Here are a couple of pictures of my progress. Thanks Wayne Coe for the advice on this build.

Nice. If possible can you post pics of the lining? And the ends? What is your cubic inches?

Nice looking forge so far.  Pretty long though.  Hope you have a power hammer, friendly striker, or are built-like-bull

I don't have a clue about the cubic inches for sure. If I am cipherin' right, it is around 200.

The bottom, or base in the picture is 9" wide by 18" long.  Yes, I am built like a bull. LOL!!  I am a knife maker, and want to be able to work with longer stock. It also has a pass through design. I am assuming I can maybe plop a fire brick in from the back, to take up some cubes, and shut off the back burner if not needed. We'll have to see how that will work. 

The lining will be 2" inswool around the top, 4" in the base/bottom. (Even though Wayne suggested 1" top and 2" bottom. I tend to over do everything.)

The inswool will have a 1/2" coating of Kast-o-lite, and a final coating of metrikote reflective.

Tom, you can find a cylinder volume calculator by doing a Google search.

V = πr²h

where r = radius and h = height. You can approximate pi with 22/7. 

597.5357 cubic inches. LOL! It was 2 in the morning, what can I say?

This is the top part with the inswool in place, and the first coat of Kast-O-Lite.

 

Nice!  I recently made one similar following information Wayne. Mine is a single burner and I used one of Frosty's 3/4" "T's" and so far it's working great!  Lots of great minds here and years of experience to learn from.  Can't wait to see it fired up!

1 minute ago, Oberu said:

Nice!  I recently made one similar following information Wayne. Mine is a single burner and I used one of Frosty's 3/4" "T's" and so far it's working great!  Lots of great minds here and years of experience to learn from.  Can't wait to see it fired up!

Thanks! I made this one long with the two burners so I can harden longer blades. I am using the 3/4" T burners also, I hope it all works like I want it to.

Tom, where did you orient your burners? They look almost straight up at the top. I am going back and forth over burner angle on mine. At the open forge I went to today all the gas forges had the burners straight up at 12:00, yet many say to aim them at the side for a swirling effect. Seems like everyone has a different opinion, guess I'll probably end up learning from my own experience.

They are at about the 1:00 position and angled to the other side, kinda toward the 7:00 position. Hope that makes sense.

Tom: At 600 cu/in or close enough to not matter, two 3/4" burners is just about right so long as you can tune them.

What's going to give you problems is how you've oriented them, at 1:00 oclock aimed into the far corner you are going to have back pressure issues and they're likely sputter. Same angle aimed at the near 1/4 of the floor will cause a strong vortex and minimize back pressure.

The other "jumps right out at me" issue is how far you have the burners extended into the forge. The end of the burner shouldn't be any farther into the outer liner than possible. Mine extend less than 1/2" past the shell, leaving them better than 2" from the forge chamber.

The Ribbon burners extend to the flame face not through it and the ribbons are too deep, after a couple hours they begin backfiring. I'm going to have to see if I can prevent the backfires by cranking on more PSI. to help cool the port blocks.

Anyway, pull your burners almost completely OUT of the forge and you won't burn them up so quickly. I'm not sure how you'd change their angle, the mounting sleeve is so long it doesn't leave much wobble to adjust.

Other than details it looks like a nice build. Please feel free to give me a shout if you have questions.

Frosty The Lucky.

By the time I finish the second coat of Kast-o-lite, the burner mounting tubes will be sticking through the lining, into the chamber about 1/2". Is that too much? Should I cut the ends of the tubes off even with the liner on the chamber side? 

If I am understanding, over-heating the ends of the burner and mounting tubes is one of the problems?

The mounting tubes are about 1/2" larger in diameter than the burner tubes, I will be able to adjust the angle slightly, but not much. I will have to try it and see how it does.

Thanks for the info Frosty, let me know if I should cut the tubes off even. It may be easier to grind the welds on the outer shell and pull them back out some. 

Tom,  neither the burner tubes nor the mounting tubes should be in the chamber at all.  For the sake of discussion if you have 2 inches of kaowool and 1/2 inch of kastolite that's a total of 2.5 inches past the shell.  The end of the mounting tubes or burner tubes should end only about 1/2 inch inside the shell, but still about 2 inches back from the chamber. This is approximate and a little bit one way or the other isn't a huge deal.  A burner or mounting tube down in the forge chamber will reach the same temperature as anything else in the forge.  The result will be that your flame could start burning inside the tube rather than at the end of it (which can give less than ideal results), and the tubes will also deteriorate more quickly due to repeated extreme heating then cooling cycles.

I will cut the welds on the mounting tubes so i can pull them out some and remount correctly. I assume the inswool that will be exposed after pulling those mounting tubes out some, will have to be covered with Kast-o-lite.

The mounting sleeves have no use inside the forge at all, tack them to the outside, all they do is hold the burner. Then pull the ends of the burners back till they just penetrate the outer shell. Yes it's a good idea to put some hard refractory on the ceramic blanket in the burner ports.

The ONLY steel you want inside the forge is steel you intend to hammer into something else.

Frosty The Lucky.

2 hours ago, Frosty said:

The mounting sleeves have no use inside the forge at all, tack them to the outside, all they do is hold the burner. Then pull the ends of the burners back till they just penetrate the outer shell. Yes it's a good idea to put some hard refractory on the ceramic blanket in the burner ports.

The ONLY steel you want inside the forge is steel you intend to hammer into something else.

Frosty The Lucky.

Thank you sir, I will fix it.

 

That looks like it's going to be a sweet forge when you're done. Keep the pics coming along on the build progress.

As unpleasant as it was, I cut out the original, 6", burner mounting tubes. i replaced them with 3" tubes that just barely stick through the outer, metal shell. I then applied the last coat of Kast-O-Lite, and sealed around the holes where I shortened the pipes.  I am also attaching a picture of my current forge that I have been using for a year now to harden steel.

Here it is nearly finished. The white coating is Metrokote.

Thanks. Nice to see such a pic-heavy post, so we can all see what's being discussed.

That video did not load. Still learning how things work. I'll post it to FB and post a link here. 

 

Edited December 11, 20169 yr by Tom Chitwood
Video did not load.

Let's see if this works.

 

https://www.facebook.com/tom.chitwood.395/posts/1859093707643697?comment_id=1859095114310223&notif_t=feed_comment&notif_id=1481426432167995