Frosty The Lucky.

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