Forging Carver Posted July 23, 2015 Share Posted July 23, 2015 Hi,What are your opinions on this anvil? Is it too beat up or small? It is a Fisher about 19 inches from end of face to tip of the horn. Thanks so much Your multiple question post has been split into multiple posts and placed on the correct forums. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Latticino Posted July 23, 2015 Share Posted July 23, 2015 (edited) A lot of these questions have been asked and answered before. You should try cruising thru the site and reading some more so you have a better basis for asking your questions.Weight is a more typical method for evaluating anvil size. Does the anvil you are looking at have a number on it (typical for Fishers, this will indicate the weight range)? Put yours on a scale and ask again. Generally speaking though it looks in good condition (but rebound test would certainly be helpful) and should be adequate for knives, small tools and nails (some forge knives on much smaller anvils, even upturned 12 lb sledge heads). Edited July 23, 2015 by latticino Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted July 23, 2015 Share Posted July 23, 2015 Fishers are good anvils. Check for any damage, modifications, and rebound using a ball bearing. Read about Fisher anvils in the Anvil section under brands, or search the site for Fisher Anvils.What type work are you going to do. Small work suggests a small anvil, where as large work requires a large anvil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 23, 2015 Share Posted July 23, 2015 My main shop anvil is a 515# fisher. As a good quality "quiet" anvil they are especially good for smithing where noise is a concern. That looks to be on the small side so no heavy work. Not knowing what you plan to do makes it rather a Yes, No, Maybe situation. As a carver what would your feelings be if you told someone that a 1/4" mortising chisel looked good only to find they wanted a chisel for cleaning up joints in major sized oak for timber framing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forging Carver Posted July 23, 2015 Author Share Posted July 23, 2015 My main shop anvil is a 515# fisher. As a good quality "quiet" anvil they are especially good for smithing where noise is a concern. That looks to be on the small side so no heavy work. Not knowing what you plan to do makes it rather a Yes, No, Maybe situation. As a carver what would your feelings be if you told someone that a 1/4" mortising chisel looked good only to find they wanted a chisel for cleaning up joints in major sized oak for timber framing?It is 99 pounds exact. What do you mean by heavy forging? I will probobly make knives, carving tools, hardware supplies (nails, hinges, etc), tools, and forging equipment (tongs, hardy tools, and hammers no more than 3 pounds. Is this too small for an anvil? Thanks Here are some more detailed photos: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 More important what size hammers will you want to use on it? I have a special anvil for student sledge use---the heel's already been broken off of it. Most the stuff you mentioned can be done with reasonable sized hammers for that anvil; but the 3 pound hammer I would be wanting to use a sledge on that I would not advise for that anvil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Latticino Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 Do you really classify a 3 lb. hammer as a sledge, or was that a typo? I use a 4.5 lb. rounding hand hammer on my 128 lb. Peter Wright regularly without any apparent bad effect (admittedly it may not be as efficient as it would be on a heavier anvil and I'm always careful to work over the center mass when using a full swing). I've also used a 16 lb. sledge with a striker, carefully, on the same anvil and so far avoided any incident (never over the horn or heel though). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob's hammer Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 (edited) way I read it, he saying he would use a sledge to make a 3pound hammer which would be to much for that anvil Edited July 24, 2015 by jacob's hammer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nobody Special Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 Fishers are nice...and quiet! I like something a little bigger for making hammers (the few times I've messed with it), for everything else you mention, I would say it's light, but in the just fine zone. Mildly beat up, but I've forged on much worse. Yah, avoid the big hammers on that one.I'm guessing from the change in pics that you bought it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forging Carver Posted July 24, 2015 Author Share Posted July 24, 2015 (edited) More important what size hammers will you want to use on it? I have a special anvil for student sledge use---the heel's already been broken off of it. Most the stuff you mentioned can be done with reasonable sized hammers for that anvil; but the 3 pound hammer I would be wanting to use a sledge on that I would not advise for that anvil.Alright thanks. I am going to use mainly a 2 - 2.5 pound hammer, maybe 3 pound. If I get some extra help then maybe a 4 pounder. Are these too heavy? ThanksFishers are nice...and quiet! I like something a little bigger for making hammers (the few times I've messed with it), for everything else you mention, I would say it's light, but in the just fine zone. Mildly beat up, but I've forged on much worse. Yah, avoid the big hammers on that one.I'm guessing from the change in pics that you bought it?Yeah I bought for $200. On the horn there are marks over it that looks to be from a grinder (there's a picture). Will this affect the work? Also, do you think the edges are too chipped for tong making? Thanks so much for the help Edited July 24, 2015 by Forging Carver Added picture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 Make a tool for the hardy if you need a particular edge for something and your anvil doesn't supply it. Note that viking smiths used tongs that could be made using that anvil. Forged swords with them even... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 Make a tool for the hardy if you need a particular edge for something and your anvil doesn't supply it. Note that viking smiths used tongs that could be made using that anvil. Forged swords with them even... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neg Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 It looks usable, but pretty soon you'll be wishing you had a bigger anvil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Everything Mac Posted July 25, 2015 Share Posted July 25, 2015 It's my belief that anything around the 100lb mark is perfectly adequate for 99% of the forging that most folks do. I forget who said it but one book / smith suggested everyone could get by on a 150lb anvil. - you don't need a monster anvil at all. I have a similar Fisher (rarer than rocking horse poop in the UK) that is also 100lb and it is a fine anvil. I wouldn't take a sledge hammer to it but it will be fine with a general hand hammer. (I had to ask the same question not that long ago tbh) Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forging Carver Posted July 25, 2015 Author Share Posted July 25, 2015 It's my belief that anything around the 100lb mark is perfectly adequate for 99% of the forging that most folks do. I forget who said it but one book / smith suggested everyone could get by on a 150lb anvil. - you don't need a monster anvil at all. I have a similar Fisher (rarer than rocking horse poop in the UK) that is also 100lb and it is a fine anvil. I wouldn't take a sledge hammer to it but it will be fine with a general hand hammer. (I had to ask the same question not that long ago tbh) AndyAlright thanks. How wide is yours? Mine is about 3 inches and I'm not sure if it's wide enough. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Everything Mac Posted July 25, 2015 Share Posted July 25, 2015 I can't remember off hand, and I'm away from home just now. I think 3" is about right for my one too. Remember you only need a surface area larger than the face of your hammer. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WL smith Posted July 25, 2015 Share Posted July 25, 2015 Use it in good health until something better comes along. Remember we all find that after your first anvil comes along they start raining from heaven! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted July 25, 2015 Share Posted July 25, 2015 Do not grind the top, and the only dressing should be on the edges to prevent further chipping..My main anvil is a 260# Fisher. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted July 25, 2015 Share Posted July 25, 2015 My main anvil is a 125lb. Soderfors and we were using a 17lb. sledge on it all last Saturday. NO full swings mind you but hard controlled blows rained on her face and through the hardy hole all day. There was only a little sideways movement drifting through the hardy hole as it's out on the tale a bit so the impact can rock the anvil back and make it walk how fast depended on who was striking. A one handed push every 5-10 minutes was all it took if it walked too far.Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forging Carver Posted July 25, 2015 Author Share Posted July 25, 2015 I can't remember off hand, and I'm away from home just now. I think 3" is about right for my one too. Remember you only need a surface area larger than the face of your hammer. AndyThat's a good point. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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