Pieces looking rough

[Hutch88]

When I finish something I'm working on it always comes out really rough. I've started brushing all the scale off when I pull it out of the fire. What can I do to make my work look clean when I'm finished?

[bigfootnampa]

Pay attention to the finish on your anvil, tools and hammers!  When you forge your stock those finish textures are transferred onto it.  Also do the final surface texturing as the stock cools and keep brushing the scale off of your anvil surfaces.  Dress your hammers and anvils to remove any sharp corners.  Avoid overheating the stock... sparks mean burnt stock and very rough finishes! 

[Rich Hale]

The brush used is a big key..In the past  days butchers used a hand held wire brush to clean the fat meat and scrap from the wooden table the cut meat on. Those butcher block brushes are sold in most local farrier supply stores and most of the blacksmith mail order places. they are big with a large handle and you can really do well with them. If you are using mild steel for your work and having problems removing scale you can use a dull red heat and give the piece a quick in and out dip in water, then wire brush even more. That will sometimes pop the scale off. And of course this is based on it looking poorly due to scale. If wot you are seeing is hammer marks and results of your forging, then just keep at it ,,the better your work is the nicer your finish will be..Joining a group and seeing wot they do is a big step in improving.

[Hutch88]

Thanks a lot. I think it's a little bit of both. I'll definitely keep at it.

[Steve Sells]

one thing I do for my blades, is after getting close to final profile, I change out my normal working 4.6# hammer for a 2# hammer, using lighter hammer means lighter impacts to smooth things out even more.  fisrt of course is to learn not to leave hammer marks in the first place.  try a lighter hammer for finshing the shaping and see how that helps, you may be in for a supprise.

[Frosty]

I do my finish forging at a lower heat with my finishing hammer, it has a flat polished face and well radiused edges. my Sodorfors has a very clean unblemished face so it's good as is. I finish at a <low red and rapid light blows with my elbow indexed on my hip to keep blows consistent. If necessary I use a flatter, all my flatters are polished.

 

This is a perfect example of a little knowledge and practice practice practice. don't worry, we've all been there, heck I'm learning to get consistent again. <sigh>

 

Frosty The Lucky.

[Frank Turley]

Put a little water on the anvil for the finish low heats and wet the hammer face. The thermal shock will help pop any residual scale. Wet flatters are likewise used on the wet anvil face at the lower finishing heats.

[Hutch88]

I appreciate all the great info. I can't wait to try it out.

[John B]

Too much air blast can also give a rough finish,

[rockstar.esq]

Frank's idea works well- Just be prepared for a heck of a bang!  Water turns to steam most rickety tick on hot steel.  I scared the heck out of myself the first time I did it.  Once the scale is loose, brush it off the anvil before continuing.

 

John's point is well made as well.  A generous bed of coke at modest blast seems to create less scale than a stingy bed with a high air blast.

[Hutch88]

I'm using quite a bit of lump charcoal and a hair dryer on high. I'll try turning it down a little bit

[eric sprado]

The old Cavalry shoeing instructor I learned my trade from used to put a little water on his anvil face if kids were getting too close. He'd say "You kids get back, you never know what might blow up around here". He'd then whack a hot shoe on that spot and the kids would go flying when they heard that pop!!! Fond memory.

[metalmangeler]

One thing not mentioned yet is that if you can get the job done in less heats that will often end up with a better finish. There are less oppertunities to build scale, drive it into the steel, and last and I am not sure of the why, but often over worked items look tired. This may be one of those things that you will only be able to over come with time at the forge and skill.

[windancer]

I have been soaking my finished work in Muratic acid [50% Water, 50% acid] overnight. A quick wipe or two with a wet rag and the work is absolutely sparkling clean.

Be sure and add finish right away- it will rust up in minutes otherwise.