magikk

Hi again guys and thank for all the advice.I just got done welding the screw and after grinding it looks pretty good.I have a bit more work to do with the file and hopefully tonight I'll get a chance to see if it'll screw in. I hope there is some slop in the screw box on these since I'm sure it will be off some.When I thought it was cast it kind of scared me a little. Not to much of a stick welder but OK with a mig. Thanks again Mike

Ok I see what u mean now looks almost like it’s been peened. And flattened out. Well I kind of felt bad I had thought I broke it getting it apart. I gave it a few whacks with the hammer. If I can get it welded. I don’t mind spending some time with a file or maybe even the dremel tool trying to get the threads cleaned up and usable. The vise is dated 1913 it will be nice to get it back into service. I find gathering up the old tools a nice addition to the hobby. And thanks again. the knowledge base on this board is very much appreciated. Mike

The shiny parts I wire brushed to clean things up a bit. The break fits pretty close together. I doubt I ever find another one of these vices. At least not one I would pay what I’ve seen them selling for. Getting one machined would another option like you said. Hopefully i can get to a welding shop tomorrow and see what they say. When I got it I wasn’t even sure I’d ever get it loosened up. Thanks Mike

I had thought I read somewhere about them being cast. Glad it’s regular steel should be a easier fix I hope. Thanks mike

Hi everyone,after a few months and a few cans of PB blaster then Kroil penetrating oil i finally got the screws moving in the Fisher double screw vise. Unfortunately the top screw was broken in half.what would be the best way to repair this. From what I've been able to find out on the web my options are brazing it( I've been practicing but not too good yet) or weld with nickel or cast rods but I'm not good with a stick welder.if welding would be better i may have to go to a pro and have them do it.never thought I'd get it loosens up.thanks Mike

Hi again, I got the blower figured out. I had the straps that run the flywheel wound wrong. So it working fine now. May have to tighten up the drive belt and maybe a new handle about a foot longer. I’ll be forging this weeend with it though. Thanks for the help guys. It is very much appreciated. No one I know has any knowledge about this stuff and I’m learning as I go. Here’s an updated video. Thanks Mike

Sorry if I'm asking dumb questions.I've just never seen one of these in action.I couldn't even find a YouTube video. So would it be normal to load the handle by turning the flywheel by hand until the leather winds tight then pull the handle each time I need air. Thanks Mike

Hi again, I have a question and hopeful someone can help. I just got around to putting new leather belts on the blower and it not working as I should. If I understand how it’s supposed to work as one of the leather straps on the flywheel unwind the other strap would wind and in the process move the lever up and down. Right now it spins one way and seems to click and freewheel in the other. Should there be a drive pin in the flywheel so it moves the same in both directions. I’ll attach a short video showing what it’s doing. Thanks for any help. Mike if the video isn’t allowed I apologize

Thanks guys for the info.I figure one just spraying with PB Blaster for a month or so before I mess with it.Nice to know what make and model.Thanks Judson .This was the first one of these I've seen in person and at first didn't realize it was a double screw. The guy wanted $40 and i got him to $30 so I got a great deal.We go to the flea market every Sunday when they are open and very seldom do I ever find anything. So I guess I was due. Thanks Mike

Thanks for the info .I was really happy to find it. I almost walked away from it but glad I went back.Thanks Mike

Hi everyone,I went to the flea market yesterday morning and I got a good deal on a double screw vise.It has 6" jaws and it is locked up tight for now.Guy said he got it out of a scrap pile.I figure on spraying it daily with PB Blaster and hoping I can get it loose. I've read the older thread on double chain vises and see that it used what is called detachable chain.Does anyone know what size chain.It also looks like the lower screw may be bent but not sure.Hope it is salvageable.Thanks Mike

Hi everyone.I went to the local flea market yesterday (glad spring is getting here.It's been along winter) and I found a Champion blower with the flywheel .It is in really nice condition.I got the blower spinning once I cleaned out the black walnut shells ( squirrels stash them everywhere) I'll have to get new leather for belts and make a wooden handle.Does anyone know how long the handle should be? I'm assuming its counter balanced by the weight.So would it would matter how heavy it is.I also can't seem to find much info as far as production dates .So any info would be appreciated.Thanks Mike

Hello again,I have the large free standing unit. I got a gear to replace the phenolic gear but the shaft it mounts to has a gear machined into it and its in really bad condition as well.I thank you for the YouTube information. I've searched there for the blower by name but didn't find much but searching for Georgia museum of AG. + blower I found the video. Thank you it should help. Thanks Mike

