Would a piece of rock actually give you superior rebound to a cast iron Anvil shaped object?

Not all rocks are created equal. 

True, Density and chemical compositon are going to be a factor. Perhaps a hard igneous rock like Granite or Basalt?

Anvilfire's rebound test of an 8" thick granite plate @ 85% rebound...
 
 
 
By my experience, testing out a 220 lb. cast iron ASO with a 1" chrome ball bearing dropped from 12 inches... I got an inch return...
 
I'd rather learn how to crochet frog hairs than work steel on an ASO. If it's the only thing you have, I would still suggest you work on something else... like another hammer (sledge)... You will notice the difference instantly.

The one you have is always better than the one in the picture book. Unless you are counting DREAMS!!!

Regardless, If all you have is a rock, find the Hard Place!! Just don't get stuck there!!

Use what you have at hand, NOT what someone thinks you should have, UNLESS they are buying!!!! :) :)

 

Neil

It is worth remembering that the ball bearing test result really has very little effect on how hot steel/iron is worked on an anvil . rebound is really not important when working a squashy hot material between hammer and anvil.

It is worth remembering that the ball bearing test result really has very little effect on how hot steel/iron is worked on an anvil . rebound is really not important when working a squashy hot material between hammer and anvil.

I would repectfully dissagree.  I've worked with ASO's with very little rebound, some with 50% and one with close to 90% and the difference is very noticable.  The first gave me a bad case of tendenitus in my elbow because I was having to strike so hard.  The second was a marked improvement.  I cut the amount of work almost in half with a "real" anvil. 

As far as the rock goes, as a young teenager in the mountains of Arkasas I was into geology and tried to get a sample of a large basalt stone.  The rock was so hard my hammer chipped and the flying piece of steel cut my hand.  That rock would have made a good sub for an anvil.

Not being able to find anyone locally who would teach me anything about blacksmithing, and there being no internet, all I had was Alex Bealer's book and a dream.

 

25+ years ago I bought a cast iron Anvil Shaped Object labeled only "100" and "CHINA" from a discount tool dealer, for, what else, the supposed going rate for anvils, $1/pound. The face was so soft that it deformed under red hot iron, and had less rebound than a slab of concrete. It was such a dis-heartening experience that it put me off blacksmithing for years, until a chance meeting with someone who had just come back from a sword-making class with Don Fogg.

 

So yes, purchasing a bad ASO is actually worse than having no anvil at all. It is a waste of time, money, spirit and energy.

 

Bear in mind than I am not talking about Vulcans, or Fishers, or any cast iron anvil with a steel face, but a 100% cast iron counterfeit anvil shaped object.

My 25+ year old 110 lb Buffalo from Taiwan actually has a 7" rebound from 10" directly over the waist.  At the heel between 5-6". 

Since it was a freebie,  I have used it as necessary over the years; working 3/4 sucker rod I can tell a difference from the shop anvil at work. 

Hence, my year long search for a real anvil.  In the meantime, I've switched to using a 4x4x24" of 4140QT on end for anything over 3/8 mild steel.  The difference is significant.  

When you hit down the anvil hits up. The more bounce in the anvil the better that upward blow. That is why you want elasticity. Hammering on cast iron you are just driving the steel into the cast iron.