MJL14 Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 Hey guys, I've been reading a few of these topics, but none really answered my questions so here I go! I've got an open fire forge, so how fire proof does the walls and ceiling have to be? How much air ventilation is needed? Is a chimney necessary with the proper amount of air ventilation? How high of a ceiling is necessary? I'll quit rambling now. Any answers appreciated. Thanks Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yves Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 You always need a chimney indoors. You have to let as much air in as goes out through the chimney. The higher the ceiling, the more difficult to heat in the winter (tell us where you live). The lower the ceiling the more difficult it is to manipulate long steel/iron bars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 YES! NO! MAYBE?--------Your question is indeterminante without more data; eg: Since your forge will be 40' from the wall and 20 ' from the ceiling and you will be doing only small items in a bean can forge you need NO fireproofing. Since your forge will abut the wall and the ceiling is only 4' above it and you are working 2" sq stock---your shop has already burnt down. Do you have to meet local codes? Insurance requirements? Business or hobby? The only general statements I can come up with is that having a fireproofed structure is just a good idea in general---never having to worry about a stray piece of hot steel flying across the shop and disappearing. Also forges have a controlled heat; I recently talked with our campsite fire marshall who wanted an enourmous area cleared around the forge due to the heat it supposedly put off. I pointed out that I spend a large part of 6-8 hours with my "wedding tackle" less than 2' from the fire wearing combustible cotton clothing with nary a singe... In my 20'x30'x10' shop I have all steel walls and ceiling---bar a section of fiberglass as a skylight located 15' down the shop form the forge area. It was cheaper to build that way! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 Welcome aboard Mike, glad to have you. Please put your general location in the header You might be surprised at how many IFI folk live within visiting distance and hands on time with an experienced smith is worth exponentially more time figuring it out yourself. If you're setting up shop in an open, concrete hangar then the answer is no. Otherwise your questions are too vague to be answerable in a meaningful manner, Thomas' replies are examples to the point. there are a number of variables to address and you must supply those variables as specifically as possible or you're not going to get anything useful. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJL14 Posted September 9, 2013 Author Share Posted September 9, 2013 Thanks guys, I've got a older coal fueled forge made by the, Buffalo Forge Company and I'm just not sure how much precaution to take, and avoid burning down my building.... And how large of a chimney does it need to be, for that kind of forge? And to answer your questions Thomas, no no and, hobby Thanks Again! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 The common consences is 12" flue pipe, as to fire risk, old barn tin on the lower half of the wall isn't a bad idea, then again I get careles and many the upper half the wall with long stock. If you have exposers you are worked about (any building close to or attached to your shop) that you don't want to risk burning, a couple of layers of drywall is pretty cheap insuarace. That said I forge either off my truck in fields and barns or in an old cow shed on my place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 Buffalo made forges from small little things to giant major shop ones; where does yours fit in? Try calling some local roofers about sourcing used tin---my shop has a nice hammered look to it due to a major hailstorm locally---and was free! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJL14 Posted September 9, 2013 Author Share Posted September 9, 2013 Mine has a 1" by 1" firebox, so not really sure where that ranks, as I'm pretty knew to forging. So is metal on the inside necessary? Or just a larger chimney above my forge? Thanks once more! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted September 10, 2013 Share Posted September 10, 2013 Metal isn't necessary, more strictly is fire rated drywall but when a red hot piece of steel goes flying across the shop because you missed a blow its nice to know it won't be lodging in a crack between to bone dry pieces of 2x4. Like I said, I don't work in ideal conditions, so I keep a fire extinguisher in the truck, and I have the client drag out the hose "to fill my slack tub". Lose hay can be a real hazard. At home the main shops is tin lined, but I forge out of an old cow shed, that I haven't lined yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSW Posted September 10, 2013 Share Posted September 10, 2013 There are all sorts of fire resistant materials you can use. "Tin", or more correctly probably sheet steel or alum would work well against most incidental contact with hot metal. Fire rated drywall would be a decent all around fire resistant construction. So would the various concrete based tile backers that are sold for ceramic tile installation ( I use a 1/4" thick chunk of this to protect walls from direct flame contact while soldering pipes). Cement fiber siding is another good fire resistant