homeshow Posted November 6, 2013 Share Posted November 6, 2013 I have some dull farrier's grasps. Rasp on one side and file on the other. I'd like to know how some of you heat treat you rasp 'hawks and knives. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfootnampa Posted November 6, 2013 Share Posted November 6, 2013 If the rasp is solid steel they are often something like 1090 or 1095 and would be heat treated the same as new steel of that type. Some of the cheaper rasps are only case hardened and not going to hold an edge well... best to weld in a bit of higher carbon steel for those and heat treat according to the type steel used for the bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmccustomknives Posted November 6, 2013 Share Posted November 6, 2013 First thing I do is heat the tang up to non magnetic and quench half of it (the tang) in water. Put it in a vice (wear safety gear) a inch or so up the tang and see if you can bend it. A clean break means you're probably working with an all high carbon steel file. If it bends or doesn't easily break then it may be case hardened. Case hardened files are for rasp snakes, I wouldn't wast the time making them into knives. Treat the high carbon ones like 1095 and you should be close. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BCROB Posted November 6, 2013 Share Posted November 6, 2013 anneal at approx temp 1550F for few minutes cool in vermiculite overnight heat treat - same as anneal , 1550F for a few minutes quench in canola approx 125-140F temp - 425F for 60 , let cool repeat for 60min here's couple recent ones that are already posted.........good luck with it working on this one at the moment....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted November 6, 2013 Share Posted November 6, 2013 Ah annealing *is* a heat treat, it's just not hardening! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Romo Posted November 6, 2013 Share Posted November 6, 2013 BCROB, those are VERY nice knives. I especially like the handguard on the bottom one. I do have to say that the lines on the first one are pleasing to the eye. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BCROB Posted November 7, 2013 Share Posted November 7, 2013 BCROB, those are VERY nice knives. I especially like the handguard on the bottom one. I do have to say that the lines on the first one are pleasing to the eye. thank you Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
homeshow Posted November 7, 2013 Author Share Posted November 7, 2013 Those first 2 knives are why I decided to try a farrier's rasp knife. Thanks to all of you for the advice. IFI can really be a great resource. Rob the background selection as well as the look of those knives is top notch! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BCROB Posted November 7, 2013 Share Posted November 7, 2013 Those first 2 knives are why I decided to try a farrier's rasp knife. Thanks to all of you for the advice. IFI can really be a great resource. Rob the background selection as well as the look of those knives is top notch! thank you sir , appreciate your compliments..............hope the heat treating tips help you some , good luck , look forward to your pictures !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Romo Posted December 13, 2013 Share Posted December 13, 2013 First thing I do is heat the tang up to non magnetic and quench half of it (the tang) in water. Put it in a vice (wear safety gear) a inch or so up the tang and see if you can bend it. A clean break means you're probably working with an all high carbon steel file. If it bends or doesn't easily break then it may be case hardened. Case hardened files are for rasp snakes, I wouldn't wast the time making them into knives. Treat the high carbon ones like 1095 and you should be close. I just did this and WHAMMO!!! Good steel. Snapped off beautifully. Thank you jmc!!! This one goes in the mental file cabinet!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arkie Posted December 13, 2013 Share Posted December 13, 2013 jmc, thanks X2 for the info on the bending test. Sometimes the spark test is not very definitive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Colglazier Posted April 18, 2016 Share Posted April 18, 2016 On 11/5/2013 at 9:05 AM, BCROB said: When I quench in oil mine won't harden, but they will in brine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolface2 Posted October 5, 2020 Share Posted October 5, 2020 On 11/6/2013 at 9:05 AM, BCROB said: anneal at approx temp 1550F for few minutes cool in vermiculite overnight May u email me a pic your heat treated rasp color. I couldn't see them here email address removed per TOS Id like to see how yellow the rasp should be as well as a 1095 steel please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted October 5, 2020 Share Posted October 5, 2020 BCROB last posted here in 2017; you may have a long wait for a reply! You do know that digital pictures are unlikely to be the true colour of hot items right? Now if this is about low temp, "temper colours", "straw" is a descriptive term. It's suggest you try something and see if YOU like the results. For blades I make for myself I often temper differently than for ones made for other people. (I like being able to sharpen on a good arkansas stone and not need a diamond hone!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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