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I Forge Iron

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There is a bit more involved making a "real" branding iron vs a "Brand anything else than a critter" branding iron---use of tapered stock, brand not resulting in necroses due to the burn, do they have the right to that brand, etc..   As I recall the last time I investigated the cost for a real iron was US$75 per character.

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OK generally I have seen folks take something like the edges of good sized channel iron to get a thick back to hold heat and a thinner edge to get clearer imprint. (as smiths we can forge it like that compared to the fab guys who work mainly with cut/bend/paste)

Yours looks a bit "light" for steer work; but would do for a lady wishing to mark her ownership of a possibly wandering spouse.

Edited by ThomasPowers
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Brand on the wood looks a lot smoother than I thought the actual item was. I was afraid the kink in the C would wreck the look. Brand itself doesn't look at all bad to me. Note that the closest I come to live stock is helping a friends kids move their 4-H pigs and getting the odd call to come out and bury a horse on short notice.

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I think it looks a lot better. I don't know about Texas My brand in California is only for the left rear hip. Others are located mid section or front left or right and often in conjunction with a ear slit.

Draw file the end and you will get a good idea how flat it is. Smearing a brand is very easy to do with an iron like that the hair melts and the iron slips down smearing the brand. I would consider a twisted wire second hand hold or a sliding wood handle on the iron. Just my personal preference.

The tapered material will hold the heat.

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True that , TP. After you file it level, round the edges over, this makes it set down better and lesslikely to slip or peal the hide. In use its black hot, and aplied till the hair and hide are singed to look kind of like copper

The idea is just to kill the hair follicles. Dont know if you need notches where the junctions are, I know for certain you do on circles. Some time their is just to much heat and it blisters the critters. 

Also, the extra mas keeps them cold when diped in denatured and dry ice. That just killes the pigment.  

Manolito, most brand books list each quarter seperatly. Helps when more than one branch of a famaly uses the same brand, or one outfit owns more than one ranch. 

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from what i was tought on making branding irons you need an eight to a quarter inch open spaces where any line intersects.  looks good on wood but with out the space the flesh will scare up in a big blob rather than more crisp letters.  you can kind of see it start in the wood.   the space allows for the burn to finishe the brand line cleaner.   

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