option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forger Posted September 10, 2013 Share Posted September 10, 2013 Hi this is my current shop. It is all wood except cement backerboard for the floor. This is before the first fire was lit. It's still standing after 3 years of use. I've added grinders, a drill press, a gas forge, and it's crammed to the gills with stuff. It is 8x12 feet on skids so I can take it with me when I move. Could it burn down tomorrow? Yes, but I could drop dead also. Nothing is garranteed, we all must assume the risk of what we do. I control my risk as best I can. Safety is always OUR/MY responsibility, so I plan, build and behave appropriately, and be prepared. In over 30 years I've never had a problem. Yes, I make sure the fire is out, I know where or find every piece of red hot schrapnel lands before it can smolder into a problem. These are things that are inherent in blacksmithing. Yes, I have friends that had their shops burn to the ground, yes, thats the risk we take. I love this craft so much that I'm willing to take that risk. I'm sorry for this rant but I've read too many of these posts that pussyfoot the reality of life and the choices we make. Accept the responsibility or find another hobby. Don't worry I have my Nomex on. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJL14 Posted September 10, 2013 Author Share Posted September 10, 2013 Alright guys, So what kind of chimney is recommended? Thanks once more. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted September 10, 2013 Share Posted September 10, 2013 Side sucker is one of the great chimneys for smithing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted September 10, 2013 Share Posted September 10, 2013 A simple steel duct 10 or 12" works it draws a lot of shop air with the smoke, improves your working conditions a bunch. The side draft, or "super sucker" types are off to the side for when you get something big and unwieldy in the forge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted September 10, 2013 Share Posted September 10, 2013 Forger, As to everyone wimping out and erring on the side of safty. I think there are a few reasons for that, one if I pass on my bad habits and some one looses their house, life or a love ones life I will feel guilt, and regret. Second I don't want a prosses server showing up on my door notifying me I'm being sued for offering patently unsafe advice. Lets explore an example or two, "you don't need safty glasses, just squint that's what eyelashes are for" now I admit to doing this more often than I should (now that I'm older my opptomitrist apritiates the return business to replace my prescriptian eye glasses) but this is woefully bad advice, a case of cronic ignorance if you really believe it and pass I on as good, safe practice. Another would be to advise some one "don't wory about the galvinised steel, the zinc will burn off in the forge" again bad advice, a practice that has cost at least one of our members his life. So, I like many others will continue to "wimp out" I will first give you my take on what is ideal safe practice, then I will show you what I do in its absence. If you think that makes me a "wimp" fine, you come on down here and I'll take you out next time I have to shoe "Milly" the 18 hand Clydsdale mule. I think mule wrastling should be an olimpic sport. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted September 10, 2013 Share Posted September 10, 2013 Mine has a 1" by 1" firebox, so not really sure where that ranks, as I'm pretty knew to forging. :rolleyes: So is metel on the inside nessesary? Or just a larger chimmney above my forge? Thanks once more! Mike you may wish to proof read your posts better (so weird ME saying that HUH ? ) 1 X 1 inch is a very small forge even for tiny jewlery work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJL14 Posted September 11, 2013 Author Share Posted September 11, 2013 you may wish to proof read your posts better (so weird ME saying that HUH ? ) 1 X 1 inch is a very small forge even for tiny jewlery work. Sorry typing fast and not looking back :D (and its 1 foot by 1 foot) Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013 No harm, Steve isn't the worst offender (have you looked at my posts?). Is it square, and say 5-6" deap or is it round or octagon and 3-4"? The deep square is a big pot, good for general forging and will happily heat big peices ( get a striker or 2) the other one is originaly for shoes and rivets. It burns les fuel, and has to be managed a bit different to get a deap enugh fire and it will generally be smaller (say 6" ball) you will have fuel and ash mounded up to make a 6" deap fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJL14 Posted September 11, 2013 Author Share Posted September 11, 2013 Haha will keep in mind. :D It's the deeper square one; is that a better size? Seems to work pretty good so far. :P Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles R. Stevens Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013 Oh yea, it's an industrial pot. It's not the most fuel efficient for small work but its the bomb if your working on 4" stock. You need strikers and a big anvil! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJL14 Posted September 13, 2013 Author Share Posted September 13, 2013 Yea I got a pretty good sized anvil at 175lb, works pretty sweet! :P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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