ChrisPTF Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 I found this 132lb Peter Wright on Craigslist 30 minutes from my house. I brought it home; wire wheeled it and put some oil on it and am very happy with it. It has great Rebound 85-90% Now my 145lb Trenton has a brother! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobasaurus Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 I have almost the same anvil (a mere 129 lbs, though). Looks like it's in great shape. How will you secure it down? I haven't secured mine yet, it needs it bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisPTF Posted January 23, 2017 Author Share Posted January 23, 2017 I have 3/8" thick heavy duty nails that I am going to drive into the wood base and then bend them over the feet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 Bedding it down on a layer of silicone caulk will secure it solidly and help quiet the ring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisPTF Posted January 23, 2017 Author Share Posted January 23, 2017 1 minute ago, JHCC said: Bedding it down on a layer of silicone caulk will secure it solidly and help quiet the ring. That is a good idea, thanks for the advice, I will have to do that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 Then use the nails to make nail hooks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 As I'm on the road a lot, I like to place the anvil on a couple of pieces of scrap 2x? and trace the base curve onto the wood and cut them out and nail the curved pieces to the stump so I can easily lift the anvil out for transportation. In my smithy at my house I use big anvils and a couple of fence staples to corral them as I found even the 500+ pound one would walk under heavy enough sledging. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisPTF Posted January 23, 2017 Author Share Posted January 23, 2017 Thanks for the advice on tracing the base curve I've always seen the finished result but never really knew how they achieved it. I also have some bigger fence Staples that I think I'll use instead of the nails Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 Nice score you have there Chris. I made steel tripod stands for my anvils and just wedge them into the stand with the hammer and tong racks. On a wood block I prefer securing them like Thomas describes, all you really need do is keep the anvil from walking, it' not like you're going to be hitting it hard enough to bounce it off. Here's a thought for you, how about forging your own anvil staples? You can custom fit them and if you forge the points square a little twist will prevent them from working loose. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHCC Posted January 23, 2017 Share Posted January 23, 2017 This is obviously a staple of conversation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisPTF Posted January 23, 2017 Author Share Posted January 23, 2017 That would be pretty cool to forge my own Anvil Staples, and like you said all I need to do is prevent it from walking. This website is a wealth of information thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Ling Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 13 hours ago, JHCC said: Then use the nails to make nail hooks! You beat me to it! Littleblacksmith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 You may NOT want to secure the 2nd anvil to a wooden stand, leave it loose. You bought the WHOLE ANVIL not just the face. Not securing the 2nd anvil to the stand means you can turn the anvil every which way but loose. That allows you to use the curved under the horn and heel, the curves between the feet, the curves between the feet and waist, as a swage block to bend metal. You can turn the anvil on end with the horn up into the air, or the heel up into the air, and even use the porter holes if you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 You know those nice caplet indentations on Trenton bases...I've dished a number of items using them... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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