Jump to content
I Forge Iron

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi All,


I just got a quote on a 268 Lbs. Euroanvil and I am looking for some feedback about them before I commit to getting one. I would buy a Nimba if I had that kind of cash, but sadly I don't. So if anybody has a Euroanvil or has used one, I would sure appreciate your opinions on their overall quality.
Thanks,
Chad

Posted

I've used the 500 lb and the 268 lber. Both feel very nice to me. I'll be buying one from Blacksmith Supply this summer(hopefully). I like the 335 lber.

Posted

Only ! In The Usa I Forge On Euroanvil When Teaching Or Demonstratin ,not Because Of My Choice Only Because They Are There !
But In All My Visits In The Stats I Used
Nimba
London Patern Many Types
Kolswa
Peddinghouse
Italien Make
Polish Make
And Many Others
At My Shope In Israel And In My School I Use Only Europen Style Anvils But They Are 40-100 Years Old Produced Long Before ''euroanvile'' Started.
From All Of This Types I Forge And Preffer Very Much The Hofi Anvil
Hofi

Posted

I see the manufacturer in Czech republic (see my earlier posts on this and related subjects) has now got a 70Kg (154 pound) unit for sale. He has them priced at 472 Euros each but there would be tax on top of that but it seems like a good buy to me. The finish seems better than on some of the earlier Euroanvils. Would anybody be interested in a photo?

Posted

I have a 335. I bought it new from Blacksmithsupply.

After two years of searching for something used and finding the local antique and Amish have anvil prices hovering around $6lb in this area. I tossed in the towel on that search.

I picked it up at the Ring of Fire event last fall.

The horn has to be cleaned up. I suggest using some paint stripper to get the paint off the horn before starting grinding. When you grind the horn make sure your looking straight down the horn otherwise you'll egg shape the horn. John said he's had a few guys do that. I sat on a bucket with the tip of the horn at my nose and ran the grinder w/80g flap wheel down the horn that takes a 1/4" bite each time. So like cutting the grass I made one swipe at a time and worked my way around.

The face is ready to use. It did have some form of rust sealer on it. I used a scotch brite flap wheel to remove it and put a nicer polish on.

So far its been good to me, even after I missed a full force strike w/ 3.5lb hammer the face was unscathed. My face however almost caught the other side of the hammer. Rebound checks good...

Minor Complaints:

When I work out on the rear horn it makes a really weird/annoying ring. I keep telling myself to keep an eye for a big speaker magnet and put it on the underside of the rear horn to see if that changes its "tune".

The Hardy hole was undersize. 45 min with a bastard file fixed the problem. I took my time with this as I knew if I took it too far I would be hosed. Plus there were a few mins of thinking with a barley pop during the whole operation. So maybe if one was efficient and less cautious it could be done in 20 min.

There was a casting divot at the 5 o'clock position on the horn about 2" back from the horn. There was an obvious attempt to hide it with bondo. I'm sure it was done at the foundry. Its about 3/16" deep and 3/4" long. Not worth making a fuss about and I'm sure easy to fix with the welder and right rod.

That shiny black paint job just bothers me.


Would I buy one again? YES.

Next time it'll come off the truck in the backyard. Then I'll get out the pressure pot and strip the whole anvil and clean it up and give it a better paint job. I may just do that if I get bored one weekend.

Posted
I have a 335. I bought it new from Blacksmithsupply.


Minor Complaints:

When I work out on the rear horn it makes a really weird/annoying ring. I keep telling myself to keep an eye for a big speaker magnet and put it on the underside of the rear horn to see if that changes its "tune".


Not to hijack the thread. But, I put a heavy bead of silicone caulk between my anvil & its wooden base. Worked a treat to deaden the ring.

Now back to the previous Euroanvil conversation. :)
Posted

From All Of This Types I Forge And Preffer Very Much The Hofi Anvil
Hofi


What does a Hofi Anvil look like? Do you have any pictures of your anvil on the site or would you please post one?
Posted

Trying to attach a couple of pics from the Czech foundry. Finish quality looks better on these.

I did wonder, with a small anvil like a 70Kg if the weight would have been better in the anvil rather than dispersed to a shelf and an upsetting block.

Posted

I bought the 335 lb. euroanvil in 2003, and I've been very happy. The face dented fairly easily at first but after 4 years of use it seems to have gotten a bit harder. It takes a lot to dent it and the size is just right. When I'd dented it in the past I would just use a flap disc on an angle grinder and lightly go over the whole face to keep it smooth-you can stretch metal faster when you have less resistance. For a solid stand that reduces the noise of an anvil better than anything else I've seen, I took the advice of Elmer Roush. I made a steel box with four sides and a bottom out of 1/4 inch steel. I made the box the size of the anvil's base. Then I welded two pieces of angle iron inside the base on opposite sides; I welded them about five inches below the height I wanted the base of the anvil to sit. Then, I cut a piece of steel to sit inside the stand. That piece of steel should fit inside the box without a whole lot of space on the sides. I did cut a slot big enough for my fingers in the center of the plate to allow me to hold it. The stand was filled with sand to about four inches above the height of the angle iron. Next, the steel plate was placed inside the box and tapped with a hammer to compress the sand. The plate was removed, a little more sand was added, and the plate was put back in. About an inch of sand was added on top of the plate, and then the anvil was placed on top of it. The anvil was adjusted to level. The final step was adding about an inch of sand around the base of the anvil. After working on it briefly all the sand compacts and all the high pitch ring disappears. The squeezing of the sand between the angle iron and plate prevents the anvil from sinking into the sand- keeping the anvil level, and the weight of the sand and anvil makes a stand so heavy that it doesn't move easily even when working on a smooth floor.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Been using the 175lb size for several years, found the double pritchel configuration handy for many items, as well as the upsetting foot.....

Finish does leave a little to be desired but overall, well worth the money....

(some day, I'll get a larger one as well....)

Posted

Ditto to Mooseridge on size and style.

Ditto to Alwin on the slightly soft face in the beginning.

Bear in mind I had been working on two different old anvils (a PW and a Mouse Hole) prior to getting the Euro. Developed some bad habits, I suppose. But in reallity, if you only hit hot iron on the face, it is plenty hard. It's those momentary lapses of reason that might make a few dimples early on.

As with any new anvil, you will want to radius the edges. I have kinda tried to creap up on mine; a little with the belt sander, a little with a file here and there. I still need to make the edges a little rounder in places. I'll eventually get to it, but it's better than hogging off a bunch and then deciding you went too far.

I like mine.

Don

  • 10 months later...
Posted

I have a 337lbs and love it. I have had it for 3years now it has the shelf and upsetting block on the side. I have found many uses for all the angles on the double horn. It was a little noisey at first but I have a wooden block under the anvil and used silicone between that also I used railroad spikes with holes drilled in the bottom end and threaded that and used bolts going through the wood to suck down the railroad spikes.
Anyway it worked really well for me and I love my euroanvil.

Posted

I think they're out of stock. I wrote the Blacksmith Supply to inquire about an anvil and they told me they are having to move the patterns to USA for casting. They must be having problems with the foundry overseas. I hope this doesn't mean a price increase but it probably does.

Posted

You could try Old World Anvils - Anvils. I think he has some left, although I believe they are of the BRANCO style and old EURO Anvil style rather then the newer EURO Anvil style. Old World Anvils are good to do business with as is Blacksmith Supply (Euro Anvils).

Posted

There is an UMBA meeting at Old World Anvils this weekend. I could look to see what he has in stock or give them a call. Mark Aspery is the demonstrator.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...