Andrew Colglazier

I haven't, but I will now. I appreciate the tip. It will no doubt save me time in the future. Thank you!

Yes sir. Hardening isn't the problem. They harden in brine, but warping is a problem. If I quench in oil, they don't warp, but don't seem to harden either.

Yes, could be the problem. These are Safecut and no name. I usually use Heller. I will move this to the knife section, since you didnt notice it

I grind bare handed. If they get too hot to touch, I dip in water.

When I quench in oil mine won't harden, but they will in brine.

Anneal - heat to non-magnetic, bury in hot go get ashes and allow to cool overnight. Grind with belt grinder. Normalize - heat to non-magnetic and let air cool 3x. Quench - heat to non-magnetic, quench in brine (or oil). If oil, the oil is warmed to +- 130. Temper - place in convection oven for 1 hour at 450. Allow to cool to the touch, repeat 3x. The blade will warp but harden in brine, won't warp or harden (file test) in oil. Actually the forged blades are somewhat thinner than stock removal.

Good questions - I don't know if I'm overheating. I'm going by color and demagnetization. I've been using brine with forged blades, with a small amount of warping, but these blades seem to be more prone to warping (stock removal) Annealing - grinding - normalizing x 3 - quench. I'm making knives. They have been large single edge blades.

The rasps I have harden in brine, but warp, even when normalized. They do not seem to harden (or warp) in oil. What to do? Does stock removal vs forging make a difference in how rasps behave when quenching? Any help welcome!