Graham Gates(Ionic Muffin) Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 I found a nice round steel bar with some nice ring to it. Looked like it was some kind of axle shaft or something like that. I skipped the forklift tine this time because I did not have the money to get it. There are so many cheap pieces of steel there Ill have to make another run to get more scrap for beating on. For 10 $ I got a 22 lb bar at 2" diameter and 2x 1 1/4" steel bars about 5 lbs each which I plan to make some nice hammers out of them. I should also be able to make some other tools from another scrap run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 Sounds like a win, especially if it's an axle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 Remember to test the "possible hammer steel" for hardenability before doing the work on making a hammer from it---though having a soft hammer around is a handy thing too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Gates(Ionic Muffin) Posted May 13, 2014 Author Share Posted May 13, 2014 How do I do that? do you have a link to some guide or video showing or explaining how? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the iron dwarf Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 here is a way to try it if you want cut off a thin slice of the bar, file it a little to see how hard it feels. with a center punch just let a hammer fall from a pre determined height to mark the surface heat to bright red and quench ( you might want to do a couple of pieces to compare oil and water quench ) when cool try the same file, hammer and center punch and compare results to see if it is brittle compare an unhardened piece to a hardened piece clamp a disc the size of a large coin in your vise with just over half protruding above the jaws, hit it with a hammer once to bend it, now try a hardened one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 Spark testing will give a very general carbon content but the gold standard is the "Heat Quench Break" Remember that higher carbon alloys are only used when they are absolutely needed by manufacturers as they are more expensive to buy and work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Gates(Ionic Muffin) Posted May 16, 2014 Author Share Posted May 16, 2014 Here are some pictures of the anvil all set up. Its been used a bit and the surface is a bit dented but it will function as is until I want to start making knives. http://www.iforgeiron.com/gallery/image/38192-anvil-face/ http://www.iforgeiron.com/gallery/image/38193-whole-anvil/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylan the Bruce Posted May 16, 2014 Share Posted May 16, 2014 Simple and effective. I like it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 If twice a year you ground of a 1/16th of an inch how many years before it became too small to use? Compare that to your statistical lifespan estimates. Times a wasting---get to pounding! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted May 19, 2014 Share Posted May 19, 2014 Yea, I don't see anything wrong with that face. Hammer hot steel on it and you'll have it polished smooth in no time at all. You certainly won't see any scars in your work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Gates(Ionic Muffin) Posted June 6, 2014 Author Share Posted June 6, 2014 I've been wondering if its worth my time and money to weld a chunk of forklift tine to this anvil to make a greater striking surface and maybe add a horn and a hardie hole. I would gain square edges and the horn I'm sure would be nice, but I don't know if its worth the effort and if it will be effective. I'm just thinking ahead because although I don't need it now and may never need it, it still would be nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbo7 Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 if you do get the forklift tine i'd just wack it across two post, until then if you need a square edge how about grinding a square side on the axle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Gates(Ionic Muffin) Posted June 6, 2014 Author Share Posted June 6, 2014 if you do get the forklift tine i'd just wack it across two post, until then if you need a square edge how about grinding a square side on the axle? thats a good idea, i think ill do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 There's nothing wrong with your anvil. Vikings were making great works of art with anvils that were far less than what you have. The london-pattern anvil that you seek to emulate has only been around for some 200 years, and there's zero reason to think you're limited or handicapped because you don't have similar features on your post anvil. Look at the youtube videos of third-world smiths making great blades with nothing more than a sledgehammer head for an anvil. It's the singer, not the song. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted June 6, 2014 Share Posted June 6, 2014 All I'd do to modify your anvil is grind a radius on ONE side. Other than that it's a perfectly fine anvil, I've worked on much less anvil like things. London pattern is over rated, I use the horn on mine most often as a bottom drawing die. I turn rings, scrolls, etc. on the edge and face. I rarely use the horn on the Soderfors to true up a ring if there isn't a piece of shaft handy. Yeah, I use a piece of 2+" dia shaft instead of a horn almost all the time. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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