David Gaddis Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 Many of the books suggest using copper or other suitable covering on the anvil when making piercings with the punches and drifts to protect the tools. What type or grade of copper would you use? How thick would you use when concerned about economics too? Any other suggestions concerning the situation would be appreciated. Would you consider using aluminum? Even being careful I still make contact with the anvil surface way too often. I can imagine how bad it would be if there were students involved. David G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigred1o1 Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 i just have a piece of mild steel that i made into a hardy tool it works fine i am not sure what the steel is but its quite soft and about half an inch thick and works quite well just took the plate and welded some square stock onto it to fit my hardy hole Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VaughnT Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 Yea, a bit of mild steel is all you need. The thicker the better, for longevity's sake, but even a crushed soup can will do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianbrazealblacksmith Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 If you are needing a cutting plate, I'd recommend a mild steel plate like Bigred 1o1 suggested. Copper and aluminum will work but they also suck the heat away more. If you are punching, use other methods than the books say like I have shown you, and there will be no issues of hitting your anvil. Don't believe everything you read, and test the teachings! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VolcanoForge Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 Steel C-channel works well if you can find a piece that is the correct size. I have a piece of 6" that fits like a glove on mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fe-Wood Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 Don't believe everything you read, and test the teachings! Those are words to live by!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Gaddis Posted May 15, 2012 Author Share Posted May 15, 2012 I got tired of resharpening my punches....since my forge is outside it is a bit difficult to really see the black dot sometimes...and sometime I am influenced by other things...and the smarting fluid is not working sooo well either. Thanks Brian...others David G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bentiron1946 Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 Gosh, copper is so expensive for that purpose! Beside a mild steel saddle would work just about as well and much cheaper. I would suggest that you get some square stock the size of your hardy hole and weld it to the underside of a piece of mild steel the same size as the face of your anvil, a 1/2" thick piece would be sufficient for the task. Copper, WOW! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 I've know people to use almost any "soft" metal: mild steel, copper, Al, (with Cu and Al mainly for cold work) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pkrankow Posted May 15, 2012 Share Posted May 15, 2012 1/8 inch mild is all I have been using... Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macbruce Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 I use copper and a steel plate. The copper doesn't get used for punching or cutting, rather for backing up things that I'm hammering on with a soft hammer and don't want to mar them (such as flutes). Mild steel works best for cutting and punching. Mine is a 1/4'' plate with a rod welded to the bottom that fits my pritchel hole and can swing out of the way if need be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bajajoaquin Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 Mine is a 1/4'' plate with a rod welded to the bottom that fits my pritchel hole and can swing out of the way if need be. That there is a good idea. I'm gonna steal me that one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 Mine is 1/4" plate with one end forged down to fit my hardy---so it doesn't swing away when I'm working at an angle to the surface. When one side gets too chewed up, I heat it in the forge and bend the hardy stem over to use the other side. When both are too chewed up it goes into the "scrap for the scrappers pile" and I make another Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tzonoqua Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 i've got a bolster plate (i think that is the right term) i've made for punching, but i just initially punch on the anvil, never really seen the need to have something in between as i never go completely through. I use the bolster plate to punch right though so that the holes are supported, the plate is a section of 12mm x 75 flat, about 20 cm long with different sized holes drilled into it, welded to a bit of square pipe that sits in the hardy hole. i can use it so that it lies along my anvil and i can use my hold down chain over it and the piece as well, quite handy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfootnampa Posted May 16, 2012 Share Posted May 16, 2012 I use a short chunk of lintel angle, just very large angle iron with one side wider than the other. It is about 3/16" or 1/4" thick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanielC Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 I apologize for reviving an old topic, I just did not feel this required a new thread. Made a bolster/cutting plate for my anvil recently. It is 1/4" mild steel plate I had (Have tons of it). It is currently being tied down with some scrap copper I had laying around for quick removal, and tied to some RR spikes I will be driving down into my anvil base soon. Currently to make it tighter, I just drive the spikes in a wee little bit. The plate literally does not move or bounce. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Gaddis Posted June 20, 2013 Author Share Posted June 20, 2013 I have now learned that springs and s hooks do a nice job holding the plate from jumping all over. Carry on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan C Posted June 20, 2013 Share Posted June 20, 2013 DanielC, it's a good thread to resurrect, I like your solution. I have large eyebolts on my anvil mount and could do as David suggests with springs & S hooks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigred1o1 Posted June 21, 2013 Share Posted June 21, 2013 (edited) junkpost Edited June 21, 2013 by Bigred1o1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Archerdan Posted June 22, 2013 Share Posted June 22, 2013 I use copper and a steel plate. The copper doesn't get used for punching or cutting, rather for backing up things that I'm hammering on with a soft hammer and don't want to mar them (such as flutes). Mild steel works best for cutting and punching. Mine is a 1/4'' plate with a rod welded to the bottom that fits my pritchel hole and can swing out of the way if need be. Nice anvil. I can get a soft high copper brass as scrap from embossing die plates sometimes. about 3/16" thick. If their is a book bindery in your area that does hard cover books, see if you can get some of their discarded die plates. (I also use them for knife bolsters and finger guards) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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