Shewcrafter00 Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 I have a railroad spike that I found a little while ago and after a little thought I finally decided to make a tomahawk out of it. This will be my first hawk and I thought someone here might have some tips/advice that would make it easier for me. Any pictures/advice are greatly appreciated. Thanks! P.S.- My current forge is pretty small, as is my anvil, and I do not own a power hammer, although I know someone who does if it is absolutely needed. Just some extra info :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mitch4ging Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 You can do searches here on guys that have made some. You'll read that if you want a good edge, you will want to forge weld a bit on the edge, spliting the end that will be the cutting edge and inserting the bit steel. This is where your reading hear on how to do it, being comfortable with your own skill level to try this, and maybe even a youtube video if you can find a good one, will pay off. There is one (youtube vid) by a guy named Evan Bolin "railroad spike tomahawk demo" by Bladecrafters thats good and shows the process. You can also go over to the anvilfire site, on the left side select iforge how-to, select spike ax. Make sure you post pics when you get it done! ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan C Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 If you predrill small guide holes before punching and drifting you have a better chance of getting the eye right. This would be a good post to review, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shewcrafter00 Posted May 30, 2014 Author Share Posted May 30, 2014 Thanks for the tips. I actually already watched the video by Evan and saw the thing on Anvilfire, but it's good to hear people recommending them as well :). I will probably not weld in a bit, mostly because I would have to wait until I finish making my new forge and I have no idea how long that will take. I'm hoping to get some progress done today (on the hawk). I will make sure to take pictures when it is done! Also, thanks for the link, Dan. I'm sure that will be of use to me later on! I was thinking about case hardening the hawk once it's done, since I can not weld in my current forge. Has anyone tried this before? I thought it might work due to the relatively low amounts of carbon in RR spikes, however it might create some problems with sharpening. Maybe if you only sharpened it on one side? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 Are you planning to leave it in "as cased" condition? any clean up of the blade afterwards will substantially remove the case hardening. The big question is "why" go through all the work to make a low grade blade and then spend more time trying to "fix" it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan C Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 At least to me it would seem easier to forge weld in the bit for the cutting edge. Have you tried forge welding with your current setup? I haven't tried it as borax works pretty well for me, but iron mountain flux is supposed to work as lower temps. Then again before I learned to forge weld I made many axes and knives w/o welding in a bit of tool steel. Those do okay, though it's worth the time to do it right once you can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shewcrafter00 Posted May 30, 2014 Author Share Posted May 30, 2014 The RR spike is about the best usable piece of steel I have right now for a hawk, and since I can't weld, I was just looking for a way to give it a better edge. I probably won't use it a whole lot, and when I do use it I won't be super hard on it, so a good edge is not that important. Case hardening the blade was just an idea. When I get my forge done, I should be able to do a lot more. I have tried forge welding, but I can not get even very thin pieces nearly hot enough to weld. I get it to a bright orange color at best (I can barely get copper hot enough to make Mokume-gane). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan C Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 What are you using for a forge right now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shewcrafter00 Posted May 30, 2014 Author Share Posted May 30, 2014 I currently am still using my first forge that I made a few years ago. It is made out of a 2 pound coffee can insulated with 1.5 inches of ceramic blanket. For a burner I am using a bernzomatic propane torch (I forget which model). It has worked fine for me up until now which is why I am making a new one. I am not home right now but when I am I will try to get a picture up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan C Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 Ok, I have no experience with one like that. I have thought about making one for when I don't have time to fire my charcoal/coal forge. What type of forge are you building? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shewcrafter00 Posted May 30, 2014 Author Share Posted May 30, 2014 I am building a two-burner gas forge, probably out of an empty propane tank or a 5-gallon steel bucket, lined with 2 inches of ceramic blanket coated with ITC-100 or similar refractory. I will probably buy my burners from Rex Price at Hybridburners.com. I have heard very good things about his burners. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted May 30, 2014 Share Posted May 30, 2014 Perhaps you should wait until you have the equipment and skills. Work on the basic's more you wil get there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shewcrafter00 Posted May 30, 2014 Author Share Posted May 30, 2014 Steve, I appreciate the advice, however I am sort of already set on doing this project and since it will likely be hanging on my wall or just used as a decoration, it doesn't really need to be able to hold an edge. I'm not trying to make anything functional; it's more of just something to do while I am out of school for the summer. Also, my inability to weld is not due to my lack of skill; I just can't get the metal hot enough in my tiny forge. I hope I'm not coming across as mad or offended or anything like that, I just know what I want to do and don't really feel like quitting now, that's all :) . I really do appreciate the advice. