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I Forge Iron

Fly presses -- show us your tooling


FlyingXS

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Hopefully I will be able to transport my presses home this weekend from where that are being stored for me.

I'd like to see what tooling sets you have made for yours photos essential, and the work made.

My plans are to make a slitting chisels and drifts for doing mortices on the round, square & diamond, also a set for hammer eyes, a flatter.

Possibly a mould for fireplace shovel pans.

 

I'm sure there are many other tools, operations, and ideas I haven't even considered so please share.

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  • 2 weeks later...

There were a LOT of press tooling photos from a bunch of us before software upgrades/bugs.  If I have the time this weekend perhaps I'll repost a few of mine.  A little hard to gather the ambition to do it again without assurances that either the old pics are gone for good or new pics won't suffer the same fate.  Sorry.

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Greetings Judson,

As most who have followed I have posted many tools and fly press photos. Unfortunately due to a computer glitch most are lost. As I have learned there is no one stop shopping for reference to fly press tools.. It took years to develop my inventory of tools. I will try to list some as soon as I can take new photos . 

Forge on and make beautiful things 

Jim

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Thanks guys, look forward to seeing what you have come up with.

I have my two presses at home now, and need to make a stand for each of them and start trying them out.  Just have to get my new second hand mig going and get these wrought iron gates out of the shop so I get start playing,

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Zeeko,  Cutting openings in a die, or working internally, is always harder than cutting the outside of the die, right?  I'm thinking of the heart die on your Facebook page. Drillng and chiseling away the negative space is limiting.  There are a couple other methods to go about that that could save you a lot of time and let you get more detail.  One way is to carve (or forge) a hob and use that to form the cavity.  Heat the die stock, and sink the hob into it; then, in the case of the heart, cut away everything but the thin outline you want.  The hob doesn't have to be anything special in the way of material, because you're only going to use it once (or twice if you mess up) so it can be soft and easy to work.  Another method is make the die in halves, so you're always working on the outside, where you can do most of the work with a grinder; then you can weld, bolt or collar the two halves together.  Either method keeps the inside work to a minimum.  

The split die method works with sheering dies too.  Let's say you're making a die to knock out hearts.  It's pretty tough to get down into the point of the heart, right?   The punch is easy, but the die is difficult, because it's hard to make a small, pointed cavity with the proper relief.  Well, split the die in half so you no longer have to work inside.  I have an example of that on a leaf die, but I can't seem to find a picture of it at the moment.  Maybe I'll snap a picture of it tomorrow when I'm in the shop.

I am including a picture of another die though.  This is a die I made using a hob to get the negative space and then cutting away the outer area to leave a raised portion--the same idea as your heart.  In the picture, the sunken area in the center was forged into the die with a hob, so first I had to make that.   I started by sinking a teardrop into it and then carved the rest.  (It was essentially a negative teardrop in a positive teardrop with concave sides.)  The initial small teardrop stamp (a positive) made a negative impression in the hob, which turned it into a positive impression on the die, which turned the teardrop back into a negative impression in the work.  (!!)  After using the hob on the die, I ground most of the rest of the shape of the die and finished it with files and sand paper.  I used this die in my toggle press.  It is cut from 1 7/16" diameter annealed 4140 (and left annealed).  The die image is probably about 7/8" tall.  It was a custom die for a client, and I've promised never to use it again. 

Joel Sanderson

MillerDie.thumb.JPG.c742b6a963011f03f225

 

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On February 23, 2016 at 9:47 PM, zeeko said:

Here are links to some photos of texturing dies I have been making out of 1045 1" bar. Quenching in brine and drawing to bronze. 

https://zeekosalvage.wordpress.com 

https://www.facebook.com/zeeko.salvage

Zeeko, on a side note I love the salmon you made further down the first link. 

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11 minutes ago, Sanderson Iron said:

I could be wrong, but I think you copied and pasted the wrong links, Daswulf.  Those go to Zeeko's.

Go to the first link Zeeko posted and scroll down. He made an awesome salmon sculpture. Very sorry it didn't have anything to do with the dies. It's the right links. Not trying to sidetrack the post. Just wanted to say I liked it. 

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  • 1 month later...

A hob is a die to make a die in this context.  Handy for high usage dies as you make the hob and then you can make several dies with it that get the wear and tear and when ypou go back to make another the hob has only a few impressions on it.   (also good for preforms that you will hand cut from there)

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  • 4 weeks later...

Y'all sure know how to make an old man feel older and a lot dumber.  John Crouchet and Jerry Atchenberg  are friends of mine.  I didn't know how good of friends they are until I started looking for local experts on fly presses.  I expect we'll be like family by the time this is over.

An older bud that is a cabinet maker cornered  me about a year ago and we decided to pool our interests and see if we can make some unique stuff for those with money wanting the unique.  The one pull is made with silicon bronze.  Silicon Bronze is to blacksmithing what aluminum is to TIG welding.  There's a sweetness there that has to be tasted to be appreciated.  The other is made with rebar.

I'm making my punches out of succor rod couplings.  The threaded end with a little massaging by a grinder fits into the press.  The collar is perfect.  Then the business end is one inch square stock and can be annealed then hardened, SuperQuench.

 

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image.jpeg

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