attention post drill owners/restorers

[PCornett]

I bought  a Buffalo Forge No 616 about a year ago at an auction for $25. Looked decent shape but obviously had sat outside in grass and was rusted. it would not turn so I tried electrolysis on it and that didn't do it so now a year later I have a new plan. I don't have time to pend on this thing so I have mounted it up on my shed wall and oiled every joint and shaft opening that I could see. I then filled up the divot up at the top where the elevation wheel is to the brim.with motor 30W. I am asking for opinions about whether you think this will even work ( and time is not a problem at this pont, I can keep filling it this way for the next six months) or do I need to use the gallon of WD40 like some else suggested. Appreciate all answers. 

[jeremy k]

Good close up pics will help greatly.

[Vann]

The first post drill I picked up (an Australian made Dawn No.611) was seized up - at least the flywheel shaft was (it had no flywheel when I got it). I applied kerosine, but that didn't free it (not by itself). After a whille I tried heating it in SWMBO's oven (while she was out), and then running cold water over the exposed shaft. Eventually, and with the help of a copper hammer, I got it to shift. Be careful to support the surrounding casting when hammering - those iron casting can break :(

 

If, as you say, you don't have time to spend on it at present, then I think oiling all the oil ports etc, is probably a good way to go - though I would suggest maybe a thinner oil to get better penetration. But leave the WD40 until you're ready to put some time in.

 

My tuppence worth.

 

Cheers,  Vann.

[Farmall]

50/50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and acetone is supposed to be the best penetrant according to a 2007 study from Machinist's Workshop.  Kroil was the best rated product that wasn't homemade.

[Michael]

Second on the ATF/Acetone combo! It's freed up some really rusted stuck wheels for me.

[Jacob Nothstine]

PB Blaster you can fine it at most hardware stores. Works great, used it on my Post Drill, spray it on everyday and let it set. Took 3 days to free up the parts but worked. I have used it for year, only bad thing is it smells bad make sure you use it outside. 

[Robert Yates]

Here is some reading for you and Two (2) Oils that I use "Very Religiously ALL The Time !"

 

Reading Part 1

http://users.techline.com/palfac/military.html

 

Reading Part 2

http://users.techline.com/palfac/oilperform.html

 

Oil Site 1

http://users.techline.com/palfac/index.htm#3

 

Oil Site 2

http://enviropluslubrication.com/index.php?action=showpage&id=27

 

NO I do Not have any vested interest in either Company other then I use their Products .

 

Ret, Sgt. Robert Yates

[matto]

ATF and Acetone

[L Smith]

I always used a harbor freight heat gun on the thinnest portion of a bearing or casting and then used kroil. The thinnest area expands easily allowing the penetrant in.

[Ironmike]

For the last couple of years I have been using Fluid Flim check it out,It was developed by the US Navy during the 2nd world war for high salt areas. And in the Northeast thats all we have is salt and rust! I have used everything in over 60 years in my shops and this is super! (fluid-film.com) I use it to free things up,  To protect things and even as an undercoat the stuff works great

                                                                                Ironmike

[Ironmike]

More info on Navy Testing (http://www.fluid-film.com/testing.html)

                                                        Ironmike

[notownkid]

We used a spray product "Break Away" in our repair shop in Vermont one of the rust capitals of the US. Been out of the business for 18 yrs and once in a while find it in a NAPA store if they will order it for you. Great Stuff. WD40 is nice but not really a good heavy penetrant but 1000s of other uses even killing Carpenter Bees, great for the first lub. after it comes free.