Curtis87 Posted November 22, 2015 Share Posted November 22, 2015 Does anyone have any tips for welding the back end of the axe head without melting the tip? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FoxFire Posted November 22, 2015 Share Posted November 22, 2015 Are you setting the weld in front of the eye before you weld the bit steel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curtis87 Posted November 22, 2015 Author Share Posted November 22, 2015 i started with the blade end first, maybe I didn't set the weld near the eye properly. To be honest I was just so frustrated with trying to hold onto the piece. I only have 2 sets of tongs currently and they're definitely not made for this. Anyway I tried for about an hour trying to weld that back piece. Guess I'll just have to try again, I got lots more leaf spring left to work with Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Judson Yaggy Posted November 22, 2015 Share Posted November 22, 2015 Coal or gas? Steel type(s)? Heavy drifting of the eye after the weld? Flux? If you are in coal, stuff the cutting edge thru the hot part of the fire and butt it into the side of the fire pot , the pot and cooler ashes just next to it will act as a heat sink and keep the cutting edge from burning. Flip frequently. Heat for longer than welding the edge because of extra mass and heat loss to either side of the weld. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teenylittlemetalguy Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 Don't forget the whole eye needs to be at welding heat as well as the blade where you are trying to make the weld. It needs to be hot so it doesn't act like a spring and pull your blade apart when you make the weld. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 leafspring tends not to like welding to itself; if that entire piece is leaf spring put a piece of sheetmetal in between. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curtis87 Posted November 23, 2015 Author Share Posted November 23, 2015 2 hours ago, Judson Yaggy said: Coal or gas? Steel type(s)? Heavy drifting of the eye after the weld? Flux? If you are in coal, stuff the cutting edge thru the hot part of the fire and butt it into the side of the fire pot , the pot and cooler ashes just next to it will act as a heat sink and keep the cutting edge from burning. Flip frequently. Heat for longer than welding the edge because of extra mass and heat loss to either side of the weld. Coal forge, using grocery store borax as flux, and I didn't drift the hole, just wrapped it around a 1" round bar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Cochran Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 I tried makin a couple hawks usin the same method this weekend. I started on the eye side and worked down towards the bit. I got it just shy of sparkling and took my light crosspien (chipping hammer) and started with gentle taps and after it was decently stuck I'd hit it a little harder then a little harder. i pinched my eye between the edge of the anvil and the square head.Everything looked good till I started cleaning it up then I noticed I didn't get a full weld by the eye. My guess is I got a little scale in there before I fluxed it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rashelle Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 You can use a glut. If it's all leaf spring do like Thomas said and stick some mild in between. If it's mild with a high carbon bit use a mono steel hacksaw blade or similar as a glut in the area that don't weld well. Do like Judson said also on the placement in the coal fire. Keep the part your not welding out of the hotter part of the fire, using the sides and edges as a heat shield. Watch your heat and don't let it spring open. I normally do my blade first (backwards I know). After wrapping. Then place the blade at the far side of the fire past the sweet spot and weld back. You may want to do it in reverse. Weld the eye area first then work up towards the blade area, inserting the bit when appropriate. Try using a lighter hammer when doing the initial weld also helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted November 23, 2015 Share Posted November 23, 2015 Leave the fold full thickness before you weld, refine and shape or test the weld. Always leave the thin work to the last. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curtis87 Posted November 23, 2015 Author Share Posted November 23, 2015 Thanks a lot guys, the next attempt should go better I think Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metalanton Posted November 24, 2015 Share Posted November 24, 2015 I highly recommend jim Austin's asymmetric axe DVD. I have watched it many times and learn something new every time, he has some tricks for getting a good eye weld. one in particular is upsetting the section in front of the eye before welding so that you have more material to work with. also looking at your axe I would suggest making sure your joint has no gaps before welding, especially if you are using spring steel, because it will want to spring open after each hammer blow making it nearly impossible to get a good weld. also you should make a dedicated drift for your axe and do not hammer it into the eye very aggressively, instead use it like a mandrel and hammer on the cheeks and poll to form and enlarge the eye, this will prevent opening your weld during that stage. good luck axe making is fascinating! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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