eric sprado Posted June 10, 2012 Share Posted June 10, 2012 I have somebody that wants me to make a bunch of small garden tools. The forging part will be easy,BUT, I know NOTHING about handles. The flat ones,of course,will simply have flat handle part on each side riveted together but what about the round ones? I see garden tools with wooden handles with ferrules and not seeming to have rivets or tangs stuck through that were hammered over. What keeps those ferruled handles on? How do you fit them. This could turn into a large ongoing order ( do I REALLY want that!) but I'd like to know how much effort handles will be. Make them? Buy them? HELP please!!!!!! Eric in Deadwood Oregon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John B Posted June 10, 2012 Share Posted June 10, 2012 Hi Eric, A lot depends on the tools purpose and how it is used, A pulling tool will normally need a different type of fitting as those used on shearing tools, and shearing tools may each require a different fitting. Socketed tools eg spades, hoes, rakes, are usually rivetted on through the socket after fitting the handle Pulling type tools (and some others) eg drawknives will have rings or ferrules fitted to prevent the handle splitting , the tangs then pass through the handles and are secured in place by rove (washer type object) and rivetting or bending the end of the tang over to secure the handle in place Shearing tools eg hedge trimmers/garden shears that have slotted ferrules on them rely on a fit similar to a wooden file handle, and the tang may be "barbed" to help secure the grip onto the blade. Some shearing tools,eg Scythes, along with hacking type tools eg adze, picks etc use eyes which may have a single taper to enable easy withdrawal, and also firmer grip as it is constantly used, or a double taper and wedge as hammer heads are fitted These are generalisations and there are other options including epoxies etc that no doubt others will be more forthcoming with. Hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGGUNDOCTOR Posted June 10, 2012 Share Posted June 10, 2012 Most of the rakes,forks, and hoes are simply shoved into a tight hole. Works for awhile then they fall out once the handle dries out some. The handle really depends on how it is to e used. Many times the handle attachment was what was best to make a profit, not a great tool. What are you making? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LarryM Posted June 10, 2012 Share Posted June 10, 2012 If you have questions about wooden handles these guys can answer them for you. Just so you know scoll down the page to view thier products. Neat web page all sorts of handles. http://www.househandle.com/ Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted June 11, 2012 Share Posted June 11, 2012 Many of the old higher grade tools used a socket that was forged from the same piece of steel as the shaft---if there is not joint then it can't come apart. The real old ones had wrought iron sockets forge welded to the high C "working end". You will really need to investigate manufacturing procedures if you will be doing a *lot* of them and see if the profit margin can sustain buying ferrules or outsourcing heat treating or finishing... Personally my small shop would be more of a "it's $5 a piece for 10 and $10 a piece for 100" as I would have to tool up to make lots of them efficiently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric sprado Posted June 11, 2012 Author Share Posted June 11, 2012 Thanks Thomas: Actually this is one of the times when folks are not only willing,but wanting to pay for a tool that is hand forged and "looks it". I have looked into attachment methods and seems like even folks who make "traditionally forged" tools use epoxy in their attachment process. Can't see it so it doesn't exist right?? .. Ferruled handles are SO cheap on line that I probably will go that way. The only other route I would go would be to use dry maple branches from my place that are already the right diameter. I'm not going to start making handles on a lathe...couldn't even START to compete with store bought ones... I think I'll probably also chisel in a few burrs on the shafts to discourage loosening... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted June 11, 2012 Share Posted June 11, 2012 There's a smithing museum in Germany that has a video of a smith forging a hoe---from what looks like 1.5 to 2" sq stock using a drop hammer and a powerhammer---all water powered by the way. even the luft hammer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Turley Posted June 13, 2012 Share Posted June 13, 2012 Slightly off topic. A wonderful book on toolsmithing is "The 20th Century Toolsmith and Steelworker" by H. Holford, 1912, Frederick Drake, Chicago. All sorts of tools are covered with the exception of garden tools. All edge tools are going to be high carbon steel, not alloys. Your online bookfinders may be able to locate a copy. Holford doesn't talk much about handles, but dang! The line drawings, dimensions, and tempering data are really worthwhile. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric sprado Posted June 19, 2012 Author Share Posted June 19, 2012 Frank: Thanks for referring the book. I found one online that is a two-in-one book " American Blacksmith and Twentieth Century Toolsmith and Steelworker" by Holstrom and Holford.. Apparently Holstrum wrote his "American Blacksmithing" and combined it with Holford's book.Odd! There are a number of them on AbeBooks from just a couple of bucks to around forty dollars depending on age and condition. Thanks again, Eric Sprado Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Turley Posted June 20, 2012 Share Posted June 20, 2012 I think the 2 books were combined by a publisher long after the two ol' boys were laid to rest. Holmstrom's book is a little scattered and not very well written. Holford's toolsmithing has "packing" edge tools in it, which nowadays is considered hogwash, but otherwise, it has really helped me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfootnampa Posted June 20, 2012 Share Posted June 20, 2012 I am making branch handles here and I like them! Much more efficient and attractive than riven handles (which are worlds better than factory handles). Maple is NOT a favorite though. Because of it's brittleness I would likely only use maple for short handles that will not flex a lot. I don't like it for handles for hammers that get kind of extreme use either (like forging hammers). Pecan, hickory, most oaks, locust, osage orange, ash, elm, hackberry, are all very good. Mulberry is pretty good. Springy tough woods are good soft or brittle woods not so much. You might consider coppicing some wood for handle stock as I like sapling stock better than branch wood for longer straighter handles... here I have enough natural saplings to supply me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Seelye Posted June 20, 2012 Share Posted June 20, 2012 If you have questions about wooden handles these guys can answer them for you. Just so you know scoll down the page to view thier products. Neat web page all sorts of handles.http://www.househandle.com/ Larry Larry, This is cool site. I can't believe I hadn't seen it before. Thanks for posting it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.