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Canedy Otto western Chief Gear replacement


magikk

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Hi Everyone,I picked up another blower a Canedy Otto Western chief.It has been pretty neglected and left out in the weather for years.After a few cans of PB Blaster and a few hours of heating bolts I got it torn down.The Phenolic gear is disintegrated.I found a post on another board and one from this board where people have replaced the phenolic gear with a steel of brass gear.Does anyone have any Info on this. The two posts I found use different gears one used a 40 tooth and the other used a 45 tooth.I figure once I get he gear carriage apart.I'll count the teeth on the gear that is in my blower.

Thanks for any info.  Mike

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You need to gather 2 other pieces of information also---diametral pitch and pressure angle.  Pressure angle is likely nothing to worry about in this case so it's probably droppable from the hunt.  14.5 degrees is standard although rarely 20 shows up in things.

Measure across the gear to about the mid-point of the teeth.  Take the tooth count divided by that measurement and you get the diametral pitch. That's the critical thing to work from on spur gears.   There are modern standards for that but sometimes the old guys didn't always follow those and made "weird" sprockets.   Standard current DP in the probable range is 24, 20,16,12 or 10.  These days, it's always even numbers. Go off the modern standards with DP and you'll likely never find a sprocket to match without a donor to give it up.

For example if you count 40 teeth and the sprocket measures 4 inches straight across to halfway up the teeth (plus just a hair), that would be 40/4 = a 10 DP sprocket.

Anyway...sounds harder than it is but once you narrow down the DP and tooth count, even Amazon now sells spur gears and you can probably find one to replace it.  You might have to face it thinner and bore it to match.  All gears which meet will have the same DP---only the tooth count will vary.  

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5 hours ago, beech said:

I've also wondered if I could get a friend with a 3d printer to make one... would it work and be strong enough?

If you use the 3D print as the master and cast the part from an appropriate material. I don't know where but phenolic resins can be cast and heat cured. Bronze would probably be a good choice but you need to finish whatever you cast.

I don't know about directly 3D printing in the finished material I understand printing metal is expensive and a half.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Hi again and thanks for the replies.I ordered a gear yesterday off of ebay. I went by another persons recommendations since there wasn't much of the phenolic gear to count teeth on.I ordered a steel gear 16pitch 40 tooth 14 1/2 degree spur gear 2.5"OD.I'll have to open up the bore to fit the shaft and maybe grind the hub down. The gear was pretty cheap so hope it works.I may have gotten ahead of myself with this anyway.Last night I got the gear carriage out and the shaft the phenolic gear sits on has another gear thats in pretty bad shape.Hopefully not bad enough hat I cant use it.I may be going to the machine shop and getting a shaft made and maybe finding a small gear to replace the bad one.I guess either pin the gear on or maybe a small weld would be ok.I guess its in for a penny in for a pound.No more buying blowers unless I can turn them when I buy them unless they are really cheap.No way of knowing how long this thing sat outside.I guess after awhile I'll at least have a supply of parts.Thanks again Mike

 

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You can get a nice print for non-wear pieces from a 3-D printer.  For example, all the knobs and mounting brackets for things like fans for my printer were printed on the printer itself.  They are reasonable quality for that kind of part.  However, for a wear part like a printed gear to drive against a metal gear, the standard 3-D printer would not make an adequately strong and wear resistant version.  Light load gears, yes.  Heavy, no.  

That's the simple answer but one could go on for pages about certain exceptions and oddball situations.  

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  • 1 month later...

Sorry to hear. I have heard about gears like that as well as gears so badly worn they are pointed at the ends.

I can only surmise you have the early version. The fellow at Georgia Museum of Agriculture posted  completely  replacing every moving component on YouTube.  Look it up. Other YouTube video  from folks  pointed out a company that sells gears and quite possibly shafts.

Yes, you can rid yourself of that plastic-like gear. My late model Royal is all original and no plastic-like gear.

You have the large free standing blower or the smaller forge mounted unit?

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Hello again,I have the large free standing unit. I got a gear to replace the phenolic gear but the shaft it mounts to has a gear machined into it and its in really bad condition as well.I thank you for the YouTube  information. I've searched there for the blower by name but didn't find much but searching for Georgia museum of AG. + blower I found the video. Thank you it should help. Thanks Mike

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  • 3 years later...

Per those amazing videos, the Canedy-Otto gear train is 50 tooth 16DP  : 12 tooth 16DP shaft shared with a 40 tooth 14DP : 12 tooth 14DP shaft shared with a 40 tooth 16DP : 12 tooth 16DP output shaft.

So overall, the speed increase is 50/12 * 40/12 * 40/12 = 46.25:1  

 

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The calculations are very close to what I counted on my recently renovated Canedy-Otto Western Chief blower.  I got about 45:1.  In my experience that is about average for hand cranked forge blowers of varying sizes and manufacturers.

My problem was that the gear train was slipping under load.  One of the smaller gears was slipping on the axle it shared with a larger gear.  I used a punch to lock the gear to the axle and it runs like a champ now.  It took me awhile to diagnose what was wrong but a post here on IFI suggested the problem and that put me down the correct track.

"By hammer and hand all arts do stand."

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