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I Forge Iron

Nail header failures, but I'm not quitting.


Daswulf

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So I tried to make one the other night and it can be reworked for larger nails but I failed it at what I was trying because I drilled the hole first and made it too big. So when I drifted it with the nail size I couldn't get it to grip right. I'll fix it and try again with larger stock. 

Second was tonight. I decided to sort of document the progression seeing as how I wanted to try it from a rr spike so I made one at each stage of the process to show how and the practice didn't hurt. :)  so I did end up with a crack in the first one I " spooned" out. So I made another.  I actually used the handle of a post hammer locked in the post vice to dimple this guy for the pipe size. 

This one I drifted crooked, and I was having issues with as well with My sizing of the stock. 

These were issues on my end. And I will fix them and continue to improve. 

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Suggest you start with flat bar and save all that beating on the metal to make it flat.

Try 1/4 inch plate to get the feel of the dimple and the hole. Make the nail header to use 1/4 inch stock which means the hole will be 3/16 or less in size.

Do not get discouraged as one good header can make hundreds of nails (grin)

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True Glenn. I guess the main thing is making the dome and getting the hour glass hole shape and size correct. I'll dig around my scrap and get a piece of plate.  I'm not discouraged, I'm itching to get it right so as soon as I get the chance I'll be back at it. 

Forbidden of course.

sorry Frosty. I always like to hear what you have to say. 

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This is a good aplication for leaf spring, it will hold up a lot better. I find that cut nailes give a good start for the punch you need, hard to get your head around how small a punch you need when you start forging a 1/2" rod

Your header will be perfictly servicible if you only punch fron the top and clean it up with emery cloth. If you want the clasic hour glass drift your round hole square from the back against a stop, drift back fron the top with a round back. This keeps you from going in to far. Good heat will srink the hole some as it cools.

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Forbidden of course.

 

Maybe I can quote myself? Nope, new thread maybe?

Using a RR spike for these applications is  more work than it's worth and though it's good exercise you're teaching yourself something else. I start with 3/8" or 1/2" sq. but 1/4"x3/4" strip stock works nicely.

Use several inches of stock and practice punching at a regular distance from the end in. Start with the smallest hole and make them progressively larger. While doming makes for nicer and quicker nails it's not actually necessary to heading a nail so you can just practice punching to start with.

I dome with a ball pein over the prichel hole or the bolster plate. Punch and drift from the bottom and dress the top chamfer as the last step.

It's all good practice and has a lot of methods of production you'll find the one that works best for you but add them all to your mental tool kit.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Daswulf, Now may be the time to try modeling clay to make the header you want. You can make a dome header, or less and less dome and clear down to a flat header, try different tapers for the nails to make the hole in the dome work, or all manner of other combinations. If it does not work out, then roll it into a ball, and make another clay header to play with until it is right.

Edited by Glenn
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I can not get to the forge because (insert reason here).

Grab the modeling clay and a notebook. Sketch or draw anything that comes to mind. Try to make it in modeling clay. Refine the drawing and add notes. When you do get to the forge, you will already know what to do and have made most of the mistakes in clay.

That way you can use the valuable forge time actually forging.

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ok so not trying, cause i was working on other stuff, i worked on my premade nail header to make large nails out of rebar. they didnt wiork out perfect but as i said this was in between stuff. I plan on making a real nail header and better nails, this was just for an idea and to make my other header useful. i'm not gettin g it right yet but im betting it's MY technique. we will see when i make a normal nail header and nails. i actually tapped these into my rr anvil into my stump a lil bit and they didnt want to come out till i heated em. :) they would work for that. could be better and i'll keep going till i make em right in any size.

 

dont worry I didn't forget all the info you guys mentioned. I'll work on it :) 

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Edited by Daswulf
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Haha. Never heard of that but sounds like it could do that. I drove em around an inch if that into a dry lucust stump then couldn't get em out. Had to heat em up to get em to finally pop out. Those suckers would hold well. 

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Those aren't nails, they're spikes. A square nail has about 22% more surface area for skin friction but being tapered as soon as they start to move they loosen right up.

On the other hand if, once you have them headed, you put a twist in them they ain't going anywhere.

Nice spikes, well done.

Frosty The Lucky

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