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June Cleaver

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Here is my latest piece (crossing fingers that the photo works). I guess I sort of named it June.Made from a rail spike and a piece if leaf spring.My propane forge doesn't get hot enough to forge weld(I wanted to attach the two that way),so I stick welded them together.Quenched in veggie oil and tempered in my kitchen oven.I only sanded down to 400 grit.....the blade had some ugly hammer marks from me using my 5lb hammer to work the blade.I won't be using that anymore for anything that needs control.Anyway,let me know what you think....assuming my photo shows.

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Well now that you've taken care of June.What about Wally and the Beav? :huh:

Nice. I agree with Steve though. It would look much better forge welded. But believe me, I feel your pain on not getting hot enough. The methane forges we use get so close that it's kills a little piece of you when it just won't get there.

No wood or epoxies to get loose from heavy use. Welds sealed all of the gaps. High points for function. I like the.way it looks too.

It's all good. Maybe Mike H. could chime in as his rr spike/san mai demo at the Weaverville, Ca. hammerin was excellent and was done in a coal forge.

john

  • Author

Thanks Rich!

 

Steve, my forge consists of a brick pile and a homemade(modified Ron Reil type I think) burner that my father-in-law made/gave me.I think I need something that reflects heat a little more than the firebrick,but yes.....I do need to do something about it. :)

 

Doc, I think I hastily named this cleaver.Chances are that I will not make any companion pieces for this one( Ward and Beav ),,,and lets face it,June really was much more refined than this cleaver.

 

BC89,Aesthetically I would have rather forge welded......one day.

 

Thanks homeshow!!.....my welding isn't the greatest so "sealed all the gaps" might be strectching it a bit. I did get some good penetration though.

 

Thank you LB!!

 

I am very open to info for better results gearhartironwerks .

looks good to me

I think your aesthetics are spot on!  Everything flows real good. I get scared whenever anybody stick welds onto leafspring. The Heat affected zone is unpredictable, I would soak in the forge for a bit to help relieve weld stresses, before heat treating. I think you did a beauty piece. Personally, I would have investigated some artsy rivet work to join the two, if forge welding is out. I realize that could leave a gap here or there for bacteria to grow. Darned if you do, darned if you don't... Great job. 

mh

Lovely, simple design. I like it.

 

I've got a couple of hunks of 'good' steel I've been saving until I figured out what to do with them.  This has given me Food for Thought.

i love it I was tired of seeing all the RR spikes just mangled mostly seen on ebay LOL any way it looks great and functional, this is the cleaver everyone was chatting about the last knife chat very nice sir may just have to "borrow" your idea if its ok B) I got plenty of saw blade steel which I believe to be either L6 or 15n20...

  • Author

Thanks lab!

 

Much appreciated Mike!! Yes after welding I did get it up to temp for a while and then let it cool in the forge.Then it was onto grinding and finally HT .I will definitely think about rivets for a future project.I always want to try new methods.I am currently working on a coal forge,so hopefully I will have forge welding capability in the near future.Thanks again!

 

Thank you PE, glad to give some "food for thought" back as I am always looking for some myself.

 

sanch,thank you I have seen a lot of RR spikes mangled too....lol.I have made 3 so far,and I try to do something a little different with each one.I haven't been to knife chat yet.I have tried to read past ones before,but I don't know what is going on.Seems to be a lot of info to sift through.Maybe I need to try a live one. If you see an idea you like,I say take it and run,and make it your own,Be sure to share some photos with us when you are done.

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