Hi again and thanks for the replies.I ordered a gear yesterday off of ebay. I went by another persons recommendations since there wasn't much of the phenolic gear to count teeth on.I ordered a steel gear 16pitch 40 tooth 14 1/2 degree spur gear 2.5"OD.I'll have to open up the bore to fit the shaft and maybe grind the hub down. The gear was pretty cheap so hope it works.I may have gotten ahead of myself with this anyway.Last night I got the gear carriage out and the shaft the phenolic gear sits on has another gear thats in pretty bad shape.Hopefully not bad enough hat I cant use it.I may be going to the machine shop and getting a shaft made and maybe finding a small gear to replace the bad one.I guess either pin the gear on or maybe a small weld would be ok.I guess its in for a penny in for a pound.No more buying blowers unless I can turn them when I buy them unless they are really cheap.No way of knowing how long this thing sat outside.I guess after awhile I'll at least have a supply of parts.Thanks again Mike

Hi Everyone,I picked up another blower a Canedy Otto Western chief.It has been pretty neglected and left out in the weather for years.After a few cans of PB Blaster and a few hours of heating bolts I got it torn down.The Phenolic gear is disintegrated.I found a post on another board and one from this board where people have replaced the phenolic gear with a steel of brass gear.Does anyone have any Info on this. The two posts I found use different gears one used a 40 tooth and the other used a 45 tooth.I figure once I get he gear carriage apart.I'll count the teeth on the gear that is in my blower. Thanks for any info. Mike

Thanks for the comments. I know I have a long way to go.I'm going to start on maybe number four this weekend and just keep at it until I get it right.Mike

Hi again I thought I'd post up some pics of Knife 2 & 3. They where both forged from car coil spring quenched in oil and tempered on a hot brick on my forge.Which I know now from my last post, wasn't the proper way of doing things.Thanks Thomas Powers for that info. I ordered Steve Sells book last night an "Introduction to knife making" so hopefully I can avoid some future mistakes.The handle on the Dirk is maple and tongue oil.I wasn't happy with the color of the stain but it was an improvement over Knife number one. The pommel and bolster where cast on the handle using pewter. Knife number three has a hickory handle that I charred with a torch and used some linseed oil to seal it. I also cast the bolster on this one too. So please critique my work. So I can become better at this .Thanks Mike

Thanks for the advice .I admit I didn't research the tempering process enough.I've been doing some reading since the last post and I understand that I should have cleaned the blade so I could watch the color of the blade.I ended up doing it with the brick since I didn't have an oven to use in the shop.The blade got hard a file would skate off but I understand now i have no idea if its to hard or soft.One thing learned today. Thanks mike

Hi again and thanks for the comments. I placed the blade on the hot brick on the forge. Immediately after quenching the blade. So as far as color it was still black from the oil. Should I have cleaned the blade before tempering? I have an old toaster oven now but if it doesn't fit. Would using the hot bricks over the coal fire ove obj the sufficient? Thanks mike

Hi Guys first of all I'd like to thank everyone who posts on IFI for the great wealth of knowledge. My name is mike I'm from central PA. I've always been interested in blacksmithing since I was kid and I've always liked knives so now that I'm older 49 I have the opportunity to pursue this new hobby. I've been reading the site since last summer and I have learned a lot and have a lot more to learn. I started making wall hooks and s hooks and some tools.This is my first attempt at a knife.It turned out pretty rough but it cut well.I used it to skin a deer and it held it edge and it was satisfying to know that I had made it. I used a car coil spring for the blade and some scrap wood for the handles and brazing rod for the pins. I had a hard time getting the bevels even but I'm sure with enough practice I'll get better. I heated to non magnetic and quenched in vegetable oil.To temper I set a fire brick on the fire in my coal forge to get hot and set the blade on the brick over night while the fire burned out.Maybe not the best but I had oven.Thanks Mike

I did watch the video on youtube and what I was calling set screws Joey is calling adjusters and there is a nut on the threaded adjuster on the blower in the video and mine had no nuts just the threaded screw .I guess I'll find some nuts the same thread and try getting things adjusted again.Then I imagine tighten the nuts down to hold the set screws in to adjustment Thanks Mike

Thanks I'll check out his videos on YouTube. I don't do Facebook. Mike

Okay So I should use the plug with the two holes to adjust the position of the gears initially. Then do I use use the set screw for fine tuning? Thanks Mike

Hi everyone,I picked up a Champion blower awhile ago.I got it working OK ,but after using for awhile it goes out of adjustment.I then have to re adjust the set screws on the front shaft where the phosphor bronze gear sits.How tight should I tighten the set screws? If I tighten them too much its hard to turn.Thanks for any help. Mike

Hi Everyone.I picked up some Pexto stake anvils this weekend and I've been trying to find out the uses for each stake.I was told they came from a company that did work on church steeples. So I guess they would have been used for working copper for flashings and such.I haven't had much luck with google.I was hoping to find a old catalog or something.I got a few cones but they don't go in the plate so I guess they bolted on to the big table that the plate was originally on. I remember having a table like that in shop class in Middle School. Thanks Mike