the iron dwarf Posted May 29, 2016 Share Posted May 29, 2016 many newbies want to mill or grind the top of their anvil because they think they must have sharp edges ( and they often end up wrecking a perfectly good anvil in the process ). so here is something just for those people a block made from fork lift tine about 1 3/4" thick, 3 7/8" wide and 4 5/8" long ( 45 by 100 by 117mm ) that can be ground if required without damaging the anvil, it has a 3/4" ( 20mm ) peg to go in a hardy hole and sleeves could be made for other sizes if required. even divots for riveting could be added Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SReynolds Posted June 10, 2016 Share Posted June 10, 2016 I have a few of them as well as another (11 pound) anvil I clamped a hardie shank to. Yep. Lots o times I need a sharp corner. Sharp is subjective. Or is that objective? Anyway,,,,,,,,,,,,,most older anvils are well rounded and chipped, broken etc. and you gotta have something that ain't at times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the iron dwarf Posted June 10, 2016 Author Share Posted June 10, 2016 since those pictures the top and ends have been polished a bit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigb Posted July 20, 2016 Share Posted July 20, 2016 Just curious after you weld the hardy peg on does it need to be re-tempered? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted July 20, 2016 Share Posted July 20, 2016 4 minutes ago, bigb said: Just curious after you weld the hardy peg on does it need to be re-tempered? Depends on the steel you're making the bottom tool from but generally welding the shank on does alter the heat treat of the steel in the vicinity, this is called the HAZ, Heat Affect Zone. Generally HAZ draws hardness down farther if it was hardened to begin with. You may want heat treat again. Depends on the results and what you're looking for. Pre heat generally is to spread the HAZ and reduce thermal shock from the rapid melting heat and chill. Some steels harden drastically when arc welded, there are techniques to deal with these but you have to know what you have. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigb Posted July 20, 2016 Share Posted July 20, 2016 OK thanks. Since some of my first projects will be tools I really need to learn the art of heat treating. Been reading up, on here and in some very, very old books. I have a steel quench bucket with a self closing lid and a few gallons of clean used automatic transmission fluid but I am not sure if the transmission fluid is a good idea or if I should just use motor oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted July 20, 2016 Share Posted July 20, 2016 Save the ATF for something else, it's great for freeing up rusty things if your tranny doesn't leak. ATF smoke isn't good to breath, used motor oil is worse. I get my quench oil at the local super market lunch counter. They change oil in their fryers a couple times a week so I take a clean, labeled 5gl. water jug and asked nicely if they'd let me have some of their used oil. A little explanation about why I want it and no problem, check back every day. I WAS hoping for oil out of the doughnut fryer but my shop smells like chicken, fish patties, egg rolls, etc. instead. Oh well the price is good. It's not terribly old peanut oil. I don't ask often there is a fellow who recycles for bio diesel and pays them to empty their tanks. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gote Posted July 20, 2016 Share Posted July 20, 2016 A small part of my anvil edge is sharp and it is occasionally quite useful. In some situations it doubles as hot cut and sometimes it can be used to make a sharp offset (If that is the correct word). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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