I was commissioned to make these.

The legs are 14 inches long.  The main straps are 1 1/2 x 1/4, the support curves are 1 x 1/4.

The rivets are plug welded on the back and then hot textured to set.

I fulled the bend point and forged the edges down.  I drilled the holes, no style points for hot punching.

Hot waxed and burnished. 

Very nice work.  I like the clean, simple lines.  Fullering the bend point is a brilliant idea and really makes the whole thing look upscale.  How did you figure the length you needed for the curve?  Did you mark the holes for the rivets after forming and drilling the curved portion?

Excellent stuff.

Very nice!    For a bit more expensive version you could start the curved pieces as round stock and hammer them down to strap making a visually more interesting surface.

Thank you.  No budget from the client for a more expensive version!  I gave them numerous options and they chose...less expensive.

I drew out the curve on the shop table with soapstone and measured the drawing.  I cut the pieces for the curve and then forged them to match.  I drilled the holes in the end of each curved piece first and then marked the legs to match.

I think they will be happy, when they get home from vacation.

Oh yah they should be very happy---and customers hardly ever go with the higher priced version---unless they are the type of people who brag about how much they spend on stuff instead of how little.

The trick is to cultivate the clientele who buy bragging rights.

Frosty The Lucky.

The clients who ordered the first set of brackets came back for more.

These are 9 inches on the leg.  Made from 1 1/2 x 1/4 and 1 x 1/4.

I again fullered the bend point and blind plug welded the rivet, then hot set it.

I used Gilders Paste Wax as the finish applied while above black heat...above black heat cause it burnt my finger pretty good!

Miss Sims wrote and I paraphrase, The first time you get burnt it hurts, the second time you get burnt it still hurts, they third time you get burnt, yes there will be a third time, it still hurts!"

hello, please post up the back side of the rivet,

"and blind plug welded the rivet, then hot set it."  pretty well describes it to a T without a picture.

Dems nice ones.  What does the mounting hardware look like?  And really nice pics,  I bet you'd get some bites on etsy and the like with that photography.

Very nice.  I think the clean simple lines only add to the overall impact.  I just picked up a slew of 1x1/4 to make a bunch of brackets for the remodel of my bedroom (wall of books!) and can see this design fitting in just perfectly.

I have plug welded rivets for various reasons in the past....why did you in this particular case, if you don't mind me asking?

Alan

So the bracket would fit flush against the wall?

41 minutes ago, tonyw said:

So the bracket would fit flush against the wall?

??

Was that in answer to my query? If so thank you, but that was not the issue of my query, my query was evidently awry.

Why would a countersunk rivet or riveting into a countersink not achieve a flush back surface?

I was asking to find out why it was welded rather than riveted, especially as it was then hot set, which could possibly have been done quicker without the welding stage...

...for instance maybe quicker to weld than make or buy counter sunk rivets...

Alan

Yes, without thinking much I tried a possible answer to your question. I wouldn't know about welding vs. countersinking the rivet

You guys have pretty much been answering your own questions - I have been out in the wilds of North Dakota in the winter...I don't recommend it.

I countersunk the back of the bar stock for the rivet and welded it in for extra stability.  I know it would have been tight and strong just simply hot set, but I wanted zero wiggle.

 

look nice. they rigid or do they flex?

Rigid - no flex, unless HIGHLY overloaded.