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shewcrafter00 Posted May 30, 2014 Author Share Posted May 30, 2014 Well, it seems everyone here really likes pictures, so here are a few of what I got done today. I didn't get too much done because I got a nasty blister on my palm, but at least it's something :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan C Posted May 31, 2014 Share Posted May 31, 2014 Good so far! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mitch4ging Posted May 31, 2014 Share Posted May 31, 2014 Looking good, Sven. I'm on my phone, so I'm not able to zoom much, but it looks you might be getting some fish lips on your cutting edge, which could lead to cold shunts. You can hammer it back flush, and maybe get it hotter in the center before working it, although you said your forge is somewhat limited on the heat output. But also as you work it thinner, you will get more heating deeper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shewcrafter00 Posted May 31, 2014 Author Share Posted May 31, 2014 Thanks for the replies! What you said about the fish lips was right; I was just about to fix that when I noticed the blister on my hand :(. I'm hoping it will be gone by tomorrow so I can make some progress and post some more pictures :) ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benton Frisse Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 I like forging things out of railroad spikes, I've forged a few hawks myself. They may not be the best of carbon, but they have a great look and will get the job done for shaving kindling or branch hackers. I carry my first one in my pack when I go places outdoors. You never know when you'll need it! . I keep a rough look on mine, it's just my preference. I have a long way to go, though. I've had trouble getting some of them to harden, and a friend mentioned that instead of used motor oil he can get them to mildly harden in water... but some crack. Kayne & Son has a great pair of modified goose neck tongs that are made to specifically hold RR spikes. They make a huuuuuuuge difference trying to hold on to the buggers. I like how creative you can get with spikes. Granted, you see a lot of the same styles with them, but there seems to be a lot of ways one can make their work unique. Hope that helps! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan C Posted June 2, 2014 Share Posted June 2, 2014 For the ones where I don't forge weld in better steel, I quench in ice water and then bake in the oven at 350 for one hour only to relieve forging stress. I haven't had one crack yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Candidquality Posted June 3, 2014 Share Posted June 3, 2014 Well, it seems everyone here really likes pictures, so here are a few of what I got done today. I didn't get too much done because I got a nasty blister on my palm, but at least it's something :) That's a pretty good start. Next time you might try using tongs and a hammer instead of your hands to reduce the blisters. Might go a tad faster too. ;) Kidding aside. If you have a picture of your setup, drop it in so we can see what you are working with. I read your description, but it does more good to see the size of the opening, the position of the burner, etc. might be able to squeeze a bit more heat out of your setup with a nudge here and there until you get your new forge built. odds are you're already maxed out with the propane at just under 2000F. works well for copper at 1650 or so. But even a little carbon in the steel and it wants to be worked at about 2200. If you've been forging steel with your setup, you'll notice the new forge steel will turn to butter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shewcrafter00 Posted June 4, 2014 Author Share Posted June 4, 2014 Sorry I haven't been on in a while, I've been busy and it's been hot here so I haven't been able to do much forging, but I got a little more done on the hawk. Benton, thanks for the link; if I decide to make anymore RR spike hawks or knives or whatever I will look into getting some of those tongs :) . Dan, thanks for the advice on heat treating; I will be sure to try that. Candid, I took your advice and switched over to a hammer & tongs; haven't had any more blisters since ;) . I took some pictures of my forge and anvil so you can see what I'm working with, as well as the hawk itself. Thanks for all the help! P.S.- The hockey puck on top of my forge in the third picture is for scale only; I don't actually keep it there while I'm forging ;) . P.P.S.- I know my forge lining is terrible, I have been meaning to replace it for a while and just haven't got around to ordering more liner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mitch4ging Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 Hey, it's coming along! I know you'll be happy when you get your new forge up and roaring! are you going to try to drift with your current forge? Keep hammering! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shewcrafter00 Posted June 6, 2014 Author Share Posted June 6, 2014 Thanks, Mitch! I think I will try drifting with this forge, although instead of cutting the slit with a chisel, I will probably drill a few holes in it and cut the slit with a hack saw. Then I will drift it out. I don't think I would be able to get it hot enough to cut the slit with a chisel in my current forge. I can't seem to find a steel 5-gallon bucket anywhere, but when I do, it won't be long before I have a new forge up and running! :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan C Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 Drilling the pilot holes is good to do regardless as it helps to get the eye straight. Looks good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eggwelder Posted June 8, 2014 Share Posted June 8, 2014 you could try super quench on the spike. i use it exclusively for the spikes around here, and it gives a decent hawk edge if you use it for throwing or light work. that being said, thats all these are good for anyway. and for gifts. people love them. as for steel buckets, try the local janitorial supply/cleaning chemical warehouse. some of the enzymes used for cleaning garberator drains in industrial kitchens (think army base) come in steel buckets. most cleaning chemical comes in plastic, but a very few react with the plastic and must be in steel. wash it really well before you stick your head in it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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