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Looking to find a reverse twisting jig


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I played around with reverse twists for a christmas project this year (actually last year, given that it's now 2015).  I saw this tool in a book:

 

post-9780-0-89336000-1421622567_thumb.jp

 

Now my question.

 

Is anyone making these for sale?  I have no welding capability beyond what I can do in my forge, and the wonderful fabricator I used to trade with is no longer attending my church.

 

Surely someone, somewhere is making these for resale.

 

Any hints, o wise smiths?

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What size stock are you trying to twist?

How long a twist do you need?

 

Someone once said:  "Do not build a box, that way you do not have to think outside the box."

 

If all you are looking for is a jig, then only a jig will do.

If you are looking to make a twist than may I suggest the following.

 

 

Use two pipe, crescent, open end, or other style wrenches either vertically or horizontally, which ever is easier to hold the metal. Use a another wrench to twist. 

 

You do not need to weld when you can drill holes and bolt a jig together. Just takes a little more planning on the front end to make it work.

 

In fact you could make the reverse twist by twisting one end, clamping the opposite end and reverse twisting from the middle. 

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the current project in mind is a fire poker which will be either 1/2" or 3/8" square stock.

 

In the long run, I'd like a jig, but in the short run, some HF crescent wrenches and bolts will indeed make a usable tool.

 

Thanks for helping expand my thinking.

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My 1st thought is if you can clamp your work piece in 2 vises, then twist with a wrench. If you have a bench vise and a portable post vise for example,  or even two cheap bench vises bolted to the same bench with enough room to swing the twisting wrench. If you needed more swing, maybe punch two stand offs to put in the vises. Fix the 1st piece in vise number 1. Say a 12' long piece of 2" x 1/2" plate square punched or notched to be the size of your stock. Then have a 2nd stand off ready to go. Heat the piece, insert in stand off #1 and then insert standoff #2 with the stock installed in the 2nd vise and start twisting. You could even do away with the vises and simply twist the notched bars 90 deg and bolt them to a stout bench. Drop the hot stock into the notches and twist.

 

 

Of course a welder makes making all sorts of tools and jigs easier and they aren't all that expensive used.

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Is the purpose of the jig to hold both ends of the work while you use a wrench in the center to create the reverse twist?

 

This will leave a flat spot rather than making a nice transition between the twists and is the reason I don't like the technique. I do the twists separately, but that's just my personal preference. In some applications I could see where that flat spot might come in handy. It all depends on the situation and particular project I guess.

 

BTW - before I discovered the flat spot in the middle, I was going to make a jig that was notched to hold the stock. You could forge one, no welding needed. There's a few different ways to go about it, I could try to sketch something for you, but its not really my strong suite.

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Eddie - if you used a tool made from round stock (a "U" shaped bar with a handle on the bottom of the "U") you will not get a flat spot like from using an adjustable wrench.


Alternatively grind off the corners of the jaws of an adjustable spanner to give you two half rounds coming together.

I usually end up grinding pressure pads like these with either the profile of the long side of an ellipse or a flat with shallow leads into a tightening radius, both of which cause less visible bruising than a half round.

Alan
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I can see where using a radiused or thinner profile would greately reduce the size of the gap between the twists (the corners of my wrench have been relieved), but I don't see how it will eliminate it. I like the transition from one to the other to flow together, uninterupted. But this also has its draw backs. I have to do reverse twists in two heats and they aren't always identical, but then again, I'm not doing production work and don't mind each being a little different. 

 

Not saying either method is right or wrong, just my observation and may just be an error in my techniqe or tooling. I might still make a jig, can't have too may tools afterall : ) .

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I can see where using a radiused or thinner profile would greately reduce the size of the gap between the twists (the corners of my wrench have been relieved), but I don't see how it will eliminate it. I like the transition from one to the other to flow together, uninterupted. But this also has its draw backs. I have to do reverse twists in two heats and they aren't always identical, but then again, I'm not doing production work and don't mind each being a little different.

Not saying either method is right or wrong, just my observation and may just be an error in my techniqe or tooling. I might still make a jig, can't have too may tools afterall : ) .

I should have been clearer but my observations were more a follow on from Jeremy k's description of a twisting wrench made from a round bar bent into a "U" and about the nature of softening the pressure points of tools generally rather than specifically for the centre point of "reverse" or "water" twists.

Dick Quinnell used to do a lot of "water" twists and he always used a gas torch and multiple heats quenching between each heat, as far as I remember, which gives the flow without a flat spot or need for a wrench anywhere near it.

Alan
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1/2" or 3/8" square will twist cold. put 1/2" square, inside a piece of 3/4 pipe (the pipe will keep it straight). Cold makes a very even twist!! No problem to use a Cresent wrench, just radius the edge of the jaws.

If you are going to twist it hot, straighten it with a wooden mallet (read-a piece of 2x4), on a wood stump/block. The wood will not nick your material.

If you were doing a production run of pokers, it would be worth while using a jig, otherwise......K.I.S.S.

 

Neil

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