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I Forge Iron

O2/L6 Damascus razor


SnailForge

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This is one I finished recently. The steel is O2/L6 Damascus made by Howard Clark. I know it is not a common combination, but I prefer O2 to any other steel for razors, so I wanted the dark steel in my damascus to be O2.

The razor is just over 8/8, and half hollow ground. The little strip near the edge was protected during etching to prevent the edge from being eaten away and becoming useless. The scales are copper swirl acrylic. I always try to avoid acrylic because I really don't like the solvent stench it creates when sanded. Still, the customer is king if he pays like one, It shaves like a charm.

 

20150522_seabass_back.jpg

20150522_seabass_front.jpg

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In the world of straight razors, the defining metric of a razor is the width, measured from the spine to the edge, like you woul dmeasure with calipers. The size is always measured and expressed  in 1/8 of an inch, or occasionally in 1/16th if the number is odd. So this razor would be just over an inch in width (8/8) if it were bigger, I might express it as 17/16, but I'd never say 16/16.

The number is also the minimum value. A razor is seldom 8/8 on the mark. If it is slightly bigger, everyone would say 8/8, but if it is even a hair less than 8/8, calling it 8/8 will be frowned upon. Although this is mostly so in the world of vintage razors, where certain sizes are rarer than others, and if you pay for a certain size, you want that size and not 'almost' that size. It's a bit like horsepower on a car. 295 HP is not 300 HP, even though it matters nothing in practical terms.

The length may be mentioned, but is hardly important.The length of the edge is usually between 2 and 3 inches. Shorter or longer is inconvenient to use. Mine are usually between 2.5 and 2.75 unless there is a customer requirement.

The thickness of the spine is very important as well. The thickness of the spine determines the honing angle, obviously. It is a common knifemaker mistake to work with stock that is too thin. The ideal ratio for spine vs width is 1 to 3.5 +- 0.5 So a razor that is 8/8 wide, would need a spine that is at least 1/4" thick, and preferably just a bit wider. For an 8/8 razor I tend to forge to 5/16 thickness, give or take. That will be the optimum in edge retention and ease of honing. If the stock is too thin, the bevels will be wide, and honing will take a long time, after which the edge will deteriorate quickly because there is not a lot of supporting steel near the edge.

the term 'half hollow' refers to the deepness of the hollow grinding. It starts with a near wedge, whcih is very heavy. Then you get to quarter hollow, which is a bit more hollow. Half hollow comes next etc. Deeper hollows mean more grinding and trickier grinding, but easier honing because there is less steel to remove, and the bevels will be smaller as well.

Edited by SnailForge
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It aounds like the spine is being used as a honing angle gauge? I see that it would be more or less self correcting (the spine is honed thinner as the blade is honed narower? 

​That is correct. Although the amount of metal removed is exceedingly small. In normal use a razor edge will not chip or break. It usually only needs to be refreshed occasionally on an 8K grit hone (or something in that ballpark) or stropped on a pasted strop. You could use a razor your entire life and -barring accidents- not notice it getting smaller.

A razor edge is very thin. Any 'wiggle' on the stone would round it immediately. That is why from early 1800s onwards, razors got thicker spines in order to give them a fixed and almost unchanging honing angle jig, so to speak. This is the most common mistake knifemakers make when making a razor. Before 1800s, razors were fundamentally different, mand more like folding pocket knives with a thin spine.

1 layer of tape is very common. Especially with damascus razors, because people don't want to mar the spine where it touches the stone. A single layer of electricians tape is common, and does not noticeably influence the honing angle.

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I have a few old straight razors and have threatened several times to shave with them but I can't get them keen enough with the stones I have at home.  I butcher livestock and wild game so I understand edges but razors are another level of sharp.  Probably should send them out for professional sharpening.

Your work is exemplary.  Something for all of us to aspire to.

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Thank you for both the pictures of your work and the information. I've just gone from the category of knowing better than to mess with a straight razor because I know I don't know enough to competently strop it let alone sharpen it. Now I know enough to ask questions that would lead me to enough knowledge to maybe learn to sharpen a razor.

Beautiful work and no wonder making razors is what you do, owning one of yours would be something to brag about.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Thanks for the kind words everyone. By all means whenever I can help please ask.

I think it is wonderful if one can make a business out of what he is passionate about. I am passionate about straight razors, and I am lucky enough that I am able to build a business out of it and that I am good at it. I have been doing this for a long time. The benefit is that it never feels like work, and all the time I spend drawing in my sketch book and thinking about things is 'fun time' instead of a drag. I like nothing more than working out new personal designs. I tend to favor medieval / alien looking designs. I'll post some more pics with other designs I made.

The consequence of spending all my time on razors is that that's the only thing I dare call myself good at. I make kitchen knives from time to time, mostly to give away, and they're adequate at best. All the rest I wouldn't even know how to begin.

Edited by SnailForge
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 I don't know enough to competently strop it let alone sharpen it.

Frosty The Lucky.

​And this from a pretty stropy(at times) fellow ?:D  I don't see the sharpening as half as much a challenge as the scraping my face with something that sharp,  Yes I am a wus.

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​And this from a pretty stropy(at times) fellow ?:D  I don't see the sharpening as half as much a challenge as the scraping my face with something that sharp,  Yes I am a wus.

​If it's sharp you don't really scrape your face. Just don't move the blade longitudinally.

Frosty The Lucky.

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Yes Frosty, I used the 'scrape' as a description of the action, when I was in the army a southwest African showed me how to exfoliate with a sharp knife and drops of water in lieu of washing to minimize water use and as long as you didn't move the blade longitudinally you just removed a thin layer of skin cells(he incidentally   also converted me to shaving with aqueous cream which I do to this day). So despite the logic and knowledge it still gives me the heebie-jeebies !  

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