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I Forge Iron

The other anvil consideration for the newb...


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I still have to go look at the anvil from my first thread later this week:

http://www.iforgeiro...k-for-purchase/

Decent anvils are proving to be tough to find for a beginner that doesn't know any contacts in this field...

But I came across another with pics below. They claim Peter Wright with the markings 1-0-20, which I figure to be 132#?

Is there something decent that could be under the neglected surfaces?
Or don't even bother looking at something like this?

post-25745-0-52560500-1338828987_thumb.j

post-25745-0-74815100-1338829127_thumb.j

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That depends on where you are, here it would be a pretty good deal. Most parts of the US it would only be a price. From what I see on this forum I would think in the UK it would be way over priced. If it were my anvil I would just use it and soon the top would be nice and shiny and the sides would still be rusty. If you wire brush it wear a respriator.

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Since I have an hour's drive to go see it, I told him I would have a hard time paying $400 with pics I see.
I didn't want to waste his time if he was set on his price.
He says he's already turned down $225 from someone, and says he's firm at $275.

All I have at home is a 1" hardened sphere for a 'ball bearing'. Would you get a decent rebound reading with the rust?

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no, but take a ballpeen hammer and see if a "normal" blow leaves a dent. If not it probably hasn't been un-tempered. That anvil should ring as well. If it doesn't then there is the possibility of a hidden crack or face delamination. (Not all anvils ring; but the ones that do should when tested!)

BTW you seem to be confusing the rust and dust with "condition" when it's more like looking at a car that is dusty with bug splatters on it's windshield. What you want to look for is evidence of a crash or the state of the motor and transmission---not if it needs a car wash!

As for price that seems high where I am at and very high indeed! where I used to live at. Whey you are at I haven't a clue and so can't help you with what anvils in your area go for.

Remember that *cash* in your hand can sway a seller. $2 a pound is generally a decent deal for a good brand anvil in that quite good shape most places in the USA.

clean with a wire brush on an angle grinder WEAR PPE!!!

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Went and look at the anvil after work today. The person selling it said it had been sitting in a barn for a very very long time, hence its condition. Even had pigeon crap on it. It was indeed a PW anvil, but the owner misread the weight stamping on the side.

He had told me earlier 1-0-20 as a stamping, but in actuality it was 1-1-20 or 160 pounds . Had a nice ring on the side when tapped with my hammer. Without clearing any rust or dirt off, I tried my 1 inch hardened sphere bounce test.

Even through the crap on top I still got about 60% to 70% bounce in most places. I plunked down $250 cash as my only offer, and I'm the proud new owner of a very dirty, 160# Peter Wright anvil. My first anvil. :)

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Good deal? No. That's a great deal!! I don't see any issues through the rust and crud, and that price just can't be beat. You've snagged an anvil that's plenty large enough for the biggest projects you're ever likely to work on, and you'll be able to pass it down to your grandkids.

I'm very happy for you.

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Well done, good deal and good dickering technique. A little rust on the sides don't mean a thing and the face will clean up with use. If you must, go ahead and brush it, I wouldn't but that's me, I'm kind of lazy when I can.

Frosty The Lucky.

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  • 3 weeks later...

So I have been told....any PW's after 1910 Had to haver England stamped on them. So it's definetely pre 1910. Also I have been told that pre 1880 they were one piece. No welded face. So if it has a welded face it's 1880-1910. No welded face pre 1880. I may be wrong on some of this so.....No matter. That is great looking anvil. Hammer proudly you got a great deal!

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I think you are backwards on the welded face part as anvils tended to go from many parts down to few ones as you get closer to "modern" times---so they started with the face composed of several slabs forge welded on, then to a single slab, then to the top half of the anvil being a single piece.

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